Which Model?

I know that adding preload on coilovers is said to stiffen them up. I'm not sure otherwise.

 

I think a cheap spacer lift would do the job as well. My 2021 TRD ORP no kdss buddy did Ready lift spacer lift and it made it nicer. I can't be 100% sure for KDSS because my TRD ORP KDSS buddy still keeps stock. Couldn't convince him to lift yet. I need to try harder. LoL.

 

Actually, the headlights in the 2010-2013 models work great, as they are large reflector low beams instead of the squinty little halogen projectors we got from 14-20.

H9 halogen bulb sorts out the newer headlights anyway, and they're just as cheap as stock H11.

OP, the one consideration that others may not have mentioned is ventilated seats in the Limited. It's the one feature I'd consider leaving my Trail Premium for. A pair of breezy coconuts is something I dream about when I'm sweating on the Softex.

 

"Nicer".....in what way? Do you mean a smoother ride or stiffer ride? Increase or decrease in body roll? I really want to keep body roll to a minimum. Any nose dive issues? Please clarify what "nicer" means. Honest, sincere request here.

I am leaning hard at the SR5 and TRD OR/ORP. Wifey would like a moonroof, but it is not a deal breaker. It gonna be MY rig, not hers.

Many thanks to you all for your insight. This has been fun looking at all of the options.

The end game is a rig with heavy duty front and rear bumpers/tire carrier and that will fit 285's.

Front bumper

 

The only 'nicer' feature I can reasonably think of for a spacer lift would be overall looks. I don't see where a ReadyLift would improve the ride or handling in any way.

 

Yep I bet that’s what I’m confusing it with.

 

from what I’ve gathered, there’s two types of spacers. There’s spacers that go on top of the shock, which then push down the whole axle/arms down further. Those don’t cause preload as it sits on top but they still don’t do anything performance wise and can actually limit the upward travel. Then you have spacers that go in between the top hat and coil and those do preload the coil and cause the front end to stiffen up, but also reduce the rebound of the coil as it is preloaded so if you hit a pothole that could be bad news for the lower shock mount.

again, just what I’ve gathered and what my understanding. But always do your own research before doing anything and come to our own conclusion because I am not an expert!

 

Welcome! How is your head after all that info overload? Good stuff though.

 

The Readylift spacer makes the ride slightly stiff from stock. It wasn't too much. Again it's for the looks. Off road it will reduce the flex / wheel travel.

 

Myself I chose the off road premium.

My primary purpose is for fishing and pulling my boat. I had an old explorer previously. I started looking at Limited model. It drove great but then all I saw had third row seats and I didn’t like that. It’s available without though

Then I read about Limited and Xreas suspension costing big $$$ to fix. I drove the ORP and just liked the look.

The ORP also had manual lever to put into 4WD. For me that seemed like less stuff to break. So I am not your typical off road guy but liked the ORP.

After deciding what I wanted I realized there is a shortage of them with Covid. So keep this in mind if you want something for the summer.

 

It doesn't hurt (much). I was having trouble keeping all the info from other websites sorted out. You guys have helped a bunch. I have tentatively decided to get an SR5 and put a Bilsteins or Dobinsons lift on it. Of course if I can find a TRD OR/ORP for similar money/mileage I would get one of those, and still do a lift. Seems they are within $2000, used, of the SR5. May be money well spent, may be wasted money. I need to do some shopping/test driving to really be sure what I want. It is all guess work right now. Until I actually drive a 4R, I am grasping at straws.

This will probably the last vehicle I ever buy. I keep 'em til the wheels fall off.

 

That's not true. It's not like KDSS. You won't get any lights on dash. You can simply replace with any regular suspension. I have removed mine when mine was brand new for the lift.

 

I did the H9 conversion on my 2020 and it certainly is an improvement, but I don't want the OP to be mislead into thinking it's just as good as the new OEM LEDs. These new units appear to cast a much wider and brighter light, with very good distance. The halogen projectors like mine are still very poor off to the side, and not all that impressive straight ahead, even with the H9s. Plus, the LEDs should last for many, many, many years -- no halogen bulb will, and the H9s will last signif less than the stock H11s. A bulb burning out at an inopportune time is not a non issue in my book.

For this reason and others, I wouldn't rule out a brand new SR5 if I had about 40K to work with.

PS -- I don't have personal experience with the older reflector based halogens on the pre-2014 4Runner, but based on other cars I've had I agree that halogen projectors are a step backwards. They seem to have been designed primarily to prevent subjecting other drivers to glare, not to enhance downroad visibility for the driver of the vehicle itself.

 

I think the key distinction here is the cost of a new XREAS system. Yes, it's important to note that XREAS can be replaced with a traditional set of shocks with no problem and no extra expense. But replacing an XREAS system with a new XREAS system -- that seems crazy expensive.

I love XREAS myself -- it's amazingly good at preventing body roll and brake dive -- and based on posts on this forum it actually tends to last about as long as most traditional shocks. The important point is that one shouldn't buy it thinking it will be affordable to replace with another XREAS system when it ultimately does leak. IDK why it's so damn expensive -- it's not that complicated --- but it just is.

 

Single minded thanks for that post well said. Your thoughts are what I should have tried to convey more clearly.

 

This is true, the new OEM LEDs are a marked improvement over the halogen projectors from 14-20. Just want to make sure that OP doesn't also fall into the trap of sticking Chinesium LED or HID bulbs into the halogen units. H9 is the way to go. I usually have a spare set on hand, and they only cost $9 from any auto parts store across the country anyway.

 

Totally.

 

I drive a 2018 SR5 (purchased new), Readylift SST spacer lift with 285 70-17 Ridge Grapplers. I off-road about twice a month on desert trails. Zero issues with the tires or lift after 16,000 miles so far. No nose dive, but I plan my stops rather than jumping on the brakes at the last moment.

This may sound silly but I chose the SR5 over the Off-Road only because I didn't care for the front/rear bumper overlays, fake hood scoop and the rims.

Having said that, the off-road rims are probably the best choice for OEM. Also I would have liked to have the rear locker, but considering I drove a 97 Tacoma LX 4x4 off-road with no rear locker or traction aids for 21 years and never had a traction issue, I figured I wouldn't miss what I never had. I choose conservative lines while off-road.

Best wishes with your selection, they are all good.

 

I thought I was the only one in this forum who has experience with Readylift..

 

No, there's at least two of us willing to come out of the spacer lift closet.

 

Will a rear locker be useful in the mud? I have limited experience, and my '96 Silverado hasn't ever let me down the handful of times I played in the mud. But I think a 4R will go places I wouldn't dream of taking a pick-up.

 

The locker is definitely a great tool. But, Toyota only recommends using the locker below 5 MPH, which wouldn't help in mud.

I think being 4HI, with traction control off and A-trac on is the best setting for mud. That, and good tires, should be all you need.

 

The truck may be going 5 mph, but the speedo is indicating otherwise.

Anyway, I do not need the locker.

 

There are options for aftermarket lockers as well, so you can always change your mind.

 

I think Limited's are great, but not for you. Why get lower hanging rockers when you want a "mudder?" Further, I think that a TRD fits your uses, again, because wouldn't a rear locker go a long way in the mud? (EDIT: I see you disagree. Right on.) Finally, while I'm sure the center locker is good in the Limited, I have no doubts that my non-Limited drive-train is stronger. Overkill for me? Maybe. Definitely overkill for most, which is why I think the Limted's are awesome for most. But I think you would appreciate the "old school" drive-train found in the SR5/TRD, like me.

KDSS basically means stiffer sways (which means less body roll) coupled to an articulating sway bar mount, which allows for more-than-non-KDSS articulation AND stiffer sway bars. It's a best of both worlds kinda thing.. but of course with greater complexity so that could affect reliability, simplicity, and considerations when modifying. I don't think KDSS is super common, so it might be hard to find in the used market. If one was dead-set on KDSS used, it could make things much harder.

I think you have this mixed up a little bit. It's the top-hat spacers, aka spacers that sit in between the body and shock/spring assembly, that greatly enhance the chance of shock failure or breakage at the lower mount. Because the spacer moves the entire assembly down, the factory bump stops become arbitrary at a point. At that point, one could fully compress the entire assembly to the point where the spring hits itself and "bottoms out" before the bump stops come into play. If this happens, expect major things to break - usually the lower shock mount.

The collar spacers, as has been said, effectively just move the spring upward with relation to the shock. It's not a lot different than changing to a longer spring would be. However, if you use too large a collar spacer (or too long a spring), you might end up topping out the shock a lot, which is bad for it. And since the shock can only extend so much, eventually you will be effectively "pre-loading" the spring as you get to the shock's limit. At a point, since pushing that spring up cannot raise the truck anymore (shock topped out), things are again, bad.

Long story short - spacers in each location have their place. In small doses, they can address lean, add tiny bits of lift for the OCD, add tiny bits of lift for the shallow-pocketed, or add tiny bits of lift to setups in which other modifications would be very costly (such as the TRD Pro setup). The issue with spacers is when people rely on them solely for large lifts on a budget.

 

I'd just get the Off-Road, leave it stock except some better tires and call it a day.

It's probably the best bang for the buck. That way you have all the features just in case.

I'm satisfied with my SR5, but if I had a do over, that's probably what I'd do.

 

El oh fucking El

 

I think the Off-Road Premium is the best choice!

 

After perusing Car Gurus, just to get an idea of what kind of money is involved, I think the TRD/Off-Road Premium is my best choice, too.

The big issue for me, I gotta have killer tunes, and the ORP comes with the upgraded stereo. If it's the same/similar that comes in a 2016 RAV4 Limited, (wife's ride) I will not be happy. It sounds great, it's just is not loud enough.

I can live without a moonroof, or the better suspension on the ORP, which would see minimal use anyway ( though it will come in handy at some point. ) Seat coverings are of no value to me. They will get covered up anyway. (But living in Wis. heated seats would be really nice.)

If I have to upgrade the tunes I will need $1000-1500. If I need to get speakers, add another $750-$1000.

I would rather have a plain jane SR5 with a killer stereo than a TRD/ORP with an O.K. stereo.

Of course, a TRD/ORP with piss-off-the-neighbers-tunes is the goal.

 

Something to keep in mind about KDSS: if you plan on spinning your wheels in mud often, make sure you hose off the accumulator under the driver rocker. The KDSS skid will hold mud in there otherwise. The only two KDSS failures I've seen on the forums were from folks who left mud in there for years and it corroded.

I've only went "mudding" once. Lots of fun but the buckets of quarters I needed at the powerwash (and laying under the truck with my rain gear on) was enough for me. I drive around the puddles now