What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

What is the reason for the F’d up skid plate bolts you guys seem to be finding? Is it happening because it’s difficult to install with just one guy at the dealer?

 

Upgrade the lift struts?

 

One of the best mods i have ever done, makes dropping the skid almost fun. The reason for the f'ed up bolts is laziness and impact guns.

 

Yes,

But the pic was the added USB ports/replacing the cigarette... I mean the 12v power outlet.

 

Stock skid plates are not difficult to install, and I take mine off all the time. There is nothing magical about the bolts, threads, or skidplates. But, a little bit of time is necessary to do it right.

My guess is that the f’ups are because the person doing the work is

A) not quite familiar with “concept” of cross-threading and over-tightening bolts.

Or

B) Doesn't take the time to do it right. Either because it really exceeds the time they are allotted to do it right, they personally don’t care, or they think the owner won’t care or ever know (probably most owners dont actually care, in reality).

 

Removed rear sway bar. With the eibach shocks and dobs coils you can barely tell i removed it. The ride is so much smoother and there's just a hint of a little extra body roll. But still is more stable then it was with the oem suspension.

 

New shoes, General Grabber ATX in 265 E Load. I have white letters inside but might reverse it on the next rotation. So far doesnt feel too different or heavy, similar to stock but maybe a little more grip. I'll have to see how they are at highway speeds. Discount Tire set the PSI to 35 psi, this seems like a good pressure based on what I've read on the forum? I like how AT tires, even at stock size, just changes the 4Rs looks compared to the stock tires.

 

^^^ looks great with the black sidewalls out

 

Driving around on a beautiful Saturday morning in the mountains

 

DAD LIFE

 

You're lucky, I had to use a airtight pelican case for little guy.

 

Don’t need to…yet. The stuff in the small bags isn’t too heavy, but I can tell the struts won’t hold a lot more.

 

Replaced the TRD Shift Knob with a FJ Cruiser Knob to match the Manual Transfer Case Shift Knob.

 

Anyone have tips to avoid this? I think next time I'm going to thread the skid plate bolt back in so oil doesn't end up inside the bracket. At least this area won't rust away on me.

 

Don't recall having this issue, but on my other trucks it was way worse. Just wrap it with paper towels if all the oil doesn't drain from the filter prior to removing it.

 

I haven't had that happen. I don't remove the bottom plug on the housing I unscrew the housing like it is a regular filter and it drips straight down into the pan.

 

Put a short hose on the plug that comes with the filter. But honestly, I'd be more concerned about the rust.

 

Empty out the oil first using the plastic plug. It can take a while to fully drain out, but then there isnt all that much that come out

 

Yeah it seems some things are rusting faster than they did on my Tacoma.

That little plastic plug doesn't seem to drain it all. A lot doesn't come out, but enough to drip all over that bracket.

 

Shopify is a website development and shopping cart system. One of the biggest in the world. cuphero uses shopify for its website and money management. Cuphero is responsible for everything. Order, shipping, billing, funding.

Depending on what shipping software they use and which courier they use (in your case, UPS) you will get your tracking number after the courier scans it into their system and then sends you an email with tracking info. Two things to know - UPS is in the midst of a huge crisis. The company I work for ships roughly 100-140 consumer packages per day via UPS. We ship roughly 40-60 trailers per week. UPS is a mess. We have roughly 4-5% of our consumer packages lost or rerouted weekly. More often than not, their tracking system fails the package on the consumer end, but still winds up on your door step.

Amazon in your case has nothing to do with the transaction. Its the shipping relationship they have with USPS and UPS both, but not Fed Ex or DHL. I often ahve Amazon packages show up in my city (300k people), then tracking shows dropped to USPS and USPS delivers my package. Amazon does not ahve enough planes or trucks to do everything, so they pay USPS and UPS to deliver even Prime packages for them.

 

Under the hood near the brake res is the most logical and out of the way location. Watch this video on how they also added the rear diff locker (if you have one) to their system as it is vented as well.

https://youtu.be/1MFW8YK9dx0

 

I know you already bought it, for those that want to save a few bucks. About $25 total. 2 hose clamps, and 6ft of hose zip tied to gas fill inside the fender.

 

Both my (TRD ORP & Pro) diff breather relocations were done by Toytec and no clue where they are routed to. I don't see anything in gas filler area as well. The lines seems to go up along with evap lines. I also see a T connection. No idea if that has something to do with elocker? They were also saying its better to have the stock open/close valve re-routed up and away vs a open filter type of thing in engine bay area. Anyone has better explanation what they have done to mine? (I have no clue)

 

The ARB is a one way valve but it also opens if there is too much back pressure (like when the diff cools down overnight and pressures change internally) Some run it to the gas cap area, but only if they are using a small one way valve or just a filter. The ARB unit wont fit very neatly in the filler area. I run mine from:

Rear diff T to locker (like the video) run line across to drivers side, along the inside drivers frame rail, under the TRD skid plate, T to the front diff, up to the area around the brake res. I mounted mine to an existing bolt next to the res on the firewall. Since it is a one way valve, chances of getting any water in is pretty slim. The pics showing your routing look great.

Here is a bracket I almost bought but it wasn't in stock. Easy to make one from bar stock at Home Depot, but I went to the other side of the engine bay. Also, article showing a simple 1-way valve in the gas filler area. Not a fan of those valves. They get dirty and can stick open much easier than the ARB diaphragm setup.

https://adventuretaco.com/im-too-late-rear-diff-breather-mod-on-3rd-gen-4runner/

 

Thanks for the input. All is well, the package showed up Saturday, delivered by USPS. It's just that the tracking was showing no real progress until it hit the USPS hub in Albuquerque. I just got too impatient.

I deal with UPS and have for the last 37 years in my job, so I know how they've declined. Their tracking is pretty much a joke these days, basically saying on the way, then out for delivery, with next to no information in between.

 

The reason is exactly why you said. Amazon got involved and they do not share tracking. USPS does however, so if USPS gets involved, say it goes on one of their trailers, it will update, but usually a day later.

 

Can't tell you exactly where Toytec ran it, they could've ran it anywhere. Yes, my guess the T connector is for your locker, I believe it has a breather but a bit smaller hose. You'll have to follow the hoses to really find out where they mounted it. If you can't follow it, disconnect it from the differential blow air in the hose with a compressor, you'll find it. I'm guessing toytec mounted it pretty high and probably don't have to worry about getting any water. If you run in high water, change the oil, if no water,, you're good.. ran mine behind the gas fill. Out of sight out of mind. I've gone in 2ft of water before doing this mod and no water. Have fun with your 4runner and leave the worries behind.

 

Where do you live that your 19 looks like that?

 

New England

 

East coast rust, down here in pa we are also in the rust/salt area