What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

Just bought her last week after having to sell my beloved taco. This is no doubt a more practical vehicle for my little dude due in a couple months.

3 inch level with some brand new BFG’s. Sitting pretty and very much in love with the red.

 

Yes, those are what I'm talking about. Issue is, there are junk ones out there that don't fit tightly. Other issue is, you're piggybacking off a circuit and you have no idea what the wire can handle. Say you remove a 10A fuse, install this with 2 10 amp fuses. Can the wire on the other end handle a 20 amp load? Maybe, maybe not. I'm a firm believer in going directly to the battery, using a relay triggered a switch source, and done. Maybe not the easiest or fast way but by far the safest way.

 

A question for cutjob, did you pull the rear bumper completely off to remove the valance prior to paint?

 

^this, mine ended up destroying the fuse block section. Cost ~$110 to replace that module and left the runner stranded until I soldered a jumper as a temp

 

What specifically happened?

 

Alright that is all I need to hear. Screw it, maybe I will just tap juice from battery. My rig is brand new. I’m not into burning stuff up right now.

 

Not sure how it could. It's literally a fuse, and it's only inline to power (there's no ground to short to). Even if it somehow shorted, the fuse would pop. The only reasonable way to have an add-a-fuse "ruin" a fuse block would be to override the 10A fuse with a larger amperage fuse and run a high amp draw accessory through it, then it's conceivable that the factory wiring couldn't handle the current (as you, or maybe someone else mentioned a page or so back) and the heat would cause an issue / fire / melting / what have you. That would fall solidly on 'user error' and not a fault of the component.

I don't have stock or anything in add-a-fuse but they are useful and have always served me well. I have undid some fucked up installs from other people in which the add-a-fuse was a component of said fuckery, but that was always a user error issue rooted in a lack of understanding of what they were doing... like wiring a VHF radio that draws 20amps on transmit to an add-a-fuse with a 25A fuse shoved in a spot designed for like a 5 amp fuse... If someone has an "electrical issue" in a car from some kind of aftermarket accessory install, you can almost guarantee it's not an equipment defect.

Edit, having said that, I also would not use one for more than a low amp draw... best example would be a relay trigger which draws like 1/4 amp, or a 12VDC socket fused at 2-5 amps for cell phones, GPS, etc., or my favorite mod the Littelite map light which draws like 1-2 amps... and then fuse it at the lowest amp fuse that will work for your application (125% of max amerage).

 

Well, I ordered myself my first expensive bit of kit. I am now waiting for my set of sliders. I ordered the Cali Raised trail version (20 deg angle with no step plate). I’m commited now lol.

 

I love mine

 

C

Cool!!! Are those the 20 degree version as well? I know they are not a step, but are your toes or side of your foot able to get a little bit of purchase on them for getting in and out?

 

This is great advice. Make sure you understand the fuse tap circuitry. If you insert it the wrong way into the fuse block your additional circuit load could actually have no fuse protection in the circuit.

 

Yes and the front as well.

 

And people ask me why I buy Toyota new. It's like the more miles it has, the more expensive it is.

 

I know why and how this works, but I know enough to get that when I do electrical add-ons for my 4Runner that I'm going to add in a second fuse/relay box. Those fuse taps look like nothing but trouble even for people who know what they're doing. Wrong way and KABOOM! I saw that second box setup on that Wanderlost video where the guy said he was so happy to have done it, and it looks like such a better solution. More expensive and takes up more space, sure, but way safer.

 

Yes, I have the 20 degree version. There is enough space to use as a “step” if needed.
I have an Ironman4x4 3” lift as well and no one including my 2 kids have any issue getting in and out.

 

Hmmmm...seems like you got my future truck.... which ironman setup do you have? Have you reviewed it yet?

btw, thx for the pics!

 

Ironman foam cell stage 2, 3” lift. I have not reviewed. I have KDSS and I was hoping for more lift in the front but overall I’m happy.

 

Seriously, who can even afford a used toyota nowadays

 

I keep going back to their website and find I get angry when the price is so reasonable and then you add 30% for powder coating and shipping...

Anyway, did you get yours powder coated and, if so, how has it held up?

Im starting to wonder how hard it might be to rhino coat/line-x it myself....

 

Yes, I got mine powder coated, holding up fine so far. I ordered my roof rack with scene lights from them at the same time and was under a 15% off promo for my order.

 

Does anyone know off the top of their head if a set of front extended brake lines for long travel will work on the rear as a bandaid until my actual rear long travel brake lines arrive? They appear to have the same attachment points. Basically the situation is I am installing dobinsons 701’s and I completely goofed and didn’t order my brake lines. A buddy has a set that he bought as backups for his long travel build and said I could use them but I wanted to see if anyone knew they could work until my metal tech ones comes in.

I know I could run the 701’s until the others show up with stock lines but we have a couple trails we were going to hit and camp this weekend and I’d rather play it safe vs tearing a brake line

 

With a standard tap the cover would not close and did not want to melt the cover to fit. Ordered a correctly sized mini tap for the ing slot and it worked fine. Just used an inline fuse. I removed the mini tap and it pulled the fuse box female portion right out of the fuse block. Taps come with a wire soldered inside and wire sticks out the top
Works great if you don’t remove them.
Pics are the tap and replacement part

 

Thanks...how well do these also work as steps?

 

Got the shipping notice for my Uptop Overland Bravo, excited and relieved it will arrive in time to install before our trip. Also sounds like the new wheels will be shipping on time

 

There is enough space to use as a “step” if needed.

 

Did you...? On your 4r?...

 

I scored a LFD 3/4 roof rack from CL for $250.
I will need to take it back off and touch up the paint at some point,but now I have a rack!