What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

Damn.. they have a LR PRO on the lot..

 

I’m liking that tarp

 

seatbelt cutter and glass breaker but... now that you mention it...

 

Thanks for the tip. Appreciated lots.

 

Sorry if you already know about these...
I used these to rewire my trailer this spring. I got mine from a local AA Wheel & Truck Supply. I needed some extras after close so I went to Menards & theirs were horrible. Buy a good crimper & a lighter will make a great sealed connection. My $0.02
Good luck,
Ryan.

 

They will last 5-7 years in my experience. Water & salt will find their way in. A cheap light bar I used on my work truck had a weatherpac connection and salt got into it & fried a wire & then the fuse. Just my experience.
Ryan.

 

Why are you not a fan of them?
Ryan

 

I originally ran my raptor light wires through the firewall and tapped into the TAIL fuse. They would only turn on when the tail lights were on, so not a true switch but more control than anytime the vehicle was on. I recently added some ditch lights and decided to clean up all my wiring with a switch panel. Just got the cheap one from auxbeam and wired the raptor lights to that...now they have a switch.

 

Not arguing with any other methods people use. This is how my connections came out. After all were crimped & shrunk I wrapped the 5 wire main strand in electrical tape & made it as clean as possible.
I am not an electrician & I am still learning but I believe this is a 10+ year rewire. The stupid crimp wire connections are horrible.

The first time I rewired the trailer I bought a cheap kit from the parts store & they lasted for 5+ years. This time I bought proper 25' of 5 wire that's sheathed. & wired in extra lights for better visibility & safety. The two on the very rear are new.
We all have our own ways & comfort levels,
Ryan

 

You referring to these guys?

I've used them a lot since they came out years ago (for the larger ATO fuses) and have done probably... jeesh, I don't even know... 20 (?) installs in my own vehicles and for friends using the mini-ATO style with exactly zero problems. They are a very simple solution and make for a clean install. Currently my wife's 4Runner has 2 in use, for an extra power outlet and a map light, and the relay for her LED. My 4R has one, for a map light.

 

I love Grainger but $33 each! I have used those for interior fuse taps but I could see it working inside the fuse box under the hood as well.
We are talking about two different things! Glad we can talk & not argue. It seems rare.
I went from this as my wiring (cheap auto parts set with lights)...
To this...

No connection attached yet.
I have also never soldered anything. I have a welder & can weld but have never soldered before. Just a comfort level I guess.
Anyway, sorry to take up room for our little side discussion.
Ryan

 

Had to squeeze the tank in the messy garage we just moved to. Storms rollin’ in

 

thinking it all over. I’m going to check over all of my terminations, as I was anyway, chances are that I screwed one up somewhere.

 

Just bought her last week after having to sell my beloved taco. This is no doubt a more practical vehicle for my little dude due in a couple months.

3 inch level with some brand new BFG’s. Sitting pretty and very much in love with the red.

 

Yes, those are what I'm talking about. Issue is, there are junk ones out there that don't fit tightly. Other issue is, you're piggybacking off a circuit and you have no idea what the wire can handle. Say you remove a 10A fuse, install this with 2 10 amp fuses. Can the wire on the other end handle a 20 amp load? Maybe, maybe not. I'm a firm believer in going directly to the battery, using a relay triggered a switch source, and done. Maybe not the easiest or fast way but by far the safest way.

 

A question for cutjob, did you pull the rear bumper completely off to remove the valance prior to paint?

 

^this, mine ended up destroying the fuse block section. Cost ~$110 to replace that module and left the runner stranded until I soldered a jumper as a temp

 

What specifically happened?

 

Alright that is all I need to hear. Screw it, maybe I will just tap juice from battery. My rig is brand new. I’m not into burning stuff up right now.

 

Not sure how it could. It's literally a fuse, and it's only inline to power (there's no ground to short to). Even if it somehow shorted, the fuse would pop. The only reasonable way to have an add-a-fuse "ruin" a fuse block would be to override the 10A fuse with a larger amperage fuse and run a high amp draw accessory through it, then it's conceivable that the factory wiring couldn't handle the current (as you, or maybe someone else mentioned a page or so back) and the heat would cause an issue / fire / melting / what have you. That would fall solidly on 'user error' and not a fault of the component.

I don't have stock or anything in add-a-fuse but they are useful and have always served me well. I have undid some fucked up installs from other people in which the add-a-fuse was a component of said fuckery, but that was always a user error issue rooted in a lack of understanding of what they were doing... like wiring a VHF radio that draws 20amps on transmit to an add-a-fuse with a 25A fuse shoved in a spot designed for like a 5 amp fuse... If someone has an "electrical issue" in a car from some kind of aftermarket accessory install, you can almost guarantee it's not an equipment defect.

Edit, having said that, I also would not use one for more than a low amp draw... best example would be a relay trigger which draws like 1/4 amp, or a 12VDC socket fused at 2-5 amps for cell phones, GPS, etc., or my favorite mod the Littelite map light which draws like 1-2 amps... and then fuse it at the lowest amp fuse that will work for your application (125% of max amerage).

 

Well, I ordered myself my first expensive bit of kit. I am now waiting for my set of sliders. I ordered the Cali Raised trail version (20 deg angle with no step plate). I’m commited now lol.

 

I love mine

 

C

Cool!!! Are those the 20 degree version as well? I know they are not a step, but are your toes or side of your foot able to get a little bit of purchase on them for getting in and out?

 

This is great advice. Make sure you understand the fuse tap circuitry. If you insert it the wrong way into the fuse block your additional circuit load could actually have no fuse protection in the circuit.

 

Yes and the front as well.

 

And people ask me why I buy Toyota new. It's like the more miles it has, the more expensive it is.

 

I know why and how this works, but I know enough to get that when I do electrical add-ons for my 4Runner that I'm going to add in a second fuse/relay box. Those fuse taps look like nothing but trouble even for people who know what they're doing. Wrong way and KABOOM! I saw that second box setup on that Wanderlost video where the guy said he was so happy to have done it, and it looks like such a better solution. More expensive and takes up more space, sure, but way safer.

 

Yes, I have the 20 degree version. There is enough space to use as a “step” if needed.
I have an Ironman4x4 3” lift as well and no one including my 2 kids have any issue getting in and out.

 

Hmmmm...seems like you got my future truck.... which ironman setup do you have? Have you reviewed it yet?

btw, thx for the pics!