What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

Tint done.. ceramic

 

Hope this helps...
Measuring from the radiator...
At the top it is 11.5 inches
At the bottom it is 11 inches

 

Got my Westcott Design rock sliders and M.O.R.E. Skid plates installed today. Then got a hi-jack extreme.

 

Thank you. I got it back to stockish

 

Today i continued with my exterior light “upgrade” (in my opinion these should have come from the factory) on my 2020 4 runner nightshade.
And im glad im almost done
I have successfully upgraded to LED all my cabin interior lights, the front low and DRL/HIGH beams, fog lights.
I have posted threads about those upgrades.
This week i carried on with installing LED lights on my reverse lights and rear turn lights.
Very pleased with the results and man are all the lights so bright now!
My rear turn lights were intended for the front, but in the limited it seems like a tough spot to access so i was due for service and i askes at the dealership to get them exchanged but they said they couldnt because they would have to remove the whole front part? (In the manual it says it can be done by partially undoing the inner fender liner) i said okaaay (im going to have to
Do it later myself) so instead i used those lights in the mean time for the rear. Now the turn lights look awesome.
I will continue later with my mirror flashing lights (changing the stock for smoked sequential ones) and last i will try to replace the front turn lights.
i find that the trucks manual lacks a section on how to do this things on the limited, they consider all 4 runners standard but it isnt. I have had the experience that to change some of the stuff on the limited is quite different than the other models.
I totally recommend the website headlight revolution for getting your lights and the brand that i used. They look great. I took a couple of pictures.

 

Looks good. When they do the back windows, do they remove the old or do they tint over it?

 

The lift kit and tires/wheels were finished up today. The ride quality is great. The alignment is perfect. I thought I might have to do some trimming or move the fender liners but there is NO tire rub AT ALL.

 

Man I really like those skids! …
Aluminum or Steel?

 

Steel on rock sliders, skid plates are aluminum

 

Finally Lifted 2.75in front and 3in in the rear from Freedomoffroadusa.com coilvers and UCA , XD Wheels Omega wrapped around 27570r17 falken wildpeak at3 . Mounted baja rack and ladder 2 weeks ago .

 

The Westcott sliders are TIG welded too. I like my OPOR sliders but if I had to go from scratch I'd pick these.

 

I have the victory 4x4 rack, I experienced no additional noticeable wind noise, but I spent a good part of my life exposed to gunfire and jet engines, and now I am just old so that could be it.

 

I used the KC wire hider

https://www.kchilites.com/universal-wire-hider-kc-6300.html

very happy with it, you can’t notice it unless you look for it.

 

Yeah I was watching videos on YouTube and that is how I heard about them, found out they are local to Arizona, then found out they were cheaper than others and had higher quality. I was sold.

 

They tinted over it... 20% all around so the backs are actually 10%

 

Factory tint can't be removed. It's part of the glass.

 

Well it's coming up on my 2 year anniversary on here and with my 4Runner.

Bought it with 3300 miles on it and last night I finally hit the 15,000 milestone. One thing is for sure I don't have any gas milage complaints....lol

 

Installed Yakima roof rack crossbars in preparations to pick up a CVT rtt that I found a good deal on. I am beyond impressed at how sturdy those are and after evaluating everything some more have decided not to be putting on an aftermarket roof rack after all. Stock rails are plenty strong to support an RTT, it’s the crossbars that are the weak and overly flexible point. Yakima blades attached to the rails provide just the right amount of flex and shock absorption that is actually much better in absorbing shocks and distributing impact (during breaking or sideways rocking) before it is applied to the sheetmetal of the roof itself. They are also beyond the capacity of what will be on top. Most RTTs are 120-160lbs range only.
When you add other stuff on top in addition to the weight of the aftermarket roof rack - we’re looking at static forces probably in excess of 300lbs and imagine what that translates to in dynamic forces while off-roading - violently swaying all that mass side to side. I would not put anything beyond the RTT on the roof while in motion.
Consider that at the end of the day aftermarket roof racks use the same 8 bolts to keep everything attached to the roof as well. Again, racks and mounting brackets being made of steel is actually worse for the mounting points (and your vehicles roof) then it is on the stock rails that provide some flex and as such are able to dampen the forces while in motion. Remember that people with aftermarket roof racks have a tendency to load them up even more - additional gear, fuel, water, etc - and again - everything is held up and is kept in place by the same 8 bolts secured to the vehicle’s sheetmetal on the roof.
Look at your vehicle from the front, or the rear, imagine all that load on the top of the roof, and then imagine going over the rough terrain and vehicle rocking side to side. All those forces are being transferred into the vehicles roof, with no dampening (on aftermarket rails) through the 8 small bolts and into the roof sheetmetal
Now, I know that many won’t care because aftermarket roof racks look cool, and you can add all your awnings, ditch lights, water and fuel canisters etc - but, I wanted any future buyers to consider this too. At the end of the day - I’ll trust Toyota engineers far more than any other aftermarket supplier.
Flame on!

 

Got the windows tinted. Blacked out the chrome lug nuts with ColorLugs.

 

Wow you drive so much

 

Looks nice and much cleaner design than the old Thule square style cross bars … but both companies have come a long way!

 

Got my 23 Zero Walkabout RTT in this week and also put together a contraption to hang it in the garage.

 

In all fairness before covid I drove up to 8k miles a year.

 

I find myself agreeing with you. My Ecotechne rack side rails actually rest on the roof seams for the entire length of the rack, which I think is much more robust than the "floating" racks I see these days. I wonder why more racks don't do this, as I think the distribution of load is much more even than relying on the stock mounting locations like you mention. I guess some do require drilling and installing rivets for additional support, but I steered clear of those racks.

 

haha must be nice! I average 25k a year. Wish I had a beater for commuting

 

Concur. Most aftermarket roof racks rest on the roof on forward sections, too. There are pegs that basically provide weight support. But, again, all of the “no drill” roof racks are still secured by those tiny bolts only. Forward brackets will help support the weight from the top - but they do nothing for side to side sway.

 

wired the AOB switch to wiper heater so it will be lit when lights are on and re-arranged the switches
lights on fogs off

lights/fogs on

 

Topped off my first two improvements with tint today. Installed NFab RS nerf bars just before the holidays.

 

So i made an extra payment for the baby, I want this paid for asap and i am blessed with a job in these crazy times, so might as well keep the dream alive.
As I was drinking a beer, my finger slipped on the keyboard, god knows how(???), and I found myself with an order for the Gobi ladder.....
Strange things are happening.....

 

Replaced all my interior bulbs, license plate lights, reverse bulbs and mirror puddle lights with LEDs. Super cheap and easy to do, but definitely worth it.