What have you done to your 4th Gen 4Runner today?

Only other things I’ve done recently to her is make a basic ‘tool kit’ to keep in the vehicle, and purchased a SDSU Alumni license plate frame. Oh speaking of license plates, ordered and received new ones since the existing ones were all damaged and dirty. As much as I tried cleaning them they stayed dirty. So now I have fresh plates.

 

Replaced the drivers side hvac servo, hoping it fixes my weird noises behind the dash on the drivers side.

 

Squeaking type noises while ac is running? That’s what I’ve got going on currently. Goes away when fan is turned off

 

Not a squeak, I posted something a while back that originally sounded like ‘gurgling’/clicking. It does it randomly, and I had no clue what it was, but a few weeks ago what I think sealed the deal was I was driving with the heater on and all of a sudden the drivers side started blowing out room temp air but the passenger side was still blowing out hot air. I think that’s what that Servo controls.

 

Did my airbag recall and my gas pedal recall got some new floor mats out of the deal

 

Replaced my driver’s side wheel bearing hub assembly. NAPA part lasted 5 years & 84K miles, respectable if unremarkable.

 

Drove her from San Diego to Paso Robles for a night, then Paso to the Sacramento area with the fam. Rolled over 247k on the way up. Coming back down mid week. She takes road trips like a champ!

 

Made it back to San Diego without any issues. I do notice when my AC compressor kicks on it makes a somewhat noticeable difference in power and right when it kicks on it makes almost a shudder with the engine but otherwise runs fine. Could my compressor clutch be seizing up or anything or is that normal?

 

Busy week. Drove from my house in north Georgia to Savannah on business; checked out a couple of trails on the way there; got home today and changed the oil, rotated the tires, and cleaned the cabin & engine air filters.

 

I’m going to say this definitely fixed my issue. Haven’t heard the ‘noise’ behind/under my dash since I did this replacement and no issues with heater/ac separation between driver/passenger sides.

 

The servo you replaced was it on the driver's side or the passenger's side?

 

Back from Sedona, AZ today. Ran great! Got 24 mpg on the last tank on the way home. All 2 lane 65 MPH speed limits. Did Broken Arrow & a couple of lesser known trails. The RCI skid plates work. Hit them a few times. I can't for the life of me figure out how they did this to their Jeep.

 

This one was on my drivers side, which I believe is there to control the dual climate zone in my vehicle. Do 4Runners without dual climate zone even have a drivers side servo?

 

To the best of my knowledge they don't but I could be wrong.
I saw you have a Limited so that's why I asked.

 

Texting and driving. Or drinking.

 

Possible I guess' They had just come down a short series of rock ledges known as "the steps" that have way more potential for problems. Oh well.

 

My guess is they were gong too fast and ran up that high side bank/shoulder on the left/passenger's side and the momentum carried them onto their side.

 

Jeep Owner's My step son has a Rubicon, I don't think he's ever gone out in the snow & I know he's never, ever gone off road. But He's a great man, father/husband & son!!! But still he's a Jeep owner/Blood Penguins fan!! But hey, they're golfing while the Bruins are up 2-1 vs Maple Loafs, eh!He owes me $25 for Bruins finishing higher in Reg. season pts too, he can afford it! Double

 

Covered up that damn blind spot monitoring light, find them so annoying. All vehicles IMO should come with these dome mirrors. I don't rely on electronics for safety.

 

I had a rhythmic ticking/clicking or light knocking in my driver wheel and I found that it is coming from the new brake pads. I found the hole on the brake pad where the pins go through are to big. Why are the holes oval and why is there to much play. I changed the position of the hardware that spreads the brakes apart from the bottom to the top, this has helped quiet the noise, but I still know that the pads are not secured enough. are there thicker pins that I can buy? what can I do.

 

Just bought it a week ago, and this week some parts had arrived so it was time to get stuff done today. Tires arrived at the shop so I got them installed first. Also did an oil change and put in a new air filter.



Everything else was lighting related. Driver's side headlight had condensation issues so I replaced it.



Then onto the interior. I had one side of my LCD for the HVAC controls burned out, so I replaced both bulbs. While I was working on lights, I swapped the map, dome and door lights with LEDs.






Had some LEDs left over so I also upgraded the map and dome lights in the wife's 5th gen.

 

Nicely done! I also did all the interior lights with Diode Dynamics LEDs, makes a big difference.

 

My ABS/master cylinder has been acting up and going bad in the last 2 weeks or so, I had the alarm sounding and a very hard brake pedal, so basically no brakes, it was the electric motor that I'm guessing the brushes are just worn out, for a week or so I could tap on the motor few times and it would start running again and the alarm would stop and I had brakes again but then no amount of tapping would get it going again as of yesterday, drove home from work with no brakes, traffic was light and I have only 2 stop signs on my route home, I used downshifting and then the parking brake to make it home, about a 20 minute rural drive.

2 weeks ago I bit the bullet and ordered a complete OEM ABS/master cylinder assembly, I was only going to do this once and even just to replace the electric motor the complete assembly has to be removed and reinstalled so a new assembly was what I did.

I just finished installing the ABS/master cylinder assembly, so far so good, I only bled the master cylinder at this point and the brakes are pretty good.

It took several minutes to get the alarm to stop, the electric motor on my assembly seems to only run for about 5 seconds then stops for about 5 seconds and then runs again for 5 seconds, this continued for at least 10 cycles before the alarm stopped, I then depressed the pedal about 7 to 8 times and the alarm returned...but only for about 5 to 10 seconds, after that I couldn't get the alarm to trigger even after over 20 depressions of the pedal, I'll report back later as to how many depressions it takes to get the motor to trigger again.

I will at a later date do a full 4 wheel bled and also use my new scanner to bleed the ABS system and post if any improvement over how the brakes work now.

As it has been mentioned on the forum it was straightforward to do the R&R....but I would say it was far from easy getting to the 4 nuts under the dash and I have cuts and scrapes to prove it!!

I did have to remove the screws/bolts/nuts for the fuse block and a couple of brackets to gain better access to the master cylinder nuts, I only lost one nut that fell down between the seat and console apparently never to be seen again, I spend close to an hour trying to find it using a magnet and my arms, but no luck, I did however find all the other numerous items I have dropped down there over the last few years!!

 

Got the OEM Sightline wiper blades I ordered and put them on. Of course now it's not raining and when I had the old, worn out wipers on it poured, lol.

Also upgraded the head unit to a Boss radio so I could use bluetooth, backup camera and also have the option for Android Auto and Apple Car Play.

Need to relocate the USB connectors though. They're just sticking out from behind the cupholders. I'll probably modify one of the blanks near the console as a place for those.

 

Was the backlight on your screen not working, or the yellow arrows on the controls? My LCD display is no longer illuminated, and I’m wondering how deep I’ll have to go to fix it

 

Changed out my 18 year old Dunlop spare tire for a Michelin defender today. The 265/70R17 fit fine in the stock location

 

Not deep at all, you don’t even need to remove anything except the cubby underneath the hvac controls to remove the entire hvac, display module. From there it’s just popping out burnt bulbs and replacing them.

 

I had half the display plus one of the knobs with all the backlights burned out.

Yep, it's dead simple. You'll have to remove one 10mm bolt, pop the panel out, unplug one connector and swap the bulbs. The whole job including uninstalling and reinstalling the piece and reinstalling it can be done in 10-15 minutes at most.

This video is pretty good for a how-to:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KAZX5X7be8

Only thing I would say is that different trims use different bulbs. The controls on Limited models have different features than an SR5, etc., so they can use slightly different bulbs. You can Google to find the right part numbers depending which trim you have.

 

Here's a diagram that shows which bulbs are needed for each model, also includes the bulbs for the bottom 2 buttons that the guy in the video didn't replace.

 

thanks guys, this is too easy, definitely am adding this to the to-do list!