What brand of grease you using

I used a lithium-based NGLI #2 because my UCA's need it as well. I could not get the lock n lube fitting onto the spider zerks no matter how hard I tried- I switched back to a normal push on fitting and it worked fine.

 

I use the same Royal Purple for everything.

Screw having 2 grease guns.

I hate having one.

 

I just bought one last weekend, and I already want a different one. But, just one.

 

I expect the majority of owners don't grease the driveshafts at all, the same way they don't engage the parking brake or check tire pressures regularly

Tacoma driveshafts progressively became non-greaseable about half a decade ago. The U-joints in non-greaseable driveshafts are mechanically stronger, without grease channels to weaken them. They do have a finite life, but may well last longer than greasable U-joints if the owners don't grease them.

 

I'll plead guilty about the driveshaft. I've had it greased maybe twice in 102xxx miles up to last weekend. I had no clue with the slip yoke. I was waiting for grease to start coming out somewhere, but instead I noticed the drive shaft started growing. . Hoping I didn't overgrease it.

I use the parking brake regularly, and I usually check my tire pressure pretty frequently because I air down every couple of weeks anyway, lol.

 

You could unscrew the zerk on the slip yoke to let the built up pressure out. It will splooge out some of the grease and air pressure being held in by that grease. If you don’t potentially you could pop the end cap off the end of the yoke if the pressure rises quickly on a big bump.

I started with greasing the slip yoke because I was getting that “kick” feeling when I stopped sometimes. I read somewhere that happens because the slip yoke is dry and binds. The kick feeling at stops is supposedly the stiction releasing. It must be it, because it goes away for a while when I regrease it.

 

Mobile 1 since Day 1 on the 4th gen. Never a prob.

 

I tried looking it up, and one thing I found said that you'd pump in grease until the slip joint started to expand and then stop. In which case, then I did it perfectly.

 

Lol crisco it doesn't really matter

 

I prefer bacon grease

 

I was quoted $169, so I visited harbor freight and got some equipment to do it myself today.


The joint between front propeller and transfer case gave me the most headache. Had to remove that plate.


I could see the grease come out in spider joint. But I had no idea how much to grease the slip yoke, so I pumped in around 30 in each slip yoke. Is that too much?

 

I just use Valvoline red grease nlgi #2 for everything. Stopped the squeaks from my ucas too.

 

Could be too much, but it’s hard to tell. But if you have a doubt, just unscrew the zerk fitting. Excess will come out under air pressure. Overgreasing the slip yoke can pop the end cap seal off.

 

Gonna do it tomorrow, not looking forward to going back down there. If there’s no escape for grease why is there a zerk fitting? Where does all previously pumped in grease go?

 

I’ve also wondered about this. I usually just put 5 pumps in the yoke but every time I’m thinking about where it all ends up.

 

When I first researched my stiction problem in the slip yoke, I read that the design of grease path apparently is not optimal. It has to travel from the zerk to all the way to the back and then back up the splines. The lube is needed at the splines. It seems they just don’t put that much in at the factory….

Then first time I went to lube it real good to solve the stiction, I pumped a ton in there until I saw the slipyoke expand a little bit. After reading that too much lube could potentially hydro lock the whole deal, causing a pressed cap on the end of the yoke to pop off, I went back under and removed the zerk, and bounced on the bumper to compress/cycle the yoke a bit. A ounce or two of grease came out, and I put the zerk back on. After that, I could see evidence of grease at the swiper seal…which tells me it’s lubed down the length of the spline. Now, I only add a few pumps every 10k miles or so.

Same deal for the front slip yoke. (That one doesnt compress with suspension travel, but rather with the torque from the engine primarily. )

 

Here is an article, https://trail4runner.com/2021/03/03/propeller-shaft-maintenance-how-to-guide-5th-gen-4runner/ , from tail4runner on lubing the front and rear driveshaft. In the article they talk about 4 pumps into the rear yoke and 2 pumps into the front yoke which is what I have been following and have had no problems in the first 25K miles at least with maintenance being completed every 5K miles. I suspect if you are following a longer interval or haven't completed the service before it may take more.

 

Seriously? 169 to grease the drive shaft? Wow.

 

It is from a dealership and just 1 but if that’s the ballpark figure then I don’t need to ask around anymore.

 

As a new 4Runner owner I've spent far too much time researching what grease to use on the drive shaft. Has anyone ever had issues with their drive shaft? If these are prone to failing or wearing out, then I want to get it right, but if they are long-lived, problem free components then I will feel better just putting any old NLGI #2 grease in there and moving on.

 

It doesn't matter

 

I have 200k on my g1 Tacoma with no issues. If your greasing it regularly that's more than most users.

 

Welcome to the forum!

I wouldn't worry about buying fancy grease. My last 4Runner had 257,000 miles on it, and I never greased it. I didn't have any problems. So, with proper maintenance, they're probably good for 500,000.

I went with the Walmart brand, lithium base as specified in the manual.

 

In that case...I followed mtnslyr's lead and made a stop at Harbor Freight to get the goods. I recently changed the oil so I'll get under there and grease the "propeller shaft" soon. Then schedule the grease for every other oil change.

Thanks for the help, everyone. I'm learning a lot and saving money at the same time!

 

Sometimes this forum can save you money. But, usually, it inspires people to spend money.

 

Red Line CV-2 or Valvoline moly fortified gray grease.

 

The coupler is not necessary and costliest part, but it’s worth it.

 

+1. Completely agree--the coupler is a bit pricy, but definitely makes the job easier!

 

I'm no mechanic, but it seems like continually adding grease to the slip yoke when it has no means of self-purging is a recipe for issues. Kind of like wheel bearings on a trailer. You can't just jam grease continually into a wheel buddy zerk fitting without eventually blowing a seal.