The GlamRunner

Now I started working on installing an 82 Supra AFM, 87 Supra 60 mm throttle body, and late model upper intake ported to 60 mm. During this I found a leaking fuel injector, so ordered a set of Bosch 4 hole injectors. I decided not to stop there and ordered a Redline Engine Builders head with 1 mm oversized valves, valve job, and 268c torker camshaft. Now it has spiraled into replacing a bunch of corroded heater pipes, and installing a new heater valve and fixing the cobbled mess of heater hoses. The heater valve cable is still intact and works! . I assume the original valve started leaking, so one of the PO’s tossed it instead of replacing it.

I’m still waiting on a few parts and gaskets to get it back together.

 

Got the engine back together and running well, and got a new softopper.

 

Looking good man! That’s a clean engine

 

Thanks buddy. Now just need to clean up the whole bay.

 

More pics... yes, I assembled the head on my kitchen counter

LCE 4 hole rocker shafts



Toyota OEM rockers



Yota1 and LCE billet half moons and block off plates





All new temp senders and heater pipes





Autometer digital full sweep water temp gauge. For the sender, I got a 3/8 BSPT - 1/8 NPT adapter from a hydraulic store, and placed the sender in the BMSV port for the EGR, since I removed all of the EGR.

 

First off awesome truck and thanks for all the pictures.!! I going down a similar path with mine at the moment, just concerned if i will run into rim fitment issues...
I want to have the exact same set up with the FROR brake mounting kit, milled IFS hubs - Tundra brakes and calipers....
Im just wondering what rim size you are running..?
I current have 35s on a 16" diameter rim 10" wide with neg 44 offset - alloy cast not steel
Im hoping that it will clear those "beefy brakes"..!!

 

Thanks. I'm glad it is useful. I have 17" wheels, so no clearance issues. I think a lot of 16" alloy wheels will fit, maybe not all. I'm not certain.

My brake setup works amazing, I am extremely happy with it.

 

I noticed a crazy difference in breaking power when I got rid of the proportioning valve out back. By removing it alone, moving from 31 to 35” tire size with the SAS, it stops twice as good as it did with it installed.
Still running the the same v6 front calipers and stock rear drums as it was when ifs.

 

A lot of people will disconnect that rod from the axle and tie it up against the frame to keep the valve open. Deleting it and adding a manual valve is pretty easy though.

 

Yep simple manual valve is the route we took. Works great