So you want to buy a 4Runner?

When I bought my 2017 SR5 4Runner a month ago, I knew exactly what I wanted. I usually know exactly what I want when I get to the point of going to a dealer. One exception was when we bought my wife's car in 2014. We were looking for either a Civic hybrid or Prius, and was pretty much dead set on a hybrid. We got to a dealer and was looking at the hybrids and the guy asked us if we had considered the Corolla Eco (your basic 4cyl but with a cvt tranny). It got nearly the same mpg as the much more expensive hybrids (but had an *actual* trunk!), and didn't have all the complexity of the batteries etc... that come with the hybrids so it was a no brainer. Walked out with a brand new car for under $18k.

I did get them to throw in the tinting for free, too, similar to Mr. Ortiz above. The car was already tinted on the lot, but I was telling them I didn't care for the tinting, so I want $500 off the price.

"We can't do that, we're already 'below invoice'." ha! "below invoice"!

"I'm still not paying for the tint. Hey honey, what do you think about that Civic hybrid?"

"What if we threw in the tint for no cost."

"Go on...."


Anyhoo...

I had been lurking on the various local dealer websites for a couple months. Wife and I finally decided to pull the trigger on a 4Runner- we've got some camping/travel trips coming up this summer and figured a new 4Runner would be a welcome upgrade from my 2004 Doublecab.

I wasn't able to shop around to other dealers, because the other area dealers ONLY had Premiums or Limiteds (seriously?).

I did one last check online before we headed to the dealer to see if they still had the sale price advertised (they did). Really the only difference between the 2 they had was a set of $800 running boards (seriously? $800??). Once we went to the office for the "negotiations" they first tried their "what do you want your payments to be?" BS. Said I don't care about my payments, i want to talk price.

They then tried to start out with the full MSRP sticker price. Nope, don't think so pal, we'll go ahead and start at the online advertised price, THEN we'll talk. Guy had to "go talk to his manager" to see if it was indeed for *this truck*, I had to show the guy the add on my phone. Even if the VIN wasn't the same, it was a 2017 SR5 they were advertising for $4k less than this one. I want THAT price.

They didn't end up budging much more on the overall price, but I was able to get them to match the financing offer from my bank, which was below their "advertised" APR, and got them to throw in some weatherproof floor mats and even a sweet Toyota tote bag (lol).

 

Nice job! Do you have any pictures of it?

 

I do!

That's my previous daily driver/new overlander build in the back

 

Looking good! i like that color. overlsnd build = just empty your pockets.

 

I told my wife I have a welder, so it will be cheaper... lol

 

Thanks for taking the time to post all this. It will definitely be helpful for my next purchase.

I'm a little slow, so please explain why you separated everyone into two brackets? Why not just send everyone the best price you received so they could try and match it?

 

I agree. Too much work to save a few hundred dollars. The local dealer can be worked to deliver the lowest price. But the buyer HAS to know what they will pay after doing some research and make the offer. 9/10 times if the homework was done, the dealer will do the deal. No need for 150 dealers and all that jazz. They will sell if they make a few dollars. I totally bought my 2016 Tacoma from the first dealer which was my local one and they offered $500 above invoice and I took it. I bought a $35600 truck for $33500 out the door. (tax here is capped at $300) I traded the truck with $750 for a 16 4Runner with similar miles. So in a sense, I paid $34250 for a 16 4 RUNNER SR5 Premium. I would say get your best out of state price and take it to your dealer. It is VERY important for the out of town dealer to send you the terms so you can shop with real numbers and competition locally. You don't need 100s of "bids" Just a handful will prove to show what dealers will sell the vehicle for.

The end of the month is no bargain if they are way off their bonus money. But if they need one or two sales THAT's when they will sell at a loss to pick up thousands in incentives, One has to be pretty lucky to be THAT guy they HAVE to sell to in order to make their bonuses

 

IMO, you're way better off selling your "trade in" to a private party. You pay for the convenience of not having to ever see your trade in again. Easy peasy.

But if you want max value, keep your trade in and sell it to some schmoe.

 

That was the best ever. Very entertaining. I come from the MINI world and it's all about knowing more about the car than the dealer and having it all dialed in before you approach. I bought my last three MINIs front he same (very good) dealership and it was no hassle, straight to the bottom line. Once they know you know what you know, the inclination to BS sort of falls away...

 

You can't get the price for a trd pro tho.. they won't budge lol

 

Thanks Ramon for this thread.

Used many of these tactics a few months ago. The most important ones for me:
1. check other regional prices
2. know what you want (Msrp vs invoice)
3. Non KDSS w/moonroof are a PITA to find.
4. Miami/Chicago/Phoenix had the lowest prices of my nationwide search.

 

do your homework before you go used car shopping and always bring cash ask for maintenance records carfax and tell them you want a cold start when you get there a cold start will reveal any engine noises like valve knock smoke from tail pipe or excessive water vapor which could be signs of a bad cat converter or worse bad head gasket and speak your mind if they have a car listed for 5000$ dont pay a penny more. they will tell you there are dmv fees and doc prep tell the i'm not paying for that i'm paying for the car lets face it they only payed 2000 when they took the car on trade in or gave cash for it stick to your guns and if they won't sell it to you another dealer will walk out . i guarantee they will not let you leave the lot if you have cash. ​

 

if you are in the market for a new 4runner go to a credit union and get a loan from them check the internet for what the average prices are then get a cashier check for 2000 less then that average price credit union have great interest rates it will save you thousands dealers will go over and above to sell you the car you want. cash is king its in your best interest to do it that way. larry

 

I respectfully disagree Larry. Cash was king at one time, but I don't think the same is true today. The fact is most dealerships loose money selling new cars (weird fact, but true). They make their money from financing loans, extended warranties, service, ect.... If two buyers come in with the same lowball offer, one has cash and the other wants to finance, the dealer is more likely to accept the offer of the person willing to finance. If you really want to save money, go in with a low offer, finance from the dealer, and pay off the entire loan in the first month.

 

let me ask you do you pay sticker price? when i buy a new car i get many dealers compete for my business most will under cut each other to sell me a car so play there game. let them stress out the details and sit back and wait for the best offer to come in even look out of state you would not believe some of the deal that are out there you can save thousands if if you have a solid strategy.you are rite about the financing. but after the deal is done i would go straight down to a credit union and pay off the dealer loan for a better interest rate saves you a lot of money in the long run. that is just my strategy works for me every time. but it all comes down to your credit rating if you have great credit the dealer might have a lower apr than a credit union.

 

Yes, I'm saying after you have gone to multiple dealers and found the best price. My point is you may be able to save even more money off the best price you find if you say you will finance through the dealer, as opposed to paying cash right then and there. The reason for that is the dealer thinks they will be able to make up that price difference through financing it to you, the possibility that you buy the extras or the extended warranty, and/or service your vehicle with them. After you have accepted their financing and rejected all the extras, then you can go and pay the whole thing off the first month (to save the most money) or to your point, go to a credit union with a better APR and pay off the car that way. I think it's a better strategy than offering to pay cash out the door.

 

you are right if you finance through the dealer you can get the extended warranty which is definitely in your best interest for sure like you said after the deal is done go to a credit union and see if you can get a better interest rate which will save you thousands in the long run and LOWER YOUR PAYMENT.LARRY B

 

Man I thought I was tough at a dealership!

 

That’s a great model to use! I was not as fortunate since what I wanted was way to hard to get and all the dealers knew how high ppl would pay. They are marking the Calvary blue pro’s over msrp

 

I'm in the market AND in Phoenix...please share!

 

The art of haggling is simplified via the web. Find the BIGGEST dealership in your area (you look for the guy who has 36 4Runners on his lot, not the guy with 4 of them) Decide what your looking for, use the web and find the average and lowest price paid. It gives you leverage. Now you know real numbers. Get a price in mind you know is low ball.
Play the game by letting them high ball, you go low. Then you walk out. They will call within a day or so. Once they call you, you must be prepared to walk out again. I always use this technique. I scored 6400 off the sticker. Additionally, another 1000 was a Toyota rebate and I was elated. I walked out 3 times. On the third time he came out as I was leaving and he said give me 5 more minutes... It was worth it. I don't use a spread sheet.

 

Can't you just use truecar?

 

Did better than.

 

THANK YOU! Seriously. This is excellent. Now to create a PDF of it to carry it with me and memorize (I suck a negotiation when it has to do with anything that I want)

 

Nice write up! I have a different purchase a 4runner question. anyone know a cutoff date to order a 19? I'm on the fence between an 19 or 20. I'm in no rush so I can wait. I'm hoping more details on the 20s come out and still have an option to get a 19 if I want. Definalty want an ORP but want it factory ordered with the pro rims so I don't pay twice for rims and tires

 

Just curious...what's considered a deal on a newer 4Runner? I'm northeastern Florida. When I started really looking for a 4R I don't think I got anyone to budge much more than a thousand or so. We bought a Camry about a year ago and had all kinds of deals coming at us. Finally did what we usually do anyway and bought both from a fixed price dealer. Got the 2019 4R SR5 for $31k (had 12k miles on it). with the trade in of our Sienna, I got out the door with the 4R for $28k. Not sure if it was the best deal ever, though I got the vehicle I wanted for a price I could swing, guess that's what counts/

 

Lot of smoke and mirrors when purchasing a car, at the end of the day if your happy and of course your ok financially you did good. Can't really ask "what's a good price" people will pay more than you and many will pay less. Depends on everybody's tolerance for negotiations. I think I got a fair price but then added a dealer installed remote start before delivery. Sure I could of done better on one but I don't care it was a extra gift to myself. I don't give a damn who buys it for less I'll still sleep tonight. Enjoy your vehicle.

 

Thanks for sharing, Ramon. Both entertaining and informative!