Shock’ing Discovery

OP, I've been reading this thread with much interest. I keep thinking that the TRD PRO FOX set up (front and rear) would meet your needs and budget. If you will be running 265's now, You will get the 1 inch lift up front, can keep your stock rear springs and upper control arms. Essentially you would have a stock TRD PRO. I think someone is selling new take offs in the marketplace right now. Maybe $1,500 or less. I picked up a new take off set for $1,200.00 a few months ago. I've only been doing mild off road trails. (pretty tame) but they feel good to me and no complaints on road. This is the thought I keep coming back to when I read this thread. You had asked about the Fox shocks in post #119. Good luck with your decision!

 

Well the alignment with Ironman did not go well. Looks like the lift been higher side (even though advertised as 2.5in lif5) the stock UCA is maxed on the alignment. Thought please?


Edit -

Here's a pic of my previous spec with Toytec 2.5 springs for a comparison.

 

My only problem TRD PRO Fox shock lack in comfort even at stock height with my experience compared to cheaper Bilstien5100 / Mid level Ironman foamcellpro. Of cause they are no match to high end ELKA 2.5DC. When you add a lift to clear 285s by changing to different springs or adding a spacer to increase the preload to stock springs on TRD Pro Fox. But its true that comfort is just 1 item.

 

Jba or dobinson uca..

 

Thank you for your interest and feedback!

I agree, I think the Fox Pro setup would be perfect for me. Just 1” in the front would be nice. I was seeing new Pro Fox for sale around $1500 too. My only concern would be to confirm the online purchase would be the newer pro strut assembly with the improved spring seat, that addressed the front end shock clunk.

I own vehicles long term so longevity is important to me. That was part of my motivation to return to stock and run 265’s.

 

I think that’s why Ironman recommends their UCA’s.

 

Working with my good friend at R4T and looks like we have a plan. Will update with the changes.

 

It really looks like they didn't even try, the before and after numbers are so close. If they were reasonably competent, they should at least have been able to improve caster somewhat from the starting point.

 

Not sure what happened their. May be because I already had 2.5in lift and I did not remove lower control arm when installing ironman 2.5lift that did not mess the alignment or non lift alignment shops don't know how align lifted vehicles. Right now at R4T with a friend and let see how much improvement they can do.

 

How would you compare the ride with the Fox setup to your oem setup? Any noticeable changes besides the lift in the front?

 

And returning to 265 and stock height might help you improve mpg.

I've been thinking about lowering my rig down a little and running 255 75 17 after my 285s wear out

 

Great question, I would like to know too.

I get the concept that there’s no free lunch, but I’d rather have a softer ride, while sacrificing some off road ability.

I can live with some body roll as opposed to having to call my dentist every time I drive my 4R to make sure my filling haven’t come loose.

I’m looking forward to seeing how my car rides after removing the spacer lift and installing 265’s. I’m guessing it will be a tad firmer.

 

I am probably going to go through a period of “Clearance Envy” next week so I expect you guys/gals to help me through it.

 

I'm thinking your ride is going to improve after removing the spacers. One thing I've seen mentioned on posts over the years is when spacers are used with the oem shocks, not only can that extend the shock (depending on where the spacer is placed), reducing the down travel of the shock, which you discovered and pointed out, but the shock is now not operating in its optimal range of motion due to being extended at normal ride height, reducing its effectiveness.

 

In case you go this route, avoid anything with the part numbers In the Toyota bulletin. The correct shock is the one in the photo PTR61-89210- RF/LF. This is the 2021 and current shock. (No clunk)

oddly enough the rear shocks use the same part numbers (RR/LR

 

Thank you!

I actually saw a set on eBay with that P/N for $1400. Seems like a good buy, but I’m gonna wait and drive it for awhile as is. I may be satisfied with the stock shocks or at least establish a baseline.

 

It’s a little firmer ride. I feel like the body roll and braking nose dive is improved. It’s definitely a stiffer setup compared to OEM. It’s an improvement but not dramatically. Which is where I wanted to be. I also had a 1/2 inch Cornfed spacer on the OEM set up and this feels better all around. I also run my tire pressure a little higher, I like the firm ride.


This is my stance now, with 265’s

 

I appreciate the response, thank you. I can't see much in that photo, however.

 

Yeah definitely! Probably a good idea. Keep us posted..

 

I don’t have much, but here’s another angle.

 

Very interesting video even though this one is about GX460 I have similar problems with install, lift height, spring height, customer support not knowing what they sell and alignment not good as other kits. I will use it for sometime and make a video about my experience and problems.

https://youtu.be/ZrnruoTZD1o

 

You might be maxed out on caster with your lift height and stock UCA's.

 

Sorry for your troubles kmeeg, but I appreciate you sharing your experiences with Ironman products.

When I received a quote from a local shop in an effort to keep my 285’s, they were proposing JBA UCA’s. This is not a bad thing but when I “closely” read through JBA’s website, I saw a note that said if you are using stock rims, it may be necessary to use wheel spacers and/or a body mount chop!

This was immediately a red flag. I pictured myself climbing out of one rabbit hole only to go down another. That solidified my decision to put the suspension back to stock configuration. The cost vs benefit ratio just wasn’t there for me personally.

Some people enjoy solving complexities, but I prefer the KISS principle.

 

Have to search more why previous 2.5lift had better alignment spec vs this have bad specs. May be because ironman run on the higher side. I don't know. Wish Ironman tell that up front like some suspension do that you need uca. I would have just go for something like Bilstein 6112 and set to medium level and run stock uca. Again not sure. Will try to learn.

 

I can assure you that Eibach shocks used in conjunction with the stock springs will not lead you down any rabbit holes. I opted for the .85 lift snap ring setting, while others, like @nimby, choose the 1.6 lift snap ring setting. There have been -0- issues since installation, and my alignment was well within an acceptable range with stock UCAs. I opted for these because, like you, I wasn't interested in additional issues due to excessive lift, while still desiring a more level 4R with just a bit of rake, and not using spacers to achieve that result. Couldn't be happier.

The Eibach setup I used gave me a similar look as the Pro Fox shocks would, for considerably less $$. I'm sure the Fox shocks are considered much more of a step up, but I got where I chose to be with Eibach.

 

I took mine to an off road shop after I installed a 2.5 in lift. They told me to try to put on 150 miles or so before bringing it in to get aligned to make sure things settled first.

Ultimately, they werent able to get caster in spec, but both sides were in the low 2 degree range. It’s settled about half inch since then, (down to the to the initially expected 2.5 in.) so I could stand to have it aligned again. Regardless, I like the way the steering feels with the caster. It’s lively, but not unstable.

@kmeeg , did you torque down the UCA and/or with full weight on wheel? If not, the bushings could tear, and the tension them might also contribute to extra height.

 

UCA were tighten when the wheels were off. I have to keep my eye on the bushings if they were damaged during installation. I hope not. It was quite a painful process to diy.

With all the pain on installation process and customer service I should not forget to give credit to the ride comfort. Its pretty good.

 

I made an ommission in my post, I should have said Upper Control Arm and/or Lower Control Arm, because both have similar types of bushings.

Honestly, it’s a pain in the but to do the lower one as well, especially without a lift. The leverage makes it difficult to crank the torque wrench to the high number required. But it is possible. It might have been easier if I had a longer torque wrench, but the length might make it interfere with the floor.

I dont recall, but it seems that you also replaced the upper arms? One thing you could try is put the front corner on a jack stand, remove wheel, then use a hydraulic jack on the LCA to move the suspension up to it’s ride height position. Then you’ll still have the access through the wheel well. Of course, make sure you dont jack it too high or it will fall off the stand. Just bring up suspension near it’s final ride height, loosen the bolt to let the bushing relax, then final torque, and call it good.

 

It does sound like a Pita.

Tomorrow I’m going to pull the skid plates in preparation for the lift removal next week. I’m just gonna let the mechanics pull the lift when they install the new tires. It’s worth it to me to pay rather than fool with it. If I had all the tooling and a lift, I might do it myself.

I’m gonna take measurements of the current setup to compare to the new lowered configuration.

Told the wife that the N-Fab steps may have to go because they will hang to low. She suggested running boards and I said No Way!

So a compromise might be rock sliders. Some sliders I’ve seen look like they would work as a step. My only concern with sliders is the additional weight. We’ll see.