Service Department won't follow Toyota's maintenance schedule

Pump attached to a tube you stick down the dip stick tube, so you pull the oil up out of the pan instead of draining it.

 

Weird. Does it get everything out? I've been debating getting one of those knutson valves for the drain plug. I wouldn't miss getting a hand full of oil every effin time.

 

It’s become commonplace, in fact there manufacturers who’s service procedures say to do it this way and that how much actually comes out depends on the engine design. Generally it’s .2-.5 qts that doesn’t get pulled. Personally I don’t like doing it this way, especially when you need to get under the vehicle to change the filter anyway.

 

I haven't used one, only considered it because I had a couple cars in a row with the filters mounted on top of the block. The filter change was so quick and simple (and not messy!) that I thought it might be cool to get the old oil out from the top as well, and not need to lift or crawl under the car.

But now that I have the 4R and have to remove the shield and futz with the filter canister etc anyway, extraction doesn't add much convenience. And why risk leaving 1/4-1/2 quart of dirty oil in the engine if you have to go through all the hassle anyway.

 

I agree with your thinking. With a quality skid plate and a fumoto valve it’s a breeze.

 

I hope so. Based on what I've read here I kinda dread having to mess with that canister. The drain doesn't seem to work for some people, and with or without the drain it seems like a lot of old oil is gonna spill. There must be a good DIY video somewhere but I haven't seen one yet.

 

I'm on the same page. Draining the pan is the easy part anyway.

Fumoto valve is what I was thinking before. I might pick one up before the next change.

There is a trick to draining the canister, but I haven't figured it out yet.

I believe you can get an aluminum replacement canister, which is supposed to be nicer. But, I think it's just less likely to seize in place. The drain is probably still a pain in the ass.

 

The trick to draining the canister is loosening it.

Oil cap off/dipstick out so it has a vent up too, remove the plug and o-ring off the canister, loosen the canister like 1 turn, jump the drain tool into the bottom of the housing. When it stops draining/slows down loosen the canister more by hand with the drain tool still in. As you get a few turns it’ll start flowing out again. After that when you drop the canister it’s a truly empty canister with no mess.

 

Thank you! I will try this next time.

 

Think of it was trying to pour gas out of a gas can with no vent, it’ll take forever unless you break the vacuum and let it flow. Same concept but oil is much thicker, especially when it’s not hot.

 

I grew up helping my parents at their independant family owned quick lube. I have been servicing my 4R every 5000 miles on my own. Oil change, Tire rotation. That way I know the plugs and lugs are safe and tight. I buy my oil filters from the local dealership. I took it to the dealership the first 2 times and was under impressed with the whole operation. I watched them use the battery powered impact to re-tighten the lug nuts without a torque wrench to complete the rotation. I torqued them on my own in the parking lot before I left.

 

I'll put a Fumoto valve on mine in due time, it makes draining the oil easy peasy. I have a 4-stroke snowmobile, and it is a real messy oil change.... till... enter a Fumoto valve and a length of tubing, now it's not messy. Imagine it will be similar on the Runner.

 

I love my Fumoto valve(s).

Have one on my truck and my wife's Subaru.

 

All the cool kids got 'em.... right Jake?

 

I'd have to agree with that