Sanity check for build

So I'm going to try to make some headway in the next couple weeks. Went ahead and got the JL Audio stealth box, JL Audio VX1000/5i for the sub, JL Audio VX600/6i for the speakers. Going to not use speakers in the hatch.

Keeping stock head unit for now because I don't like how any aftermarket HU's look. Hoping the DSP's in the amps work well to make it sound good.

Ripping out all the interior so sound deaden and have a couple questions on that. Anyone go with lighter sound deadening on the hatch to help with the struts / keep the weight down? Since i have a ladder already, i ordered some beefier struts, not yet installed though.

And, anything special for the roof / under the headliner? just more dynamat or does anyone do anything different on the roof?

 

So I went ahead and bought some stuff but have some questions if anyone has answers.

In addition to the below list I'm thinking of getting Audiofrog GB10 tweeters and putting them in the A Pillars and maybe paying a shop to do that so it looks clean.

That said I think I want the XV600/6i to power all the front speakers GS25, GS690 and (maybe the tweeters above)

Then have the VX1000/5i power the GS62's in the passenger doors, the hatch and of course the sub.

I've been reading that for best sound you want the rear speakers quieter so they don't interfere with the front speakers. Could I have the DRC-201 volume control only the volume to the GS62's in the rear? So could i keep the volume low on the 62's without lowering the volume on the bass? I know the bass knob lets you control how much bass but can you program it to not lower the volume of the base, only the speakers?

I also saw there's a valet mode which you can use for anything. If the above idea doesn't work, i could just have have two sound level settings for the rear speakers by using the valet more right? For example normal I might have the rear speakers quiet and valet mode would be party mode to increase volume to all speakers?

OR even - would it be best to return these amps and don't use hatch speakers, return the amps as well and the the 8 channel VX amp, and that way I could control rear volume easily from the head unit. And also get a different amp for the sub. In this scenario could I use the volume knob to only lower power to the rear speakers?

I've purchased the below:
Kenwood DMX1057R (with datalink RR2 and all extra stuff crutchfield recommended)
2x Audiofrog GS25 - dash
2x Audiofrog GS690 - driver doors
4x Audiofrog GS62 - passenger doors + hatch
JL Audio stealthbox with one 10TW3-D4 subwoofer

JL Audio VX1000/5i amp
JL Audio VX600/6i amp

JL Audio DRC-201 volume and bass knob
JL Audio VXi-HUB
JL Audio VXi-BTC blue tooth module

 

My 2 cents... the decision/investment in having a shop doing some pillar fab work will really dictate quite a few things. I personally have hated the sound of anything in the stock dash locations and have absolutely loved the sound of mids and tweets in pods pointed on-axis. That said I was not a fan of how they looked (so much so that I bought a 3d printer to play with making sail panel speaker mounts). I'm sure a lot of difficulties I have had are due to newbie tuning abilities but if you are considering an active 3 way front stage and having some pillars fabricated anyway, definitely consider putting both the mids and tweets in the A-Pillar. Check out post #13 (https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/sanity-check-for-my-sq-build-2019-toyota-4runner.444692/) for pictures of what I hope to achieve one day.

Which brings up another decision point: who will be doing your tuning. A lot of the audio forums will suggest going with hardware that your tuner/shop is familiar with. I went with a Dirac Live-equipped DSP to help automate a lot of the tuning process since I prefer to learn/tinker instead of having someone tune for me. DL isn't perfect but definitely leaps and bounds better than what I am capable of doing myself.

I'm not familiar with the JL ecosytem but for the price of the VX line there are quite a few competitors to consider:

• Helix P Six DSP MK2 + sub amp of your choice
• Zapco ADSP Z16 or Z12 + sub amp of choice
• Mosconi ONE or Mosconi Pico
• Audison Forza

so many great choices its mind boggling... if you do choose to do the tuning yourself I recommend downloading the software for the DSP you're considering so you can get familiar with it. welcome to the car audio rabbit hole.

 

I got the Sony 9500 ES on sale from Trailgrid Pro last year. Very happy with it.