PSI for load range E tires

Not sure, depends on how you use your truck I reckon. I have punctured a sidewall on cedar roots twice. Both times on regular ATs, not 10 ply Es. While I enjoy having the feeling of security that a brand new full sized spare provides, it is never fun having to use it. Inevitably that “POW-pfwoooooooshhh” will occur in a bad spot, while it is raining, snowing, muddy, you need to be somewhere or all of the above. I won’t jinx myself with any statement about not popping a tire again in almost 7 years since I started using 10 ply tires.

 

It is, unless you hang out in areas where punctures are a concern. Also, any true MT is generally only available in LT/E.

Otherwise, yes. An SL tire is probably fine for what most of us do with our 4Runners most of the time.

 

like so many things, better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.

 

I live in the Springs with E’s 40/40 cold inflation. They wear great (with a good alignment).

 

There are drawbacks, and not ideal for daily driving on pavement. For me, I use my 4R mostly for off-roading in Colorado, have a Camry for everyday driving. I lost 1 mpg, a small price to pay though for overkill tough tires knowing your chances of getting a flat in the middle of nowhere is close to "0". But definitely not for everyone.

 

this is exactly how I feel and why I went with the E rated General Grabber ATX over the P or SL rated version. Last thing I need is to be in the middle of the woods dealing with a slashed sidewall that could have been avoided with a more durable tire.

 

I currently have a screw in a treadblock on my Load E Kuhmo's and no issues so far. I will take care of it soon, however. It's just unnerving.

 

I’m already missing the expected puncture / sidewall protection of the E Loads I’m replacing, but hoping the weight and 115 load index rating of the Scorpion ATs indicate more toughness than average for LT tires.

I’ve read that the industry is no longer much using “ply” rating, and in fact the number of actual plies often varies within a given “ply rating.” So Load Index is the current method of describing tire strength. I also noted that the Scorpions weigh a bit more than other LT tires this size, though certainly much less than the presumably way thicker E Loads I’m returning.

 

Did you get a flat already?

 

Them E tires will ride great as long as you have a 7,500 lbs Cummins on top of them

 

lol no, new tires not yet mounted. I just meant I’m already missing the future peace of mind

My E Loads ride great. They smooth out normal road imperfections better than the OEM setup. Bigger bumps are a bit firmer but not harsh. Just feels like a bit firmer suspension setup. Remember that I’m coming from 20” rims and put these E Loads on 17s, so I gained sidewalk while also offsetting the added tire weight.

I’d totally keep them if it wasn’t for the vibration and steering wheel shimmy I’m getting at highway speeds. It’s not even that bad — I suspect others would live with it. Especially once I dropped the PSI. But I find it too annoying.

Other than that, the only downside I’ve experienced is a hit to MPG. But again I’d live with that as a fair trade off for the added toughness.

So in no way am I against E Load for these rigs, and suspect a different E Load tire might have less of this shimmy and vibration. And btw it’s the shimmy more than the vibration that bugs me. I’d hoped it would be solved by better balancing, inc RoadForce, but it was not.

 

4Runner isn't that far off in terms of weight!

 

Sometimes i wonder if folks think about the weight of our vehicles, and especially the weight we add to it, and the demands we put on the tires. I have had pickup’s and 4-wheelers for more than 40 yrs. Now this does not mean this is correct, but i have run load E’s pretty much on all of them. I do not find them to be extremely harsh on the road, but like i said, I’m used to driving trucks. I like to have a tuff tire on and off road, and believe me i have run over some crap on the highway that reinforces my choice for load E’s. They are not bulletproof, but they really have saved my bacon on more than one occasion, on road and off road. I don’t think saving a couple of bucks per fill up is worth not having them. Now you are probably going to say, what about the extra wear & tear, well i say REALLY, have you ever been off road? This is just my take on it, not for everyone, but for me, i will keep running them because of my experience of running over stuff. Have a nice day, and happy trails to you all.

 

I had some transforce e tires on a heavy duty ram and they felt like riding on solid rubber I stepped down to non-hd Toyo AT 3s on it and it felt a lot better on my back

 

I wonder what tires folks are running where their ride quality with a E rated tire is bad. I love my general grabbers and they ride the same as their C rated tires that came in sizes for my old yota pickup.

 

I think some heavy duty pick up trucks require you to inflate those tires at almost twice the psi what we are running in our much lighter SUVs.

 

Yep you have to when pulling heavy stuff or it will be all over the place

 

https://www.worktruckonline.com/156590/lt-vs-p-metric-replacement-tires-for-trucks-suvs

 

After getting a total disc replacement in my lower back, I started buying the softest a/t tires I can find. Toyo AT 3s are pretty high up on the list to me, they're very comfortable they're just overpriced

 

I'm 4,000 miles into running Nitto Terra Grappler G2 LT265/70 17 E Rated tires on my stock TRD-Pro; these replaced the stock Terra Grapplers that came with the truck, which were a P or SL type tire. I run the E rated tires at 42 psi cold (Nitto recommends 43 https://www.nittotires.ca/search-results?vid=148651). I chose to go with E rated because of concerns about punctures in remote areas I sometimes travel. I don't travel extremely rugged roads but sometimes a section of a road will become just that and on a few occasions in the past I was concerned that my original P Terra Grapplers might fail. On two different occasions I got a flat with SL type tires on my old Landcruiser; one was a huge hassle as the wheel lock broke -- I haven't used wheel locks since. I don't worry about sharp rocks and sidewall scrapes with the E tires.

My milage with the E rated Grapplers is about the same as with the former tires. On a recent 3,000 mile trip through Utah, Arizona, and Colorado I got 21 mpg on a few tank fills; mostly 18-19 mpg. The truck runs straight and smooth, no vibration. The ride is slightly firmer on highways and quite a bit rougher off road-- rougher the road rougher the ride. Airing down helps. I've only aired down to 32-35 psi, which isn't much but it helps. A note about airing down I haven't seen addressed much on the forum is hot tire pressure. Coming off pavement to a dirt track, tire pressure is much higher than cold; my 42 psi for instance had increased to 48 psi. On a two-day off-road camping trip in Utah a friend with a different brand of E tires dropped his psi 25 lbs; I dropped my 10. In the morning I had 32 psi he had 16. He aired up to 25.

Anyway, just a few thoughts on Nitto Terra Grappler G2 and E rated tires.

 

My Ironman are 116t E.

 

We don't talk about hot tire pressure because it should never really be measured warm. It's a good point, though, that if you're airing down warm tires, to keep the pressure a few PSI higher than you would like to run cold.

32-35 doesn't even sound like airing down to me.

 

So start with 40 psi?

 

I run on my new 4runner trail the stock size Toyo at3 in 10 ply that I was running for a few months on my jeep Wrangler. I decided to keep them and put them on the 4runner, Toyo suggest running them at 43 Psi for street driving, which is exactly what I run, it runs great, smooth, and got good gas mileage with them.. averaging in city driving 13.6L/100km.. and on the highway at +/-105-110 km/h like 10-10.5L/100... Definately was expecting worst gas mileage!

 

Exactly. Have a friend who runs high pressures on his F350 dually crew cab (nice f-ing truck BTW), but he has one of three different trailer son there all the time. Makes no sense time wise to change pressures if empty vs one trailer with 1 horse, one trailer with 3 horses and living quarters and another for hay. Set it and forget it.

Dont agree completely. Speed rating and load rating will change this, but 38 is not a bad starting point to determine wear vs comfort.

You'd perform loaded vs unloaded to determine what pressures to run. I'm not changing tire pressures if I am usually alone in my truck vs bringing my family (adding 450lbs) on a 2 hour trip. Its a simple old school way to determine rough settings. Its certainly not rocket science.

 

Apologies in advance for my poor knowledge.
If we are talking about side walls I see most 10ply rated (Load E) A/T tires have 2 ply side wall except for tires like BFG KO2. So I wonder what difference would it be Load C 2ply side wall vs Load E with 2ply side wall? VS I see so most/ (if not)many M/Ts have 3 ply side wall which def be the best?

 

I agree with this. That's why I always refer people to the calculator on Tiresize.com.

38 is the "appropriate" pressure for LT285/70/17’s on our 4Runners. But, I know some people end up reducing the pressure.

Yeah, that's why it's best to just use the calculator and leave it alone. I'll let others screw around with chalk if they want to. I don't trust it.

 

I was not talking about sidewalls. And, I'm sure BF Goodrich isn't the only manufacturer that uses a heavier sidewall on load range E tires.

Just because the sidewall isn't heavier, doesn't mean it's not better to have a higher ply rating.

Load range C tires are all 6 ply rated, D is 8 ply, and E is 10 ply. In most cases, they don't actually have that many plies. But they are considered strong enough to carry that ply rating.

Are most of the punctures you have seen or experienced in the sidewall?

 

I only included you for the M/Ts which I really love if I could run them and tires be the last thing to worry

The 2 posts above I tagged talk about sidewalls. I thought all those rating 6,8,10 ply rated only talk about main tread right not side wall? So I was thinking for side wall plys (2 vs 3) would contribute to puncture resistance characteristics? I'm not sure, its just my dumb brain thinking may be Load C 2 ply side wall would be same puncture resistant as Load E 2 ply side wall.

 

I don't actually know what the sidewall rating is on either of my tires. It's definitely something worth checking if you're looking for maximum puncture resistance.

I thought everything was pretty standard, as far as ply rating VS load rating. But, some brands and styles of tires are just tougher than others, as well.

I know there is a member here, or used to be a member here who had mentioned that the KO2s hold up better than other tires in the lava rock in Hawaii.