PSI for load range E tires

Temp. has a little bit to do with things too. Winter= actually we run closer to 38psi, not as much tire psi increase in the cold. Summer= closer to 36-37psi, after the tire warms up, it's close to 40psi. after an extended drive. They seem to wear well at these pressures. A guy I work with is from the "More is better club", he has load range E LT's, inflated to 78psi., because he pulls a horse trl. sometimes(about 4 times a year) His tires do not last him more than about 10k miles before they are 'cupped' out, howling, slippery, etc. Hey to some... Excess is best! But in the real world it doesn't work.

 

Am I the only one who does the chalk test still? Any new tire load or when loading for a trip, find a flat surface, make a chalk stripe and then go straight for 100 yards or so. If the chalk wore even, tire are good. If it wears on the middle faster, too much air, if it wears on the outside more, add air.

should I not be doing that with load e?

 

Yes you should, i been doing that for years.

 

Good to know. Learn something new everyday

 

80 would be perfect if the 4runner weighed 12,788lbs.

The "proper" pressure with LT285/70/17's is 38. But, 38 feels high on mine. Slightly lower than the "proper" pressure seems to feel better on LT tires unless you're really loaded down.

The chalk test is still popular, but not very scientific. It seems like it could show you the ideal pressure for treadwear, but not for maintaining the proper load rating.

That said, I ran my stock size KO2's low for LT tires. But, I would add pressure if loaded heavy.

 

This.

LT sidewalls are firm.

 

Happiness is firm sidewalls, repels rocks better!

 

Also running load range E BFG KO2 in 275/70-17. Quite happy when the ride. I was concerned going in but they’ve been fine. Some may be pickier however the ride has not bothered me in the least.

 

On my Kenda Klever R/T 265/70/17 Load E, I found the sweet spot at 30 psi. I also did the chalk test and the tire seems to run even. Now, the sticker on the door says a 265 tire should be at 32psi so I guess because it is a stiffer tire, a 30 psi balanced it out. It is still a stiffer ride though, I still feel every bump on the road, but not too bad.

 

Unsafe is the big one here, door jam in my Tahoe for stock tires is 35 psi, I added bfg ko2 LT E’s max psi is 80 bf Goodrich website says up update to 48. I rode under inflated for a while and 48 is smooth.

 

Great discussion here and awesome to have that calculator. I just made a big tire decision and wonder if I'm going to regret it!

In summary:

The OEM Bridgestones on my 2020 Limited suck bad, especially in snow. And of course 20 inch wheels aren't ideal on a vehicle like this. Mostly there for looks, limited tire choices, add weight for no real function, and increase the risk of wheel, tire and suspension damage if you hit something nasty.

So, easy decision for me to get 17" wheels. Especially since that means I'll have two sets of wheels and can go winter-specific -- or even highway specific -- on one set later if needed.

Next decision was the tire for those 17" wheels. My wish list:
-- Excellent in snow and rain but still good for dry and summer
-- Good off road in the few situations I'll need that
-- Tough as nails but won't murder handling, ride quality or MPG

Soooo, I gambled here and went with Michelin Cross Climate E Load in regular size 265/70/R17.

Here was my theory:

Reviews on Tire Rack are great in all categories. Michelin quality. Three-peak snow rating. At 50 pounds, the weight is high due to them being E Load, but less than a lot of tires y'all run, especially since many of you upsize -- which isn't necessary for my use. While 50 pounds is 15 more than the craptastic 20" OEM tires on this rig, I'm saving a bunch of weight on the wheels. So total difference will be less (though I have yet to quantify it cause I can't find the weight of these OEM wheels).

The toughness factor is big for me because that's a main reason I have this rig. I have it for its utility, reliability and durability. Knowing that my tires can stand up to a lot of abuse, especially as I'm driving a lot in the city these days, is big for me.

They also look beefy. I had strongly considered the Michelin Defender LTX, which are clearly great tires, but was swayed by the extra beef of these plus their somewhat higher rating for Winter/Snow.

But will the E Load ride quality and MPG losses kill my buzz? Will they be hard to balance? Gonna find out soon!

What do y'all think?

PS -- interestingly, the tire pressure calculator seems to recommend only 35 psi for these new tires.

 

Load range VS ride quality seems to vary a lot from tire to tire. Aside from noise, my LT/E 295/70/17 MT's at 65lbs apiece seem to ride nicer than my LT/C 285's at ~54lbs apiece.

I think you'll be happy with the Michelins. Let us know what you think once you get them on! And, post pictures!

 

Thanks and will do!

 

Hell no... i dont haul a ton. No way id run a E load tire on a 4runner.....

 

Lol.

 

Google what a E load tire is even for mate. Its for hauling/capacity. A c load side wall, will get you, and everyone in this thread, through the Rubicon, just fine.
Edit- Unless i dont get your humor.

 

I prob would have gone C Load had it been an option in this tire. Tires are always about trade offs. I wasn’t looking for E Load specifically, but the overall specs and ratings for this particular tire seemed closest to meeting my priorities.

I’m prepared to regret it, but was reassured in the knowledge that many guys on this forum have happily run E Loads — and much heavier tires than this one — for tens of thousands of miles. When I see complaints about tires here, they’re usually about ability to balance and the performance of the tread design. And on that balancing front, the complaints tend to involve up-sizing and brands with less of a quality rep than Michelin.

That said, I repeat that I saw this choice as a gamble.

Will report on how it goes!

 

We all know about load ranges. Some people use load range E for maximum puncture resistance. Others do because it's the only option for their chosen size and/or style of tire.

 

So im probably going to get called crazy here, but I run 700lb front coils, and load E range tires and my 4Runner rides super smooth.

 

That tire pressure calculator is neat. I would go off of that, but you can't beat doing the chalk test as someone suggested on here. I work for a tire manufacturer and tire complaints are usually because of ride or a bad balance. The suspension setup and tire psi has lots of to do with how a tire reacts too since it's the part working with the tire for braking and steering. I have both a 4runner and tacoma. I was miserable when I ran E load ranges on there due to ride comfort and weight, but the 285-70-17 you normally don't have a choice. I did eventually get used to it, but when I was on the fireroads it was great. There are some P metric, but we all have that tire look or performance we want out of it. I say give it a try it will take some time to adjust to it, but it depends on your driving habits.

 

That totally makes sense because the suspension can compensate for the tires. What tires did you put on?

 

If you're commuting, I'd just go with a C rated tire. On a 285/70/r17 KO2 the weight difference between an E rated tire and a C rated tire is about 10 lbs per tire. That's enough to have a noticeable impact to throttle response and fuel mileage.

 

285/70/17 KO2s. They are a lot smoother than the Toyo Open Country A/T2 in the same specs, but the toyo was still a good ride

 

Not.

 

When Tirerack did testing, they saw an almost 2mpg difference with a 7lb per corner weight increase in tires. Article here: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=108

For something primarily driven on the street, it is worth at least considering.

 

As promised, updating here that these tires are going back due to continued steering wheel shimmy and body vibration despite three balancing attempts including on a RoadForce machine. It's disappointing because otherwise I'd def keep them, accepting the moderate loss in MPG and acceleration in exchange for the E Load puncture resistance and overall toughness. But it is not to be. I don't have the time or patience to experiment with another E Load tire so got something much lighter that checks a lot of the same boxes including awesome user reviews and 3 Peak rating.

Pirelli Scorpion AT Plus:

 

I see many only talk about main thread strength with 10ply rated construction. You should also consider sidewal construction. I know tires like KO2 Load Es have real 3 ply sidewall and wildpeak Load E MTs (not ats) got 3ply sidewall. If you are looking for wheeling puncture resistance pay extra attention to sidewall strength.

 

I have used several tires like KO2 and Wildpeaks. The best tires I have ever used are the Kenda Klever R/T load-E. They are 10 ply and also have 3 ply sidewalls. Those things are bullet proof in the Colorado rocky trails and are outstanding in snow, mud, heavy rain. Also are a very long lasting tire. On the pavement, they are relatively quiet. Very minimal humming sound. The only small down side is that they are a little stiff on the pavement. If you off-road often and don't mind a little stiffness on the road, I highly recommend them.

 

I put 35 psi in my 10 ply Toyo ATs. No complaints about ride or wear.

 

Isn't a erated 10ply tire overkill on a 4runner? Heavy tires equal worsen performance and mpg, as well as added wear an tear?