Pre-purchase rust

Ok I'm feeling better about the rust! I think he will do $24k. There is a shimmy when you drive it right now, and the tie rods need to be replaced. So I just assumed I should handle the cracked bushings at the same time. He may even split the repairs with me. We're trying to figure it out so it works for both of us. He's been traveling and has let me drive it for a few months, so I'm happy to pay a little more than I would normally.

 

You seem convinced, so just buy it. Come back when you start having problems.

 

He's considering $23k, so I think we're getting somewhere!

 

i would buy it. Based on those pics, it didnt concern me

 

Thank you! I don't have much experience with rust, but I'm definitely feeling better about it.

 

23? Done. Bought. Post pictures of what you do to it

 

Ugh.

 

Yes! We just settled on 23k. The tires and brakes are fairly new, he put a lift on it about a year ago. I'm excited to get my hands on it. Will definitely post pictures.

 

I'm not sure what kind of winters you get in NorCal, but here in the rust belt, I've seen newer Silverados with more rust.

 

Stuff's broken which he hasn't fixed, tons of rust which he hasn't done anything about, yet puts a lift and pro wheels on it?

Has he changed the fluids ever? Air filter even? Does not look taken care of, and that's a lot of miles. It sounds like he wants to get rid of it.

 

Ok here's a fact. Those pictures have nothing to do with potential areas of concern. It shows q bushing on those front LCA and the gas tank skid plate. You really need to research what rusts out on these Toyotas and look VERY VERY carefully at those areas. I am concerned you are looking to justify the decision you already made (to buy), and not being realistic about the cost or concerns. BTW 2 grand sounds like a lot for bushings and tie rods. And 25k can buy you a lot of car. Not trying to dissuade you from the purchase but there is a reason the mechanic told you to pass. Maybe he can show you exactly what rust he's concerned about, and you can get photos of the FRAME, esp. rear section between the axle and THE LCA mounts, SPRING PERCHES, BRAKE LINES, etc. Etc. I'd have my friend fix it and pay him bluebook if the frame looks good.

 

Tons of rust? These trucks have rust on the welds from the factory. I would say that is normal and nothing an annual coat of fluid film or wool wax would mitigate based on those two pictures.

A solid service history would be my concern.

 

The Pictures tell a lot the amount of rust there is Nothing - very minimal, You can see the frame and it is relatively "clean" The asking price is average for the Year.

 

Agree that those pics don’t give detailed looks at some of the trouble spots. I’d include the front cab mount area and surrounding frame structure as a potential trouble spot, especially the passenger side where the AC drains out.

OMG! I just noticed that the 4runner was lifted at the drag link mounts on the back, instead of the frame!!!! Totaled!!!

Just kidding, actually, the fact it was lifted at those mounts show’s that area is solid. Unless it doesn't drive straight anymore lol.

$23k seems like a lot for 120,000 miles. It’s essentially prorated from new price, if you think of the potential life span of a vehicle. The way I see it, 23k is basically full price for the last half (give or take) of the vehicles life. The last half of a vehicles life is also the most expensive and inconvenient half when it comes to maintanance. And it’s also the half with the most depreciation, and potential for rust that will essentially turn the vehicle to scrap. Not everyone sees it this way, but that calculation is what pushed me to save up and buy new.

But then again, money in california seems to be different. You hear of homeless people with good jobs that make tons of money compared to the rest of the country. So maybe that explains why cars are more expensive.

 

Yeah, we live near the beach so I feel like rust is common here. I'm going to go over specific areas of concern with the mechanic, but I'm realizing how normal the rust is.

 

Yeah, fluids, filters have all been changed (completely drained and refilled). It's been well maintained - he's kept all records

 

Did you get it yet?

 

Thanks for the feedback! I am going to meet with the mechanic Monday to go over the specific areas of concern, cost to repair, etc.

 

Thanks! This is really helpful feedback. Where we live, I can't find a single 4Runner under 33k, and the goal is just to drive it for a year or 2 until I can buy a new one. Money is definitely different here. I won't tell you what our 850 square ft home costs. ha!

 

Not yet - my friend is traveling so I'll have it for a few weeks before we do any transaction. Gives me plenty of time to drive it, work with the mechanic, get help on here, etc. haha

 

I was the 2016 4runner July 2016 ..I was the silicone spray of the all rubbers .. rust painted it .. galvanizing paint spray ....
you have to do the transmission fluid and the transfer case fluid ..also the power steering fluid ..
look up the frt/rear diff oil ...

 

Huh?

 

This thread:
Rust-belt guys: "that frame is cherry!"
Non-rust-belt guys: "RUN!"
LOL

There's not even a good picture of the frame, not sure what pictures people are imagining here? I saw that 3rd member, driveshaft, and skid plate- that is not normal outside of the rust belt.

Here's one, come do a 4wheel alignment on this highlander from Wisconsin and let me know how that goes!

 

OP, we have the same problem in WA. Finding a 2015+ that's in decent shape will bring well into the 30's. 25k here would get you a salvage title. The problems with vehicle forums is people are quick to judge the price you pay without looking at all what's going on in the economy of that region. EVERYTHING in CA and WA is hands down more expensive than the majority of the rest of the US. I've done the full US search for a lot of vehicles I was interested in but there's also a break even point you have to consider if you are flying one or both directions. My folks still balk at real estate and vehicle prices (they live in AK) and it seems no matter what I try to tell them, they haven't lived in these regions. So they just can't fathom WHY that house is so expensive or HOW that vehicle is worth that much. Seems like there's a lot of that mentality on here as well. As far as this thread's standards go, we DEF overpaid according to a lot of these replies (2016, 66k miles). But, we are going to use this rig until the wheels fall off. It's going to be a do everything, go anywhere, don't be worried if it get scratched kind of vehicle. The frame surface rust, I'll take care of it when it's time. That's what the money went to, something to be used and taken care of, not sitting in a driveway for sunny days.

 

id be more worried about this at the gas tank. What is it?

 

I noticed PNW pricing is absolutely insane. Even compared to Socal. It seems they are slower to come back down.

 

I didn't realize it was that bad in WA, too. So crazy. This was all so helpful, so thank you. It looks I'm not going to end up buying it. He's been researching a ton, and thinks that even in its current condition, it's worth closer to $30-32k (which I'm not going to pay for it). So that's it for now...will probably look for something with less miles. Thanks again for this response - it's helpful to know I'm not completely crazy haha

 

There are vehicles over 30 years old with less rust than that

 

Sitting in someone's garage in Arizona?

 

Plenty of other states to buy from aside from AZ.