POLL: Do you like the 2019-2020 T4R TRD PRO Roof Rack?

@16kpsi I certainly like the look better than the OEM, but the main reason to recess the rack behind the sunroof is for aero and wind noise. Just curious, you notice any additional noise?

 

yes. I used a new rear pad at the location of the old front pad (spun around). The bolt pattern is the same. Then added four new 8mm Rivnuts (2 each side) to hold down the front pad at the new location....3M 5200 sealant to stop any drips.

 

a little. Mostly based on the cross bar and worse if lower bars are there. So when I'm not using the front cross bars, I can move them back easy enough. Any full rack will give you noise - so function vs noise. I might try mounting a deflector too, but I'm not freeway driving a lot right now, so.....

 

That looks good! Do you plan to make kits to sell for this conversion?

 

You beat me too it. That was my next question.

Perhaps I can pick up a 2nd rack for this conversion

 

I think a wind fairing for the front would complete the look. Otherwise, you got me intrigued.

 

Hadn't. And frankly, it would probably end up costing more than a good aftermarket full rack. As a full kit, it would require $1000 in parts - not including rivnut kits and my time to make the coupling, cut and piece together, modify middle foot, ship...

As a DIY kit, it could be done for about $1000 but its a little tricky cutting the existing rack (if you have one) and installing the rivnuts.

but I guess y'all have me wondering now. dammit.

 

I meant just for the Delrin couplers you fabricated. We can source the spare rack, hardware and other materials that is needed ourselves. Just need a list on what to get and instructions on cutting measurements etc.

 

yes most of us already have a trd pro rack. There’s plenty of used rack to source. I can handle the cutting and rivnuts, I’ll only need the couplers.

if i were to do this, I would just need the couplers.

 

There are now 6 vertical posts on each side compared 4 previously. Looks like the coupler is between post 3 and 4. Was there a reason why the spacing is larger there ? I mean, was there enough length to make the spacing the same with the coupler ?

 

ah. Sure. Let me look at what the coupler cost would be. And I’d be happy to supply directions, measurements, links to other parts etc.

One tricky part is having to lower the tube bucket what becomes the middle support. As is, it is too high and makes the rack ‘roach backed’. Looks like crap. I cast some urethane into the new one then used a 1 1/2” drum sander to lower the tube bucket location.

 

Will your couplers work with both the OEM and eBay rack? You mentioned that the eBay rack has flats inside the tube diameter? Or would you need to fabricate 2 different couplers for both?

If I did this conversion I would prefer finding a used OEM rack to convert so the black finish is consistent.

 

yeah, so there was a lot going on there. I would prefer the middle leg be right in the middle. But I didn’t want to add new rivnuts in two locations. Plus, then you’d need new gutter trim to cut at the new middle post location. So I put the middle leg at the old front mount location - so it’s forward of being centered.
Also, If you look at the spacing of the separators (What you called vertical posts) between the upper and lower bars, the gap is a little larger where the couplers are. I think that’s what you are referring too. I was originally going to make all the spacings even. But shorter would have been too short a rack. Adding another separator (which I laid out originally) puts the new front pad so far forward the roof starts to slope too much (and the gutter gets wider as well) and the pad won’t sit right and the horizontal bars can’t open up enough without modifying.

So I compromised. Put the new front pad at the front of the sunroof and made the gap between separators a little longer in that one area.

 

the flats are only needed for the eBay kit tube. The Oem tube doesn’t need them. I didn’t find this out until I started sawing up my oem one. I had the kit and made the coupler to match that. If it’s oem to oem, not flats needed. Easier part to make.

yes. There is a little bit of a finish difference between the two. Oem is a little flatter. Not sure if this is sun aging or not. You will need to paint the cut tube ends. Semi-gloss rustoleum spray was pretty dead on.

 

$725 was the first thing I saw. Goodness, it’s expensive. Pass on that

 

do you have a facebook? Id like to know how you did this, or how i could! Thanks

 

Hi Tyler.
search my user name on facebook. I should come up
I tried to cover most of what I did here. The rack is holding up great and no issues. The ebay kit I used seems to be here still:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1841091401...L067KdVp4E9hoXlyCVyUG5bpKZ8MFiZxoCpi0QAvD_BwE

The three hard parts are: 1) cutting the OEM and new rack off square across all four bars, particularly side to side, so they mate up nicely. 2) re-working the new rear pad to make it the middle pad. (pouring of the urethane and sanding the circular bevel down. 3) location and installation of the 8mm riv-nuts. but you do that last after building and placing the assembled rack. Rivnuts and tool from McMaster-Carr.
I unfortunately don't have time to make the splicing couplers.

 

Would it be possible to sand the poles down and insert them in one another and clamp with a pipe clamp?

 

My gut says no. The tube wall thickness is only 1/16". So you'd have to sand down the 'male' to 1/32" wall to insert into the other tube. Pretty thin. pretty hard to do cleanly and evenly. The rack doesn't come apart in a way that would lend it to being put in a lathe and turned properly either.

 

now what if you had a pipe clamp that would insert both then tighten around as pictured?

now what if you put them in something as pictured

 

Yes, you could use those. I'd be worried about the bending strength. The joint is in a long span between supports, so if you load the middle of the rack, it'll sag because those types of clamps won't give you much tensile or shear strength.

 

He mentioned rivnuts being added to the front. That would require drilling just like every other drill type rack.

https://www.mcmaster.com/nuts/rivet...t-rivet-nuts/?SrchEntryWebPart_InpBox=rivnuts

 

i think im going to be using these to connect them then drilling like every other rack

 

Ugly as hell

 

Hell, I'd rather draw up what 16kpsi designed in CAD (or a hand sketch if you don't have access) and have the local vocational High School kids make it on their antique Bridgeport lathe and mill.

 

if you draw it up send it!!

 

All I would need would be the rack tubing ID and the center offset to the flat. I can get the OD from my rack. And, the length of the tubing insert portion doesn't matter nor does the length of the middle segment.

 

Better late then never? Print of Rack Coupling. As said, flats are only needed with the aftermarket racks

 

I need a cpl crossbars.
can I get a quote shipped to 59484 pretty please?

Or can anyone give me a part number/link on where I can get them?

 

For pure "looks" of just the empty rack, I like my 2022 TRD Pro Rack just fine... as others have said, it is somewhat unique to the Pro, and I'm kind of glad most folks who don't have a Pro are against it, because that keeps it "mostly" Pro, so a little unique.

From a functionality standpoint, I can easily see how many of the other racks, specifically some of the aftermarket racks are much more desirable and can carry a ton more stuff... However, for me, I will RARELY use the rack... and when I don it will be for small loads. I don't ever plan to have a tent or awning on it, don't to extending off-roading trips, so I can't imagine needing more than I can put in the back or in small cases that work fine with this rack.

So overall, I'm happy with it. It works for me and my needs.