Photon (The Light Hunter) Build Thread

Lights, camera....let's back that up to just lights.

After going back and forth over whether to swap out the factory LED fogs or not I realized that I'm really satisfied with their illumination/Lux pattern (ref. Diode Dynamics LED Brightness article) so it was more a question of "was I good with the fogs being bright white or would I benefit from swapping over to amber/yellow?" In my mind the white illumination is best for my overall use but the option for adding more light for nighttime trail riding leans towards the yellow/amber, so...

The postman dropped a box off today.


I had bought this as the 'Stealth' kit which comes with an integral mounting bracket set that attaches to both the crashbar mounting bolts and the air dams. Problem is, I've already removed those upper air dams when I installed the relocation washer fluid reservoir...and most folks that do a major bumper upgrade also either remove those air dams or do some serious cutting. So I need to figure out a way to support the upper mounting bracketry, or go with an entirely different approach. I need to take some measurements and think this through for a bit...

 

3-5-24. Not much has happened over the course of the past couple of weeks as I begin preparation to cut the compressor mounting plate, there were a number of 'details' needed on the part drawing as well as design refinements but I think the time spent was well worth it, you'll see!

In between the hours spent behind caliper, computer, mouse, calculator and a few cups of coffee I needed to get up to speed on the TORMACH...many thanks to my CNC instructor who's showing me 'the way'.

We first took my mechanical drawings and created a 'tool path' file (g-code) to load into the Pathpilot controller. I'm primarily a CAD designer and the disconnect between design and manufacturing became quite evident as we worked through this step of the process.

A quick check to be sure that the correct 'tools' are loaded into the ATC (Automatic Tool Changer)


After setting the machine reference we then used a '3D-Taster' (3D Sensor) to locate the X, Y and Z datums.


Unfortunately we ran out of 'lab' time so tomorrow we'll be cutting the plate!

 

Yesterday I was able to get some extended 'lab' time in on the Tormach, which was needed since I had to completely set up the machine from scratch...reload my config files, set up reference, datums...yada yada.

But it was worth the effort to make sure that everything was set up correctly, turns out that I needed to change out a number of 'tools' in the ATC!



Upon completing my pre-cycle checklist it was time to click on that "Cycle Start" button!

 

There were no issues during the entire machining process and I was rewarded with a nice end item, ready for deburring and clean up (degreasing.)

 

Now comes the fun part, arranging the 'kit' components and preliminary build up.

...and now, the official start of the compressor plate build! Fastening all of the hardware onto the plate I elected to use Rivnuts, mainly because this plate is only 1/8" thk (which does not give enough thread engagement.) Rivnuts also have two qualities that I like; installation is quicker than tapping threads and like helicoils, there is a hardened thread for the bolts to engage. This reduces thread wear/galling and provides more than 1D thread engagement.

Here is the tool with two tips for two fastener sizes to be installed on this plate followed by the initial insertion of a rivnut and the last one illustrating a fully installed (properly compressed) rivnut.


Rinse and repeat to get all nine rivnuts installed...less than 5 minutes!

 

Now comes the really fun part, a handful of SS socket head cap screws, washers, ample use of Loctite...on goes the compressor bracket, the manifold sub-assembly and the relay on the underside of the compressor plate.

I need to go back to the hardware store (again), as I did not realize that had an insufficient amount of L-channel stock. TBC...

 

Oh yes least I forget, I get to hack up these two wiring harnesses to complete the compressor installation in the new engine bay location. There will definitely be some 'thinning out'...



Edit: Just so I don't loose this work for later use...

 

Compressor Plate Build - Cont.

So, after a day the plate developed some ugly 'marks' due to the fact that the original oxidized layer was removed during the machining/cleaning process. I was hoping to keep the finish clean since my DIY anodizing method always produces an inconsistent finish on large articles (its great on small stuff like fasteners though) and I REALLY did not want to paint the plate...but I caved in and went ahead and applied some spray on enamel.

Now there was a time where I had learned a few painting tricks and one of them is how one can 'harden' enamel paint using heat. I decided to try using my 3D printer's enclosure and heated bed (rather than mucking up the kitchen oven!), set the build plate to get the plate up near 140ºF and let it soak in there for a couple of hours. I just took it out and am letting it cool down, I'll probably start re-assembling all of the components onto the plate tomorrow morning.

 

Compressor Plate Build - Cont. (part duex)

While the plate was curing in the chamber I decided to rebuild the manifold and address a little issue I have with the way the manifold rattles due to the fitment within the two mounting 'wings'. It's such a loose fit that the manifold actually toggles freely (and I can sometimes hear it while driving!). So, I figured out a way to 'shim' out the manifold block to eliminate the issue. The difficult part was getting the side shim dimensions beween the pneumatic fittings and the mounting wings just right. This was important when setting up the 90º elbows used to connect the manifold to the compressor.

Here's a couple of images showing how loose the fitment is, notice the manifold's 'tilt'...


Shims designed to pick up the gap between the bottom of the manifold and the top of the mounting ears...several side wall thicknesses to accommodate the pneumatic fitting spacing.


Remember, use enough teflon tape on the threads, especially since I'm not confident that I can tighten up the fittings enough to utilize the pipe thread's design characteristics. BTW, you can see why I don't like simple painted parts, notice how much paint scraped off on the part edges and even under the washered bolt locations. Hopefully the elevated cure temperature method will help with minimizing these shortcomings...


Manifold assembly rebuild completed. Here you can see why I needed to spend time to get the fitment correct...notice how the 90º elbow brings the input line parallel to the manifold's long axis with the ball valve arm in the vertical (closed) position and low enough it doesn't interfere with the hood when its closed.

 

I bought that same rivnut tool for my project as well, lol.

 

it’s a good tool and once you learn a few adjustment tricks compressing the Rivnuts is a piece of cake!

 

Compressor Update (March 12 - March 13):

Well, there's bad news and good news with the compressor install into location #3. While the design is sound and I was more then pleased by the fitment into the pocket there was just one...little...detail that I had overlooked. When setting up the design for this particular location I did what I usually do first thing...take some reference measurements to get an idea of the actual space that I could work with. Measurements like these...



So I used the rubber trim where the hood touches when closed to mark the upper boundary of the space to work with. Makes sense right?

Well, it turns out I missed one critical detail....looking up to be more precise. See what I missed?


End result, the hood doesn't shut completely! Missed it by only 1/2 inch of clearance...Aaarrgghhh, back to the drawing board.

 

Wow. Bummer. But, your tenacity is amazing!

 

Hood Aaaargggh - Part II

I returned back to my desk and buried my head for a spelll...how could I have missed this detail bogged my brain for some length of time. Eventually I retuned back to the scene of conflict and began to rethink this problem. Which really isn't one if you fully understand what limitations there are....and now I know.

So, with just the compressor body in hand I decided to try a different approach...errr, make that a different orientation.

And a few weeks pass by (cause I didn't have much time to devote to this until recently), and with a renewed determination to 'make this work' I put some more neurons on overtime and came up with a new solution...it fits even better than the previous design and, yes, I was able to shut the hood completely with no interference issues.

I had an opportunity during a small gathering today to do a small survey of this design (it good to get more eyes and brains involved) to not just capture anything that I've overlooked but to also get design feedback for a possible future product? I've spent a good many days on this new design and am confident I can lock down the engineering drawings and actually cut a plate next week. Maybe even getting a final installation by next weekend...fingers crossed.

 

But just yesterday a few boxes arrived and since the compressor effort is on standby....


The end goal idea from last year...


And with a little wrenching...taaahhdaaahhh!

One of the 66L boxes will be dedicated solely for recovery/emergency gear and the other for other essentials when out in the wilderness. I've now recovered the equivalent volume inside the vehicle, a huge benefit.

 

BantamEddy, When faced with adversity one can only choose between two ideals...and I don't easily give in to the white flag (if rarely). So I thank you for your kudo, its a nice affirmation to never giving up on a goal.

 

No doubt @Photon_Chaser, it can be tough sometimes. I’ve worked hard to sincerely adopt the mantra, “Don’t get mad, get busy.” Failure is part of the game…

 

4-20-2024 Time flys when you're sulking...

Didn't have access to the machine shop for a couple of weeks and I find myself getting really antsy about getting this particular project completed...there's only so much I could do in the meantime (but was productive in spec'ing out parts for adding camp lighting to the awning.

But finally time came and was well spent, was super efficient with my time slot on the CNC!

Got the mounting plate all cleaned up, degreased, painted and cured the enamel in the 3D printer chamber!

 

4-20-2024 (cont.) Time flys when you're NOT sulking...

While the CNC was doing its thing, I had machined the L-bracket which is what will allow for the quick disconnects. I didn't take any pictures of this process because, well, I was hustling to get things done today!

Next week I hope to be able to machine out the clevis' and switch plate, the last two components needed for this project!

 

Could you please share your neat solution for the "cargo cover’s spring-loaded front end…which fits into these side panel sockets while also providing the lower front support for the molle panels. I figured out a neat solution that is not only robust enough to carry what weight the panels themselves could handle but is literally invisible with the cargo cover installed. " I'm going to buy the victory panels as well as I want to use my cargo cover as well. Thank you.

 

The interface that I designed fits in between the side-wall 'sockets' and the cargo cover's spring loaded ends. I'm a bit reluctant to show the actual parts because its been brought to my attention of someone else (on another social media platform) whom took my overhead Auxbeam control pad mounting plate design and is now selling them. I have plans to make many of my designs here available for a reasonable cost but now I'm re-thinking the whole thing. Send me a private PM, lets figure something out.

 

It's been a bit since I was able to have any appreciable amount of time to work on Photon so when a couple of hours opened up I tackled a more permanent installation of the Scangauge II module. I found a simple mounting plate and did a remix (5th Gen 4Runner ScanGaugeII Steering Column Mounting Plate) on it.

And no, this image angle was taken pretty much level with the top of the steering column, at head height the gauge does not block any of the instrument gauges (I can easily see the digital odometer/trip meters.)

 

Knobs and Things...

Just playing with a number of ideas this morning, these are two of them.

First you start with these...


Then you play around with some more ideas...


Prototyping can be fun...


Better stop before I get too carried away...

 

Yes. So much yes. Please keep this up. Plenty of people would love for this solution as one currently does not exist. Looks bad ass!

 

Knobs and Things (cont.)

The dash project (experiment) continues into day 2. Set the printer into 0.12 mode overnight and woke up to this. I know, the ‘bezel’ is still missing a few details but that’ll be addressed via multi-color printing in a follow-up iteration…now that the basic geometries have been figured out!

Test fit.



Plugged in and operational check.

 

Wow what a build!

 

Following closely!

 

On-Board Air (cont.)

While waiting for the arrival of some new nozzles for the 3D printer the Apex fittings and flex air line arrived. It's time to build up a 'winter set' of air line jumpers between each wheel and the respective air ports in each wheel well. Last winter the 'blue hose' I used for the jumpers became a bit too stiff to work with so I'm looking forward to using the more flexible Apex braided line.

I'm loving these Apex CRS hose fittings. After installing the air chuck to the 1/4 NPT end of the CRS fitting, assembly of air hose to the fitting requires no tools, just finger tight is all that's required for a secure connection. So *if* there were to be any issue with this connection I could easily service it while wearing gloves. I also like the secure hose connection as I have had issues with push-to connectors in the past, not just with my on-board air system (I'll be replacing all of those push connectors later on) but in other pneumatic applications at work.

 

Knobs and Things (cont.)

Still waiting for the 0.2 nozzles so 0.4 will have to do for now. This time blacking out tuner knobs.

 

I love how you printed the trim behind the climate knob. I wish someone would sell those.