Overland Torque Tune (OTT) by Overland Tailor

Another big thanks to Wicked Matt for putting his personal 2020 4Runner on the dyno to help us in finalizing the OTT 5th Gen 4Runner Magnuson Calibration. We've had it in final Beta phase for some time now with many happy customers. However, today we were able to fully vet it, put the final polish on it and have it be a full production release. For those that may not know, Matt Miner (Owner of Wicked Matt Tuning) is a full service facility with an in house Mustang Dyno. He's our go to for those of you in the RI area.





This particular vehicle has an aFe intake and the Magnuson S/C kit (TVS1320) installed and was baselined 8/3/2023 with the supplied tune from Magnuson. Today, we loaded up the OTT T4R Maggy Calibration and here is what we were able to achieve with the OTT calibration on Premium unleaded fuel.



Notes for this particular platform:

• Upgraded fuel pump strongly recommended even for stock vehicle fitted with supercharger. ANY pulley upgrade MUST have fuel pump upgrade.
  
• Fuel pump upgrade available from URD.
• Aftermarket intake not required on this platform, very little improvement in output even in S/C applications.

 

Intakes are money wasters

 

Does this 4runner have the upgraded fuel pump?

Those numbers are super impressive! Thats about 80 more hp then my stock 4runner dynoed at. I bet if that 4runner didn't have all that overland crap weighing it down it would move!

And from what I recall from my rotary building days mustang dynos read a little lower then dynojets.

 

This one did not. The ones we’ve done previously showed similar fuel delivery shortcomings at higher RPM and high load. We’ve advised our clients a pump is advised before any other modifications are performed. Ideally you’d have it done, whether you’re tuned with us or not, as the pump is running at the ragged edge of what it can supply.

Thank you! We were a honestly surprised ourselves. I figured we could squeak 15-20 out of it over the Maggy cal, but we’re happy to take a win when we can.

Mustang’s are a bit stingy compared to DynoJets from my experience as well. We’ll do our best to get one on a DynoJet as well to keep the consistent theme of our previous testing.

 

Agreed. Unless you’re in the 500whp area, we’ve not found meaningful gains with the 3G Tacoma, 5G 4Runner or 2G 5.7L Tundras by replacing the OE airbox or filter.

2G Tacoma is another story..

 

Let me know when you get someone in the Tampa Florida area.

 

Any update on that tuned dyno run on 87 octane before winter gas lands again?

 

I ordered an AFE 76mm throttle body so we will try to do both when we test that later this fall.

 

If anyone is on the fence about this tune, don't be. I have had this in for I think about six months now ... and not one time have I questioned it. I opted for the mild throttle mapping, and IMO it's perfect for this truck. The low-end torque is better, shift points are almost perfect, and no more gear-hunting. And, I can definitely say my fuel economy has improved since the tune as well, probably at least 1 to 1.5 mpg average after six months of usage.

 

We'll have this data for you (and more) here soon as we already have vehicles scheduled and dyno time booked.

 

Any thoughts on the afe tb yet?

 

Yeah, save your $. It doesn’t do anything. I’ll be posting details here in the OTT thread later this weekend. Did the dyno testing yesterday.

 

Tb and Cai total waste of money

 

As the old saying goes: “In God we trust, all others bring data…”

I spent some time helping @JustDSM on the dyno on Friday. For the 4Runner, the goal was to get dyno data for the OTT tune on 88 octane fuel (mid-grade here in UT) and to test the AFE 76mm Throttle body.

There was also significant testing done on the 2nd Gen Tacoma with various bolt ons, that data can be found here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...no-testing-by-ott.759616/page-5#post-29197638

Onto the 4Runner testing. First up 88 octane. I ran the 4Runner to empty and put in 3 gallons of the finest Smiths (Kroger to most) 88 octane with “up to 10%” ethanol fuel and headed to the dyno. Once there, we strapped it down and got to work.

I used Techstream to reset the ECU learning to purge any of the advance the 4Runner had achieved in its pampered 91 octane OTT tuned life to date. We loaded the stock file with only change being apply gearlock to the 2-3 downshift maps to lock the vehicle into 3rd gear for the dyno runs. We did a few runs to get things warmed up and to ensure the 88 octane was thoroughly through the system and to allow the ECU to advance/settle. Then we did a few runs to establish that we were getting consistent results. As usual, we monitor intake air temp and engine coolant temp to ensure consistency for each run. We allow time for things to cool down as needed between runs.

Here is what we achieved:


Here are the results with 88 octane stock (red) and 88 octane OTT tune (blue). The OTT tune is unchanged for this test, this is the exact same file I run with 91. This highlights the tunes ability to adapt and work with varying fuel octane. Green is the previous OTT run on my 4Runner with 91 octane.

This highlights there are meaningful gains with the tune on 88 octane. But it’s not just about peak numbers, take a look at the results at 2500 rpm and 3500 rpm, this is where we spend the most time driving our vehicles.
2500 rpm

3500 rpm

Next up we installed the AFE 76mm throttle body, reloaded the stock tune, and did some additional pulls. Our hypothesis was this would provide 0 gains, as the intake is sized to 70mm, and the manifold is sized for 70mm, so a briefs increase to 76mm at the TB likely won’t yield meaningful gains. We were right.

While the TB didn’t provide HP/TQ gains, it will provide some increased throttle response as its slightly larger area effectively scales the amount of air going in at low and mid-throttle. However, we can accomplish this same behavior by scaling the throttle in the tuning software while tuning and not have to spend another $350 on a TB.

Red is the stock 88 run, orange is the stock file with 76mm TB. We performed multiple runs, in the end, the 76mm TB is basically no gain or loss vs stock.

My take, save your $ in naturally aspirated applications and do not buy the 76mm TB. There may be benefits to this 76mm throttle body when combined with an aftermarket intake with larger diameter AND a Supercharger or other forced induction applications.

Our testing to date also shows there is very little to no benefit with aftermarket intakes on the 5Th Gen T4R in the naturally aspirated configuration. We’ve done dyno runs with the air box completely open and no filter and got line-on-line data again. I’ll see if I can dig out that chart also.

Hopefully this info is useful to the group here.

 

Thanks for putting all the time and effort into the testing. It only reinforces what I have read about OTT so far.

 

If you don’t test it, how do you know it works? We are happy to do the testing.

 

I love how you guys put your tunes on the dyno. Keep up the good work.

Have you put a 5.7 tundra on the dyno yet? Curious because I'm probably going to buying one shortly.(off topic)

 

Thank you!

We've had a number of Tundra's on the dyno.

Everything from Stock to Supercharged (Maggy, Whipple, and Harrop) with stock pulley's and smaller pulley's with larger injectors.

Stock 5.7L Tundra:


Supercharged Examples:

Magnuson:


Magnuson with upgrades:


Harrop:

 

Do you think the afe throttle body would add any improvement with a supercharger? Or even with just an intake? Im just wondering why afe decided to add a throttle body to their list of 4runner performance parts.

 

Obviously we’d want to test it first before a definitive answer could be provided. In theory, with a larger intake and a larger TB it should be feasible to better feed a supercharger or other forced induction application. However, testing to date shows the factory intake is not limiting things.

As for why AFE sells them if they don’t add performance? No idea. Probably the same reason they sell intakes and other items that don’t add power. Because people buy them and don’t actually test beyond the butt-dyno. These devices may add power in highly modified forced induction applications, but for naturally aspirated, I don’t think factory hardware is an issue. That’s my opinion.

 

How hard is the URD fuel pump install?

 

Thanks for the work. I’m new to your dyno charts but it looks like at initial acceleration (2000 rpm) there’s a significant lag in tq/hp. Is that accurate? Was that an anomaly or something else?

I have a ‘22 4R, an ‘02 4R, and a ‘95 V-6 Taco, is there an effective tune for those early gen V-6s?

 

That's just the torque converter flashing to the stall speed of the OEM converter. It's normal behavior. I don't like to lug the engine too much on the dyno so I don't typically start below 2K RPM but it's difficult to capture that split second between your foot hitting the floor and tapping the sample button on the dyno just as the engine/trans come up and the converter flashes.

VFTuner is working to bring more of the 5VZ ECU's into their supported platforms. I'd follow their release notes about future support for those platforms. Most people at present time go standalone with the early trucks due to the enhanced capabilities of the aftermarket ECU and limited support for those early ECU's. That's far overkill for a modest build even. Most of those folks are at least running supercharger kits. Anyway.

Hope that helps clear up any confusion with that.

 

I've not personally installed one on the T4R. Technically speaking, it wont be any different than any other drop-in pump install. I'm fairly certain the 5th Gen T4R will require you to drop the tank.

This may help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBaMlyW1rD8

 

I wouldn't even begin to hint at why personally.

There's some interesting info out there on throttle body sizing for engines. Looking at data from actual motorsport applications there is some interesting things that can be gleaned from their testing.

Take a older 2.0L European Formula 3 engine that produces about 240hp (not to far off what these 1GR's make). These engines were fitted with a 26mm restrictor (530mm^2 area) and still able to achieve > 100hp/L. Obviously a engine in highly tuned form, but the engine is just a air pump. Our engine making just ever so slightly more power using a upgraded aFe 76mm throttle body is roughly 8x the cross sectional area of the 26mm restrictor. So a engine <300hp N/A engine with a throttle body sized at 76mm is total overkill.

One thing you can do to see if there may even be merit to upgrading your throttle body is to look at the pressure drop across the throttle body. Measuring that pressure drop can indicate whether there is power being left on the table. We typically use a standalone data acquisition system to log two MAP sensors pre and post throttle body to determine that. It's a little bit complex to setup, and we didn't do that for this application but it's something one could do.

I'd also say that if you have another reduction in cross section within your intake that is of a smaller area than your throttle body (such was the case in this test) you're very unlikely to see any improvement in output/airflow with a larger throttle body.

I'm still a little on the fence whether the TB upgrade is going to do much on a supercharged application. I may work on that test as we do have a supercharged 5th Gen we can do some development work on.

 

Cold air was to lean on mine and I felt more torque for factory box with K&N does better for $400. I bought cheapest one I could find which is Spectre. My mileage average fluctuate less and is less. Low and mid felt lean less pull and I had a Jet MAF senor. Junk CAI. I bet a 5th get with 4:88s, 6 or 8 speed would get high 20s. I just thought today also I wonder if with the 4 it will be mounted sideways for better 2wd traction then they put a flat floor all the back and a long shafted rear diff. Imagine the room.

 

I have a Jet MAF because like 3rds it was hard to get accessorize for anything. It was However if you can't change ECU parameters it won't
help matter. Feels like it helps at higher speeds one of the few things other than get air in and our faster. I even thought about plumbing cold air from front to pressure the box a little. My Direct Connection race book you have to have at least 15 cubic inch opening. My little red express had two 5.5 ducts multiply by 3.14 like they do on Challengers now in head lights. Speed is where you start feeling working forcing in there. .Probably worthless after a few key turns. I try cheapest thing that gets milage and power if it works in past. Clutch fan drags more than you think but can feel it because engine revs noticeably faster.

 

I been wanting to do this. Probably best $450 you can spend on hp with stock everything.

 

Bigger sounds better but usually isn't. With a charger that Toyota engineered I would and Magnuson probably builds them for Toyota.

 

Yeah not for racing or gas mileage the runner. That's why I never supercharged after driving a 3rd with everything but 7th injector to eliminate lean valve rattle and lean condition. I wasn't impressed for the money.