OEM Audio + in 2022 ORP, speakers only?

What did you get, and how much?

 

It's been a few years now, but I think I got a 2 sets of these with the tweeter center mounted on one set for the back doors. Pretty sure they ran between 4 and 500 per set. Also ran a 4 channel JL Amp and a JL 12" woofer. Took out the third row seating to be able to hide the Amp and sub.
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-BkEKt...KLKqqV_xKLAAXiWsAz3hAsI76NLF52WhoCvjYQAvD_BwE

 

Do the door speakers and tweeters easy, direct replacement installs?
Where does the sub end up?

 

The speakers and tweeters are direct replacement in stock locations behind factory grills/door panels. We custome built a new deck in the back where the third row was removed and mounted the sub in the new floor.

 

I just looked at the specs on the OEM Audio speakers and tweeters are 4ohm and door/hatch speakers are all 2ohm! Yikes, I guess the stock head unit amp drives them ok without adding the additional sub/amp?

 

I don't think the stock head unit is powerful enough to drive anything aftermarket. I have at least a 400 watt amp driving my front speakers and sub.

 

The speakers need to be very low sensitivity if not using an amp.

 

I ordered the OEM Audio+ 8 speaker upgrade for my '21 Venture. I found a $50 off code and free shipping that brought them down to $699. I know they are not the cheapest route I could have gone but the reviews have all been great so I am looking forward to a little better sound over the stock speakers. Will update this once I have them installed.

 

Cool, let us know how installation goes, and how they sound.

 

Just spoke to the rep at OEM Audio about the set for the 4Runner. He said they are the same impedance as the stock 4Runner speakers, but higher sensitivity, so should be fine as a stand alone set of speakers without adding an amp. Of course they will sound BETTER with an amp, but the stock head unit is perfectly capable of driving them as is.

 

Right on. Well good luck with it! Let us know how it turns out.

 

Opposite, you want high sensitivity if you have low power.

 

Damn, thats what i wanted to say.

 

Just hit the chat button on crutchfield during business hours and they'll ask you some questions and set you up with everything you need. So many speaker options depending on what your end goal is. Everthing is included from the brackets to plug adapters that require no special tools or skill set to hook up. The tweeters do require some small modifications if you decide to change them. I bought the subaru tweeters from bam wholesale since they're plug and play and purchased the other 6 speakers from crutchfield. The 6 speakers were around 220 with free shipping

 

Yes just the speakers

 

Oem speakers are 2 ohm. Are these ok to run off the stock head unit without an amp? I thought the stock speakers were 4ohm

 

I think the stock tweeters are 4ohm, and everything else is 2ohm. But I could have that backwards. Main thing is sensitivity rating...the higher the number, the better (takes less power)

 

I believe that all the stock speakers are 4ohm; but, they are wired parallel in pairs; making each pair/channel 2ohm. (in front, dash and door are wired parallel together; in rear, door and hatch are wired parallel together).

 

do you recall what brand speakers you went with in the package..

 

You should consider using Infinity Kappas, they one of the lowest resistance and highest sensitive speakers sold by Crutchfield.

 

heard some cracking this morning while listening to to the local radio station but when I played music from bluetooth and sirus xm I did not notice the cracking noise.. idk..

 

I installed the OEM Audio+ speakers in my 2021 SR5. Took less than 2 hours to install, watched a couple of YouTube videos that helped. Very happy with the results.

 

OEM Audio+ speaker upgrade installed today. Like MrBell above it took about 2 hours to complete. Putting the door panels back on is definitely the hardest part.

Tip 1 - dash tweeters - don't remove the mounting bracket (bolts with screw driver slots), if you do the bolts holding the speaker will be hard to remove.
Tip 2 - buy a trim clip tool. Inevitably one or two will pop out of the door panel and will need to be pulled from the door.
Tip 3 - Go slow and take your time and watch the youtube videos as they are pretty helpful.

How do they sound? Better than the stock POS for sure. Awe inspiring, no not really. I tried to record stock vs OEM A+ but with an iPhone you can't really tell a difference. I would say at the same volume levels the OEMs sound more crisp and clear. I was able to turn the new speakers up way higher (higher than I would drive with them) without noticeable distortion. Happy so far but it is only day one.

 

Do any around here have experience with Morel’s Tempo Ultra Series? They make a 6x9 component set that looks pretty impressive. Focal makes one 6x9 set, but it is pretty entry level.

I am actually supposed to go have Focal 165K2’s for the front and Flax Series coaxials for the rears along with a 4 channel amp to begin this journey.

However, as I am not doing a subwoofer yet, not having to do 6.5’s in the front will make a nice difference in midbass.

Any advice would be very appreciated. Have around $2000 budget for speakers, amp, and installation.

 

Based on your initial impressions (and maybe a few days of using them), do you see yourself upgrading to the OEM+ amp in the future? Their tiered system is a la carte but there seems to be a small savings if you go straight for the speakers and amp kit. Feel free to update the post in a few months if you think you need more time to evaluate.

 

Well, it begins. Went with the Morels along with a Morel 400.4 to drive the speakers along with Dynamat.
Pretty stoked about the 6x9 component set as I really was resigned to using 6.5’s.
No subwoofer for now as just the speakers, amp, Dynamat and installation cost a tank of gas under $2000.

 

Hi folks. So I’ve been down the Oem audio road and actually had installed both their speakers and dual 8inch subs and two amplifiers. The short version is that their system sounds fantastic PROVIDED one isn’t looking for hi volume or bass. Their 8 inch subs are really a waste of money imo buy their speakers are actually rather good. This reminds me I’ve actually got the oem audio speakers I took out when I chose to go all custom on the sounds system.

 

Teaser.

 

I've been chasing better sound out of non-JBL head unit for the last five months. Long road.

Amps tried:

• Kicker Key 200.4: not tuneable enough to compensate for ridiculously stepped on HU signal. Automagic mode works great for delay/staging but not for EQ. Moved to '59 Chevy pickup. (sounds GREAT1!)
• Audio Control D-4.800: pretty buggy and annoying DSP software but I can work around. BT unit to tune with phone/android doesn't work. Now using wife's macbook with serial cable. Have spent the last months toying with config options to get decent sound. Getting there, but it has been painful. Keeping this amp (don't have a choice), but feel it's not ready for prime time due to software performance and design (e.g. - two places to set delays, which should one use? Answer: no one knows nor can explain diff)

Speakers tried:

• Subaru/Kicker oem tweeter in dash: too damned bright. don't work well with oem door 6x9. My mistake. Removed.
• Kicker 3.5" coax in dash position: sounds better but not balanced with door speakers. played with filters and x-overs but realized a component setup would be better
• Kicker 6x9 coax in door position: unspectacular. my fault. still learning. realized matched component set would be better. moved to '59 Chevy pickup (sounds GREAT!)
• Focal ISToy 609 in door and dash position: now we're getting somewhere. was not terribly impressed with construction, but they are sounding better
• Kicker 6.5" coax in rear door position: intially thought they sounded like crap, but realized signal from HU has very weird EQ. Keeping and working on EQ and delay refinements
• Disconnected rear gate speakers: jumped leads due to serial wiring so that I'm only running rear door speakers.

Tuning trials:

• HU output heavily EQ'd to work with stock speakers. Hard to get good clean, near-flat signal to amp.
• HU output apparently (suspicion and some testing but not proven) has delays cooked into it. Have started experimenting with using no delays from amp. Eventually landed on setting delays by ear with eyes closed to get clear center stage. This method works!!!!
• Due to significantly diff EQ on front and rear channels I had been summing F+R channels to sent to amp channels. EQ sounded better. Timing sounded muddy. Conclusion: No channel summing.
• Voltages on F and R channels different, likely due to rear serial wiring with door and gate speakers. Has made setting gains interesting without getting hissy noise floor.
• Output RTA on amp is only an output signal evaluation and cannot account for acoustic properties of cabin (what it actually sounds like). Bought a calibrated mic (UMIK-1) and started using Audiotool with it to do EQ. Starting to get much better results.
• There are some weird spikes and holes in the cabin acoustics. Has required some non-optimal EQ settings on some bands (too much distance between adjacent bands) giving just OK results. Have compromised between flat EQ and distance between freq bands to get best results.
• WHY TF does Toyota hate midrange frequencies so much in favor of boomy low freqs? ;-0

Current state: Starting to sound pretty good, but I'm not there yet.

Conclusion: Stock HU fucking sucks, and I received plenty of advice to just ditch it rather than try to work around it (GIGO). But I didn't want the hassle and am a sucker for an impossible problem.

Jason

 

Rear (passenger) door and rear gate speaker are wired in SERIAL. So 2Ohm and 2Ohm in serial shows 4Ohm to HU.

Resistors in parallel reduce resistance. Resistors in serial increase resistance.

Jason