How To: 5th Gen LED interior conversion

Yes, and yes. There's a big difference in brightness. IMO the SDM2 bulbs would be too dim but I didn't try them. The HP5's worked great in the doors though.

 

Anyone having any issues with interior leds in newer runners? Just curious as I wanna swap mine out- little paranoia since I know 3rd gen Tacoma’s are finicky about them

 

As a precaution, make sure the socket is powered off before changing any bulb. Powered sockets are what typically causes blown fuses.

 

Right on- good idea

Also, @jester243 i just ordered all my bulbs from Chris / jumper
Got new reverse too- I like to see when I back up lol

 

I need to do the reverse lights too

 

I’ve had them in my Tacoma’s and always noticed a prettty big difference.

 

Has anyone tried this style of reverse bulb in the 4runner housing?

 

Amazon Prime 20% off coupon right now on the Philips Ultinon bulbs. (Just click the coupon in the app on the bulb's page).

These 168's are awesome bulbs. Very bright. I installed them in my license plate sockets and they're almost too bright for that location, although they actually help at night for the backup camera head unit display.

I just ordered 8 more for lower door panel lights and for the side-view mirror puddle lights and map lights.




Here's the de3175 for the dome light, as well as the two lights on the inner tailgate. Haven't tried this bulb yet but will report back when I get them.


I prefer this type of bulb over the generic looking ones with exposed LED's. The quality just seems all around better. And I've never had one throw a code or quit working.

 

All leds interior wise are now done as always it’s a huge improvement in light output as well as aesthetically. The stock bulbs look so dated and like someone smoked in the truck for years by how yellow they are

This thread was a perfect way to follow a step by step for the job. I will add that the map lights were a .02 second job to swap by simply removing the cover and using a pair of needle nose players with a little tape on the end for cushion. Hardly any pressure on the bulb at all and a slight pull down and they pop right out


Lastly, wtf is up with my luck haha I swear every single bulb I swapped had to be removed and spun 180* to make work

 

So I just completed all interior conversion to led. Something to note: when I turn off the truck, I notice that the two lights on the rear hatch door remain lit VERY dimly.

There are three settings for that switch.
-OFF
-ON WITH DOOR OPEN
-ON

When I put the switch in the OFF position, the bulb is completely off. In the ON position it's bright.

But in the ON WITH DOOR OPEN position, the light is bright with the door open, but extremely dimly lit with door closed. You can't even tell unless it's almost pitch dark, but it's dimly lit nonetheless. When I move the switch to the OFF position, that dimness goes away completely.

It's like there's a trickle charge to the switch in that position.

Any ideas what's going on here??

Also, the map light flickers when starting the truck...

 

I also did the puddle lights. Once you actually get to the bulb (careful you don't break any tabs), I can tell that moisture is reaching the sockets (new truck).

When I twist the socket to get the socket out of the housing, there's moisture on the rubber gaskets (both sides). Might want to use some bulb grease on these sockets.

 

I wonder if that ever so slight glow would be gone a while later.. I’ve seen some fluorescent bulbs have an ever so slight glow a while after being turned off. Can’t recall if I’ve seen leds do so
As for the flicker I’d be curious as to the bulbs themselves . Where did you purchase them from?

 

Bulbs are all Philips Ultinon from Amazon. Good quality.

I wondered about the residual "glow" going away after a bit too, but when i flip the switch to the OFF position, the glow disappears immediately. That makes me think there's actually some current there. Hmm.

 

Ah yes, missed the part about complete shut off.
Sounds like there’s is a little current still flowing. I honestly wouldn’t sweat it but that’s just me. It’s such a low amount that it’d likely never affect the battery . I’d be curious if you got a super slight glow from the oem bulbs.. that said- maybe this just shows that the LEDs just take that much less juice to light up and the “leak” had been there all along but only now noticeable with a more efficient technology in place

 

The only lights I have not changed are the lower lights in the door panels. I believe they are 168 wedge base 5 watt. Any source suggestions? Maybe these ?https://www.precisionled.com/t10-canbus-5-smd-led.html
or
http://www.morimotohid.com/t10-194-morimoto-xb-led-2-0.html

 

Either of those would be fine. But if you have a local auto parts store, the Sylvania Zevo 194/168 are really nice bulbs. Most stores carry them now. You should be able to get a pair for about $14 I think.

 

So what’s the outcome on the bulbs? I want to switch my dome and door lights to LED but all this talk about small current flows and what not. I’m confused. I want my lights to operate properly. On means On, Off means Off.

 

The Philips Ultinon and Sylvania Zevo leds all work just fine.

 

Here's my Bulb list:

Headlight lo-- H11
Headlight hi-- 9005
Fog-- H16
Reverse-- 921

Dome- DE3175
Tailgate- DE3175
Door-- 168
Map-- 168
Puddle-- 168
License plate-- 168

(Although there might be a .5w difference, believe 168/194 LED’s are interchangeable— Zevo’s are listed as 168/194 on the package itself)

 

I've had no issues at all since I changed them, they all turn on and off or dim out as they should

 

Sorry for the silly question but...is there a trick to getting out the reverse light fixture? I tried to swap it out last night and felt like it wouldn't pull straight out and didn't want to turn. I was in a hurry so I didn't want to rush it and thought I'd ask. Thanks.

 

No sweat. You have to turn the plastic fixture . It twists about 1/3 of a turn and then pops right out

 

Do you have to remove the tail light housing to replace the reverse 921 bulbs? Or are they accessible from inside?

 

Accessible from the inside. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZudKp1R6gg

 

Thanks. It didn't seem like it wanted to turn but it was about 15 degrees so maybe it just wasn't wanting to cooperate. I'll wait till it warms up a minute and give it another go. Appreciate it.

 

Maybe push in a little as you twist to relieve the pressure

 

Those twist and pull sockets can be hard to get out the first time. I think the rubber gasket kinda seats itself on the very first insertion at the factory. Then that fresh rubber sticks and kinda locks it up. After you get it out the first time and break that initial seal. successive times will be easier. Just make sure you're twisting the right direction.

 

It's also very easy to remove the entire light fixture if needed. I dropped the bulb so I had to take it off to get the bulb out.

 

I finally got my map lights both replaced thanks to this thread! I have been going nuts with only one LED in for a couple of months because the darn bulb wouldn’t go in! I took the CRAWL control module out and was able to remove the console so I could replace the bulb from the backside (I wish I would have done this first instead of trying with tape and needlenose).
Anyway, quick question: did anyone have trouble getting the CRAWL Control box back in tight? I can’t seem to get it to “click” back in place... it is up and functioning just fine, but is not fully clipped in on the front (closest to windshield) and I am worried it is gonna drop while I am driving on rougher roads.

 

I don’t understand what the issue is with removing and installing those bulbs it’s a 2 minute job and removing that entire console is way overkill/unnecessary