glwood54 vs. stock 4R

Sp8ball's lift instruction pdf in post 266:

 

Eibach struts and shocks installed yesterday. Long day, took my time. I'm too picky.

Pretty much just like the installations linked above.

1. Removed skid plate
2. Ratcheted strap around KDSS sway bar by the DS cylinder
3. Removed sway bar brackets on both LCAs. Photos of each after removal:



4. Loosened lug nuts on wheels

Started on driver's side:

5. Jacked up truck, put on jack stands, removed wheels (both sides)
6. Proceeded with the 'no spring compressor' front strut installation - put floor jack under LCA, removed top nut on strut, both bolts where LCA attaches to knuckle, loosened LCA cam adjustment bolts a few turns, lowered jack to relieve pressure on spring, removed bottom strut bolt, removed strut and spring.
7. Installed Eibach strut, with spring seat at second spring clip notch (.85), tightened top strut nut and bottom strut bolt on LCA
8. Jacked up LCA and reinstalled two LCA attachment bolts to knuckle.
9. Repeated above for passenger side
10. Reinstalled wheels, dropped truck to the ground
11. Reinstalled passenger side sway bar bracket to LCA, wasn't really an issue since I had strapped the cylinder in place with the truck on the ground. This bracket was very close to the LCA
12. Needed an additional ratchet strap to get the driver's side bracket back close to the LCA, wasn't a big deal. That, in combination with a bottle jack, made lining up the bolt holes relatively simple. It did take some finagling with the brackets to ensure that I didn't cross thread the bolts, but definitely doable. The whole KDSS reattachment process wasn't anywhere near the terror I anticipated, actually one of the easier steps.
13. Torqued the LCA cam bolts FYI, the cams never moved during all of this...
14. Reinstalled skid plate.

15. Rear shocks installed. Getting the oem ones off were a PITA. It took forever to figure out how to get the top nut off. But done.

Proof that I installed at least one strut



Took most of the day yesterday, taking my sweet time. The other biggest PITA, besides the rear top shock nut, was the rubber strut bushings (both sides) underneath the upper shock mount bracket. Those suckers were like superglued underneath there, and I fought to get those out. One came out in pieces, and I had to scrape the leavings out before I could mount the new strut with its own bushing. Finished after dark, so I don't have any good after photos at the moment, just one comparable in my driveway:

I don't have any other photos yet.

The front driver side is almost 1/2" lower than the passenger side. When I take it in to the shop for an alignment, I may have them install a 1/4" spacer, if the lean is still apparent by the 16th when I have an appointment. I will check it out for a while and see if it looks like it leans. The rear is exactly the same on both sides.

On the first drive, initial thought was as others stated - more firm overall. I never thought there was much 'nose dive' on my truck with the KDSS, and it doesn't seem much different now. The front went up about 1" average overall, the rear stayed within 1/4" of where it was. Looks so much better. I'll have some better pics when I get some on level ground.

Measurements before and after:
Before:
From hub ctr From ground
LF 19.25" 34"
RF 19.50" 34.25"
LR 21.75" 36.50"
RR 21.75" 36.625"

After (with minimum driving/settling):
From hub ctr From ground
LF 20.00" 34.875"
RF 20.50" 35.25"
LR 22" 36.75"
RR 21.75" 36.75"

I'll keep track to see if it changes.

 

I think I'm going to put the A/T tires on the back burner for now. Doesn't seem like the best time to drop $800 - $1k on tires at this point in time. I could stand to wear out a set for a change.

 

Let us know about that ride quality when you get a chance...I am interested in hearing your take.

 

Well done Gary!

The unknown can be a bit intimidating, but I'm glad you decided to tackle it on your own and save yourself that installation fee.

Also curious to hear what you think of the ride once you drive it around a bit.

 

Good work, Gary! It looks like all of the research paid off!

 

That it did, thanks! I can understand the intimidation factor, I was there, figuring I needed a shop to do the install...researched this to death, plus, with all the time off, parts sitting in the workshop, and a two-week wait for installation, I figured, why not tackle it myself?

I'm paying for all the crawling around under the rig now, though, I can barely move...what I wouldn't give for some ramps. Torqeuing those cam bolts with the truck on the ground was almost, but not quite, impossible.

 

Thanks.

I'll try and get out later today to get some more feedback on the ride. I was not one that thought the factory ride was too soft or mushy, it was great, I thought. One reluctance I had with the Eibach setup was thinking it might be too stiff. The only way to tell is install it and see...

The initial test drive did result in a firmer ride, but I need to get some more seat time.

 

A couple more photos, of the passenger side:

 

Looks great!

 

Did some driving around town yesterday, I had to pick up a few essentials. Not doing much travel these days, and now I'm told my work place is now closed until May 4th as of now.

Anyway, the ride around town pretty much revealed that the great ride I thought I had prior to the leveling with the Eibachs has remained just about the same, just a bit firmer overall. I was afraid it might be too firm, but that's not the case from the driving I've done. It seems the weight of this vehicle can easily stand a firmer shock/strut without changing its ride significantly. I am happy with the ride, and so much more satisfied with the look and stance of the truck with the front end up, even though it's only an inch or so.

I'd love to drive a similarly leveled 4R with the Bilstein 5100s, just to compare...

Definitely recommend the Eibach shock/strut setup for anyone looking to get a more level 4R without breaking the bank, or needing anything else to accomplish this. I could most likely have gone up to the third snap ring setting and been ok, but then would probably sag in the rear when loaded IMO.

I'll drive it around a bit more before I go in for an alignment.

 

Awesome! Glad you're happy with the ride!

As someone who's tried both 5100's and Eibachs, I can definitively say the Eibachs win in the ride department. I remember Oey saying he's tried both as well and came to the same conclusion.

 

Yes sir I tried both...and agree with you. The initial “feel” or “bump sensitivity” doesn’t compare...Eibach hands down winner here. While the suspension is cycling I can’t tell much of a difference. Eibach has a life long customer here...

 

Quite the day today...took the 4R in for 1st Toyotacare visit, which was fine. While there, I figured I might as well see if they could do the alignment, which they did. When I picked it up later, the alignment was as good as I could hope for. On the way home, it drove great down the street, and even on the interstate, and the steering was perfectly centered. Case closed. I thought...(alignment is fine, no issues with that) - something else happened on the way home that leads me to need some advice:

A few blocks from my next destination, I started hearing a very strange clacking noise all of a sudden. It seemed to be related to the rotation of the tires, so I stopped to take a look...there was a frickin socket sticking out of the tread of my front left tire! Had to be at least 1/2" - 5/8", and there was an extension on it inside the hole. Long story short, tire (just turned 3000 miles today) is probably ruined. What luck.

Here's where I need advice. I was only a few blocks from the Discount Tire I frequent, so there I went. They confirmed the tire needed to be replaced. $258 for a new Dunlop to match. I know, seems ridiculous...I could have the new spare moved to the front left Off Road wheel, but would still need a spare. For about $300 more, I could get an entire new set of P265/70-17 Falken Wildpeak AT3, mounted, balanced, and with replacement certificates...

So, $258 for a new Dunlop, or around $560 (with trading in the other still good Dunlops) for 5 (I think) new Falken A/T tires...seems like a no-brainer, but $560 is not a planned expense...I had pretty much decided to wear out a set of tires for once...

Looks like the last item on my list just got moved up to the front...

Any thoughts?

 

wild peaks...worth every penny and look great to boot! Long thread on another forum with 100s that rate them highly ....oh, find your tire on Walmart, even Amazon, then email discount tire direct. they will send you a coupon good at any store. Some scored a set @ $98 bucks each during a holiday sale.... use it no matter what tire you want, just find a low price
https://www.discounttiredirect.com/customer-service/low-price-guarantee

 

Thanks, I appreciate the input.

 

I wouldn't put any money into replacing Dunlops, personally.

I'd definitely go with new tires all around.

The nice thing is your Dunlops are still worth something to Discount Tire Direct.

 

The rep @ DT did point out yesterday that the Dunlops were worth more to DT now than at anytime going forward, so...

I went ahead and had DT order the Falken tires yesterday, they said they would be in my store sometime today. All they did yesterday was put on my spare. No $$ has changed hands as of this point. I'm going to go over there when they call and most likely will bite the bullet and replace all the tires.

The other option I have is to simply get a used 265/70-17 tire from DT for a spare, and have them mount my new spare on the OR wheel. That would be the least costly. We'll see.

 

One thing I learned the hard way. We all know the dunlaps kinda suck so here they are not worth alot. My discount tire wanted to charge me to take them. I sold mine in less than an hour on Craigslist because I offered the set for 150. Turns out it's a stock size on the f150 and those guys don't know the tires suck....I could have got more $$

 

I talked DT into $50 apiece trade yesterday...seems ok.

 

Nice. Around me they won't do trades

 

New shoes.


My list is complete. Now I can start trying to save money again instead of shelling it out for stuff to put on a 7-month old vehicle...

 

You'll find something else to mod. You've been bitten by the bug

Tires look nice! How do they ride?

 

Looks good! When you get a chance get on a back road or open highway and let er rip!
Had mine on a road trip today and at 85 they were smooth

 

Looks good! I'll be ordering tires as well in the near future

 

Worked out ok, I suppose. I really wasn't looking to spend for tires at this point in time...when I saw that one Dunlop cost $258, and a set of four Falkens, with trading in the Dunlops, cost me $558 out of pocket, mounted, balanced, with replacement certificates, it seemed the better idea. They were on my list for down the road, as it were.

For anyone wondering, the ride with the Falkens is fine, not much stiffer (I asked, they put 38 psi), with a tad more road noise due to the tread pattern. All in all, very nice change. What psi are others running on these tires?

 

I'm not on Falkens, but I've been running 35 in my C rated KO2's and it seems to be working well. It depends on what the load rating is. If the Falkens are the same load rating as stock, I'd go with what the door says.

 

They are the same load rating. I'll check that out, thanks.

 

32psi is what I go with.

 

I forgot to mention in my post regarding the tires that I printed out a page from the Walmart website showing the Falken tires at a lower cost than DT. When I showed that to the rep at Discount, he matched the WM price without any issue.