First Oil Change at 700 miles…..

You might want to consider an extended drain interval filter such as Mobil1's if you're going to go past recommended intervals with the Mobil1 oil. Otherwise your filter might break down before the oil does.

 

Interesting. There have been some engine failures in new BRZs and GR86s and a class action suit has been brought due to some of the engine sealant getting into the oil. I wonder how much if any of the particles you saw were something other than metal. Good to get rid of it whatever it was.

 

Funny you should ask. I did find some interesting nonmetallic things in the bottom of the oil catch pan that I drained the oil into. The oil catch pan was clean before I drained the oil so it could only have come from the first oil change. They appeared to be a sealant type of material. I have been told that this is to be expected to some extent due to the assembly process.

 

The recommended interval is every six month or 10,000 miles. I am sure the factory filter is sufficient for a 7000 mile oil change interval. Just out of curiosity, are you retarded? Asking for a friend.

 

I did my oil change at 6 months and 1272 miles. I did forget to put that little metal clip back on the plastic housing. Is that even needed? I also couldn't get the washer off, tried with 2 different screwdrivers but didn't want to damage it so I left it on since it still looked new.

 

I used a flat head screw driver placed against the side of the washer and gave the screwdriver a good smack with a hammer. It came right off and did no damage to the oil pan. Just be sure the screw driver is almost parallel to the oil pan and only up against the washer, which is metal by the way.

 

Will that washer be ok with Fumoto valve?

 

It possibly would be ok, but if changing out to a Fumoto, I would suggest getting a new gasket installed.

I had a little bit of extra effort to remove my OEM gasket when going to a remote drain.

 

Well, here goes, I hope I don’t get red assed for this. Changed my oil at 500, 1,500 and most recently (2weeks ago) at 5,000 miles. Close inspection at 500 miles revealed shiny particles in filter pleats and filter housing, cleaned housing, shit canned filter. Replaced with OEM Toyota filter and oil. Received a 20% discount on parts, due to purchasing the vehicle at that dealership. At 1,500 miles, 90% of particles gone, just a few in oil filter pleats. Replaced with OEM products. At 5,000 miles particles undetectable with human eye. Replaced with OEM products. Will continue with 5,000 mile intervals, due to off-roading fun lately and light towing.

 

Appreciate your post. It’s your vehicle and your responsibility, do what you think is best and to heck with what others say. I plan to change it again at 1500 and depending on how it looks I might change it again at 2500. From there at 5000 and then every 5000 or 6 months. I’m certain others will say this is crazy, stupid, idiotic….hey that’s cool, whatever. To each their own. The bottom line is it’s my vehicle, my responsibility and my money, not theirs. Have a wonderful day!

 

You might take a look at this instead of a Fumoto valve.

https://www.valvomax.com/products/m12-1-25-quick-twist-valve-with-stainless-drain-tube-knob

 

I have 3 Fumoto's with one on the 4r. Just bought a Valvomax for new car joining the fleet. I think the Valvomax is better design comparing the 2.

But either are better than mess of drain plug. So easy and mess free doing an oil change.

 

Why this over Fumoto? I don’t like how this is made from stainless steel vs brass

 

It looks well designed. A one in a million strike by a stick and the Fumoto drops all of your oil on the trail. Why do you prefer brass over SS?

 

Brass has had examples of shearing. No lever on Valvomax and screw on cap seems better failsafe.

 

The oil drain is behind armor..

I am more concerned with rust

 

I have both and like the Fumoto. Valvomax seems better design. Nice that we have 2 options to pick from.

https://www.4runners.com/threads/new-fumoto-oil-drain-valve-broke-during-install.34520/

 

Dude over torqued it like crazy

 

Agreed. For me stainless is a better choice but to each their own. Not worth replacing my Fumoto's but will be buying the Valvomax for new purchases going forward.

 

Ha! Glad I'm not the only one! Changed mine at 100, 850, 2500, and 3600 (did reuse oil in my daily Frontier). Also installed an inline transmission filter at 50 miles, aluminum shaving reached almost a full ounce!

 

Peace of mind I always change a new car at 1,000 and 5,000. Every 5,000 after. On our new rx500 it was amazing how dirty the first two changes were. Lots of particles on the first change. Not so much second.

 

The 1,600,000 mile tacoma did every 8-10k oil changes

 

If blindly influenced by anecdotal reports, I’d rather follow this guy’s routine

 

Highway 8-10k is equivalent to 2k city tho. Most of us who doesn't drive for a living are usually 30%hwy/70%city.

 

He might have been driving city miles also.

 

Of course there will be some city miles, unless he lives under a bridge. ;-) I would say less than 20%, miles equivalent 3-5k of us common folks. 1.6 million Taco engine was rebuilt at 880k as well.

 

Yea if he would have driven more city miles that truck would have blown up with 8-10k police changes lol

 

I will prolly keep the 4r for 200k miles max . As such I don’t give a s its longevity after that point. 2nd owner’s concern.

 

Did my 23 at 1000 miles and didn't see but just a couple of specs, was actually expecting more, I was pleased

 

Just changed the oil on my '24 @ 1250 miles. I didn't see any metal particles in the filter or the bottom of the housing. The oil was pretty black considering the low mileage. Can't imagine what 10k would look like! I'll never know because I'll stick with the 5k routing regardless of what Toyota specs. I learned my lesson to let the filter housing drain longer. I pulled it too quickly (thought it was drained) and made a bit of a mess. Just curious, what is the metal clip on the outside of the oil filter housing supposed to do? It doesn't look like it would really engage anything. I replaced the plastic housing with an aluminum one and it didn't have the slot to accept the clip so it didn't go back on. When I dropped the drain plug I noticed mine didn't come with a crush washer. Considering how many reminders I've seen on this forum to change that out with every oil change I was surprised that mine was missing. At first I thought it was stuck to the bottom of the pan because there was a slight protuberance, but after hitting it with screw driver a couple of times it was clear that it was part of the pan. Installed the Valveomax draining solution so no more removing the drain plug.