Driver's seat wires not plugged into anything?

Is the Econoline the old basically two door truck...I hope so they were so cool!!! Does it have the fold out side door on the side...or am I mistaken?

 

This is my 61 econoline another one in progress. Had it since 1985. Around 300.000 miles on it with the 144 cu engine. but I'm putting
a 302 ford engine in it soon

 

That's what I thought you had...you have to be an older guy like me...few remember these...

 

this is my 47 ford pickup that will be next

 

Yes I'm an older guy and love my toys hahaha

 

OK guys another question for you. I put a battery in today for the first time in almost 20 years. The fuel pump wont come on. I checked power to fuel pump. No power. put a jumper on the fuel pump check connector and still nothing. I have head lights tail lights and I can get it to crank over but no fuel pump? any info is appreciated thanks

 

The fuel pump is so easy to get to I would fold the rear seat forward (rear seat delete) and on the passenger side there is a plate with about 10 screws...take that off and there is the fuel pump. It's really easy to get out...my guess is the pump is out even though your not registering any power...I hope this helps.

 

Looking good 85Runner.

 

Well I took and pulled the fuel pump. And its all rusted up. Need to replace fuel pump fuel tank and fuel line from fuel tank to the engine.
need to check my parts truck and see what shape it's in and hope I can use it

 

UH...that sucks...I was hoping it was only the fuel pump...I know there is a wash liner that may be able to seal the fuel tank but I think your right to replace the tank and line, fuel pump and I suspect now the injectors, seals and of course the fuel rail is crunchy and will cause new injector problems...yep...your on the right track...Sorry Andy

 

I'm going to replace the tank fuel pump and fuel line. The good news is the engine been rebuild and the injectors been replaced so I'm good there. So until I can get the tank and pump I'm on hold for a couple of weeks.
thanks for your help NightOwl

 

Not a problem...your going to love your 4 Runner once it's up and running...they are Awesome!!! Please post some pictures when your finished!!!

 

It's funny how people will comment on the old 4 Runner's...it's with a little respect in a very complementary way. One of my friends has a newer corvette and when we park together I get more compliments...for those of you that have the old 4 Runners...don't sell it...it's almost an obsession thing that very few possess...

 

I like car's that when people walk by they look at them instead of where there are going and walk into light's or sign posts. I've had a few bad ass street bug's that people couldn't stop looking at. Young and the old.
I don't like the vehicles that every one has. Like the jeeps and broncos. I like the 85 4runner's body style.

 

OK guys I'm looking for the high pressure fuel line from the tank to the hard fuel line on the frame I can't find one any where. I have the fuel tank and fuel pump on order. The high pressure fuel line is all I need to now to get it to run after iI getthe tank and fuel pump. Thanks for any help you guys can give me

 

Just a thought: Did you replace the fuel filter while doing all this? If anything else, it might well be full of gunk after all this time. It's a pita to get in/out, but if the pump and tank are that bad off, what might be in the filter, or the hardlines to/from the tank?

Good luck to you!
Pat☺

 

Yes I have replace the fuel filter and clean out the fuel line's. all I need now is the the fuel line from the tank to the frame. the fuel tank and pump will be here next week

 

Ok, it was just a thought I had. I get so few any more...

 

Not a problem. I appreciate all the help you guy's can give me. This is the first 4runner and 4x4 that I have ever had. I have worked on cars most of my life but not on a 4x4.

 

OK, I've been gone on a trip for work. but now I'm back to work on the 4runner. I got the new fuel tank and pump installed and all hooked up. So I put fuel in the tank and turn the key on and nothing.
I jumped the plug and still nothing. I checked the CO relay under the dash next to the ecu and only have power to the FP connector on the CO plug. not sure where to go from there.
no power to the fuel pump and no power to the starter solenoid????
Any help is Appreciated thanks

 

If you don't have any voltage at the fuel pump with the test connectors jumped, ie: Fp and B+, the wire between the battery and fuel pump is broken, or not connected, somewhere.
If you have a Chilton's, or FSM, there are schematics you can use to trace the system back to the fuel pump. Since, when the test connections are jumpered, you have voltage at the COR, you've eliminated part of the system. The best way to trouble shoot, I've found, after being an electronics (radar) tech, is to break the system in 1/2, figuratively. Go to an approximate 1/2 way point in the system, measure the voltage. Is it there? If it is, break the remaining 1/2, in 1/2. Check it. Is the voltage there? You see? This is the quickest, easiest way to do it.
Make certain all fuses are good, too. Best way is to take them out, stick an ohmmeter on them, and check for continuity. 0 ohms? Great, put it back in and check the next one.

You do have 2 problems here. The fuel pump being inoperative with the test jumper in, and the starter not operating when you turn the key to start. The procedure above will get you to the trouble with the fuel pump.

You can see if the starter is functional by taking a 12 gauge wire, and jumping the battery + to the terminal on the starter with the brown connector plugged into it. I believe it's called terminal C. Make the wire long enough to reach the starter from the battery, put a female terminal on it, hook it to the starter, and touch the battery + terminal.
BE CAREFUL!!! If the starter is functional, it WILL turn when you do this. Whether the truck is in gear, the clutch is engaged or not, the key is off or on, etc. You see the danger? The truck could move, and if the person testing is in front of it...
If the starter turns, it's good. ONLY allow the starter to turn for a VERY short period of time, or you can burn it out. If not, either the starter or it's associated relay, the one ON the starter, is bad. I'm sure you can check a starter out.
Make sure the heavy gauge straight from the starter to the battery is good as well. It doesn't take much corrosion at either end to make the starter inoperative.
IF the starter is functional, then start tracing the voltage path from the battery, to the key, to the starter. Again, look at the schematic, break the system in 1/2, and awaaay you go.

I wish you good fortune! Mine's been working great for me for over 30 years now...
Pat☺

 

Thank you pat for the info. I found the problem for the fuel pump. I feel stupid at the moment. I spent about 4 hours on the 4runner yesterday and couldn't figure it out why the fuel pump had no power. I check the COR relay no power ? checked the wire's for the fuel pump still nothing checked all the grounds. I was getting frustrated so I gave up on it for the night. well today after work I went out and decided to fix it.
so I found that the main relay has something to do with the fuel pump so i check it and notice I had a missing fuse in the fuse panel. well I check on line and found the fuse I was missing was for the ECM. so I found a 15 amp fuse and installed it turned the key and and the fuel pump came on WooHoo. so I'm real close to start it. I have a fuel leak at the fuel filter so I have to get new banjo washers tomorrow after work.

Thanks for everyone's help on here. I will let every one know what happens. Thanks again every one

 

Yeah. They used "crush washers" all through the fuel system. Use em ONCE, then throw them away. Got a leak? Replace the crush washer. Again.
Thankfully, they're cheap, and readily available from the dealership. Probably a lot of other places too, but I buy mine from the dealership. About $0.75 each.
Just be sure you get real, actual, crush washers. Regular washers leak like sieves. Also, ensure you have the right torque value on the banjo fittings. Pretty important. It settles the crush washers in place properly.

Glad you got the FP going, though I'm glad it was something simple and easy to fix.
Remember, do NOT drive with the test jumper for the FP installed. The COR is a very important safety feature. It shuts the FP off if there's an accident, so the fuel system, which has probably sprung a leak someplace after an accident, doesn't have pressurized fuel pumping out. Helps prevent fires that could harm not only you, but the first responders, as well.
One safety feature you DON'T want disabled!

Good luck to you! If we can be any further help, just let us know
Pat☺

 

Well good news. I actually got it to crank over and run for a second or two. when I release the key it stopped. Now the starter won't crank over so I need to check and see why. the starter is a old one so may need to buy one next weekend. so I will keep all posted.

 

Just so you know, both my starters are still factory, and both still work great.

Look over on YotaTech forums for a thread regarding intermittent starts, or something like that.
The whole point is, that Toyota had some lousy electrical designers on the early trucks. The entire current to activate the SOLENOID on the starter, and why can I not recall what it's called??? runs to the key, and back to the starter, terminal C. The little brown connector. It SHOULD be set up so that the key activates a RELAY, that feeds current straight off the battery to the starter SOLENOID.

HA! Just remembered!! It's the starter SOLENOID!!! Sorry-a$$ed old brain of mine...
Look here: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml#OtherOptions

That describes just how Toyota messed up the wiring to the solenoid, and what to do to fix it. It's a super article, and I recommend it to ANYONE having starter problems.
You might give it a look BEFORE you pay for a new starter, which aint cheap for a quality one, go thru the aggravation of pulling the old one out, and worse, installing the new one, to find out that it aint the problem.
It could also just be the solenoid. The brushes wear over time, obviously, and the contacts that apply the battery current to the actual starter motor corrode and get pitted over time, and with use. The solenoid actually comes off and goes on fairly easily. The FSM has an excellent how-to for reworking the solenoid.
All this is presuming you still have problems after the electrical rebuild of the start system, if you need to.

Good luck!
Pat☺

 

Good news the starter is good. I just add a ford starter solenoid so that the wire from the key Goes to the ford solenoid first. Then from the solenoid to the starter.
Works great now. I started the 4runner up for the second time and it started right up and ran and was running good. Still have to finish hooking up the cooling system Before I run it any longer.
Then it's on to the the front diff and rear diff. Then the brakes.
Still have lots of work to do but I'm hopping to be driving it soon.
Thanks for the help.

 

Make sure the last thing you do to the cooling system is "burp" it. Get all the air out. ALL the air.
Easiest way, if you have ramps, or a hill, available, is to park it as nose high as you can. This makes the radiator cap the highest point in the system. Then put the cap on loose, and fire it up, with the heater set to full hot. As it warms up, it WILL flow some coolant into the recovery tank, since the coolant isn't compressible, but the engine will expand as it heats up. Run it till it's good and warm, 20-30 min.
Shut it down, and put the radiator cap on normally. On tight, in other words. Let it cool ALL the way down. Check the recovery tank, and only fill it to the line on the tank. Also, once it's all good and cold, pop the radiator cap, and add any coolant/water you need to top it off. Of course, the red Toyota coolant, mixed 50/50 with distilled water is the best choice. It's more expensive, but it's made for a system that has aluminum and steel in contact, with coolant touching both, allowing differential metal corrosion.

It's a very good idea to get one of the "two-stage" thermostats from Toyota. They prevent the whole "go way hot before the thermostat pops" problem these older Toyotas have.

I, personally, drain and flush mine every 5 years or so. I replace all the main hoses, 3 of them, every year, along with the belts. I keep the ones I take off for emergency spares, and throw the previously saved set away. Same with the regular tune up stuff. Plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor, etc. Yeah, it takes up room in the back, but it's payed off more than once!
Last summer, I finally had to replace all the hoses on the intake plenum. I figure 32 years is a pretty good time in service Them I couldn't keep in the back. I had to cut most of them off.

I don't a darn thing about differentials, other than that the Toyota ones prefer the GL4 type oil, 70W90. I replace mine according to the schedule in the front of the FSM, and the last time I looked at it, it looked like I just pumped it in, after 10 years of use.

When you get the brakes all set and filled, make sure you bleed it all out, including the Load Sensing Proportional Valve, on a frame member above the rear diff. Make sure you bleed the system in the right order, including, if it was off, or empty, the Master Cylinder. That should be first, naturally. Make sure the MC is properly aligned, too. It matters.

Good luck to you! I look forward to updates
Pat☺

 

Hey everyone how are you all doing. Me I'm off work for the next 30 day's or so because of this Corona virus.
I hope every one is well. Me I'm just staying home and working in my shop on my 4runner and maybe my 47 ford pickup. The 4runner is getting closer to move on it's own. Now that I have the time. I can work on the brakes. The power steering. Front and rear shock's. And front drive shaft.
wish you all good health

 

The Haynes Manual has the wire colors on the diagrams.
And early responses about those wires under your seat were correct - they go to the switches in the console for your back window, etc.
I discovered them when I put carpet in and they're just about the ONLY wires I'm sure about.

 

Well the 4runner is up and running. Except it starts and Idles for a few minutes then starts running rough then dies. Then it's hard to start back up. I know it's been on here some where.
thanks