Drive shaft grease new 2023

My take on U-joint seals is: it depends on grease gun. Some power models can create lots of pressure fast. Again a good reason to not trust a dealer tech who usually services Camrys. Almost no cars have zerks anymore.
A hand operated pistol size grease gun is perfect for our drive shaft zerks.
I added a zerk locking nozzel that added speed and accuracy to U-joint greasing-easy on and easy off. I just crawl under truck in driveway and the 1hand pump action is easy.

 

You stuff grease in and the old (and eventually new) grease will come out with a satisfying crackle that you'll have to clean up.

 

Remember the yoke zerk just gets a pump or two.
Do not overfill as it can stop the drive shaft flex or blow the yoke seals.

 

If you grease every 5-10k, where do you think all of the grease goes? Even with only 2 pumps, the old grease will have to go somewhere.

Have there ever been reports of the seal popping out from over greasing?

not hating, just genuinely curious because i keep reading this but no one has ever claimed their seal has actually popped out

 

If you grease the slip yoke regularly, plain lithium grease is fine. The molybdenum disulfide (proverbial "moly paste") is basically a backup in case the grease has severely degraded from lack of servicing. Molybdenum disulfide absorbs water to form sulfuric acid, so in wet environments it accelerates corrosion.

Lucas X-Tra is polyurea grease, fundamentally different base composition from lithium grease. It is not compatible and not intermixable with lithium grease. It works well but once you use it, stick with it and don't switch back to lithium.

Datasheet suggests it satisfies the specs, with the benefits and drawbacks of molybdenum disulfide.

 

Thank you this is fantastic and the feedback/information I was hoping for.

Easy enough, and based on that sage advice, I think I'll pick up a tube of AMSOIL NGLI #2 Synthetic Polymeric Truck, Chassis, And Equipment Grease. Looks like that meets the lithium grease requirement, avoids the corrosion issue, and I don't have to worry that when I'm not around that he will get the incorrect grease and/or mix. Seem to be a simpler/better approach based on the guidance above.

AMSOIL WEB SITE: https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-nlg...fAPAaaPYKAlBpOu1QGP1PtwQYZw8CVlsPYNy2f3RmkN3X
SPEC SHEET: https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2762.pdf
DESCRIPTION: AMSOIL Synthetic Polymeric Truck, Chassis and Equipment Grease (NLGI #1 and NLGI #2) delivers excellent wear protection and extreme-pressure performance over extended service intervals in medium- and heavy-duty applications. It combines select base oils, proprietary synthetic polymeric chemistry, an advanced additive package and a lithium-complex thickener for excellent impact resistance, reliable contaminant control and maximum longevity. AMSOIL Truck, Chassis and Equipment Grease clings tenaciously to metal surfaces, helping to keep rain, snow and other corrosive contaminants from penetrating greasable components. It is formulated with an advanced additive package designed to combat the harmful effects of roadway contaminants, helping components last longer and saving fleets money. AMSOIL Synthetic Polymeric Truck, Chassis and Equipment Grease is recommended for heavy-duty over-the-road tractors and trailers, delivery fleets, dump trucks, refuse haulers, utility fleets, emergency service vehicles, sewer and septic trucks, snow removal vehicles, wreckers, municipal service vehicles, equipment haulers, cement mixer trucks, airport support vehicles and more. In addition, its long service life reduces the need for frequent re-application (or requires less grease at each servicing), reducing maintenance costs.

 

I greased my u joints for the first time at 15k miles and they were pretty much full so I’m sure they came greased from the factory (the stealership will never touch my truck and I guarantee they don’t grease your zerks ever unless they charge you a few hundred to do so)

anyone can do it I bought a grease gun years ago at your local vato zone for 30bucks you also need to grease your aftermarket ucas

 

Can’t quote instances of that happening, but a grease gun has enough force to extend the slip yoke when it all fills up…. Just based on fluid’s resistance to being compressed, I’d rather be safe to avoid a hydrolock type situation in the slip yoke.

The seals blowing out on hard suspension stroke is probably better than transfering hydraulic forces onto the transfer case/trans mounts. So I’d also take a guess that plugs may even be a
“fusible link”

 

I pumped slip yokes, then removed the the zerks, jumped in the truck, almost no grease came out from the front one, the back one oozed out some.

 

Same here. I did mine last weekend, and I barely pumped any at all before grease started coming out of the spider joints. Plus I could see where grease had been flung onto the under carriage, so someone somewhere had greased the drive shaft when new. I only did 3 pumps into each of the slip yokes.