Drive shaft grease new 2023

I settled on this product for both spider and slip yoke (and ball joints)


Amsoil Synthetic Polymeric 5% Moly
Polymeric EP (Extreme Pressure)
Polymeric Truck Chassis, NLGI2, Lithium, Ball Joints & Universal Joints

 

The Lock'n Lube brand grease gun comes with the lock'n lube coupler and is $77 on Amazon US. If you don't already have a grease gun...which I don't.

 

I just checked on Amazon for the kit you mentioned, $168 CAD. here. Spend money to save money I’ll have to tell my wife, lol.

 

For this one? https://a.co/d/dUvl3sn

 

For this one. I think the one you showed I can order directly from them in the US, but then shipping, import fees and conversion almost equals the same. With shipping and exchange rates, same procedure definitely cost more for us up here, sucks.

 

Time for a roadtrip to an AMZN pickup location south of the border!

 

The Macnaught k32 grease gun is on sale for $35 on Amazon. The lock and lube is about $34. For $69 total, this is a way better deal. Much better grease gun.

 

This should do on the slip yoke.

Gotta pickup some lithium grease and a grease gun tomorrow.

 

Can anyone confirm the number of grease fittings on a 2wd. Most write ups and discussion are on 4wd. Thanks!

 

4 pumps in the slip every 5k miles (oil change). The rest I pump until I see new grease and then wipe them down. Don’t overfill the slips.

 

3.

 

Thx for the fast response!! Any chance you have pics of the locations? I was only able to locate two so far.

 

Ignore the front.

 

Second look - I don’t think you have a slip yoke. I believe you won’t have the one in the middle. Just two at the ends.

 

So just numbers 4&8?

 

Yes. Just the two spiders.

 

Reviving this here, since I just greased all mine for the first time since owning the vehicle (20k so far). Gave about 10 pumps to each slip yoke to go on the safe side-no issues with the spiders yokes as usual. No bulging of the yoke was noticed by me.

Would the air that could be trapped in the slips work its way out over a couple thousand miles as it is not an air tight seal?

Any thoughts on this regarding what was mentioned before-needing to remove the zerk fitting in order to relieve the pressure or just letting the natural movement work it out over time?

 

If you didn't feel a lot of resistance after ten pumps, it might have been pretty dry to start with. I unscrew the zerks a few turns to relieve pressure only if I feel much resistance after 4-5 pumps. So far, that's two times out of three.

 

They’re not sealed joints so they will work themselves out as you drive.

 

Perfect. Knowing this, one should not expect to see grease being expelled then doing the servicing it seems. I'll check for grease residue next week on the shafts.

 

For the joints I pump until the old stuff is pushed out. For the slip joints I do about 5-10 and never see anything. Never had an issue so far.

 

Another option over the LocknLube. No experience with either just came across this on a Amazon search.

https://www.amazon.com/MASRIN-Greas...2&sr=1-1-61bf7050-ae74-401d-8cd4-f22b66b7f5ac

 

I'm just curious, do you use Thixogrease on any of your heavy equipment? I used Thixogrease on the tail rotor drive splines on the Bell Helicopters that I used to take care of. The splines on the helicopter withstand a much larger amount of torque than say an automotive driveshaft on the 4Runner. Thixogrease is an NLGI #2 grease, yet can withstand far higher pressures than comparable NLGI #2 from the automotive store. Plus Thixogrease has an added benefit: anti corrosive.

 

My 90 came with plugs in the ball joints, I pulled them and put in angled zerks when new. I grease them and u-joints every ~20k miles. 34yrs/240k miles later I am still on the original ball and u-joints…..confession…I use whatever grease that happens to be in the gun at the time and it seems to make no difference in the long run, I think just doing it makes the difference. The rubber on the ball joints have been torn for quite awhile so their days are numbered but still not loose, I still give them a pump…, the u-joints still show no signs wear/slop. I just give the slip joints two pumps. Note: very low miles the last 8 yrs as most are off road.
Don’t overthink this, just do it.

 

Team,

Looking to help a friend with his 2023 TRD Pro V6 4x4 4Runner. He's not mechanically inclined and trying to give him a hand to save him some $$$ and be a good friend.

From reading threads and watching YouTube Toyota recommends two types of grease, one for the spider joint, and another for the slip yoke:
https://trail4runner.com/2021/03/03/propeller-shaft-maintenance-how-to-guide-5th-gen-4runner/

• Spider Joint: Lithium base chassis grease (NLGI No. 2)
• Slip Yoke: Molybdenum-disulfide lithium base chassis grease (NLGI No. 2) or Lithium base chassis grease (NLGI No. 2)

First Question: According to the web page above, the owner's manual states it is acceptable to use NLGI No. 2-grade lithium base chassis grease for both spider joints and slip yokes. I don't have access to my buddy's manual to verify. I also don't know if it it is wise to deviate from what is typically good Toyota guidance and use the same grease for both. Appreciate any insight.

Second Question: I have been using Lucas Oil X-Tra Heavy Duty Grease (NGLI #2 GC-LB) in my 2017 5.7L SR5 Toyota Tundra and very happy after switching from Lucas Oil Red 'n Tacky (NGLI #2 GC-LB). From the website, it states, "more stable than all conventional lithium grease" however, it does not indicate if that's a standard lithium, molybdenum-disulfide lithium, or both, or it can be used interchangeably. Appreciate any insight as the Technical data linked below didn't provide the answer I was looking for (or I missed it - likely).

Third Question: If I do need to use molybdenum-disulfide lithium base chassis grease (NLGI No. 2) for the slip yoke, any thought on the Lucas Heavy Duty Mining & Construction Grease?

Thank you in advance for the help!

Lucas X-Tra Heavy Duty Grease Main Page
https://www.lucasoilcenter.com/shop/lucas-oil-products/grease/lucas-xtra-heavy-duty-grease/
Lucas X-Tra Heavy Duty Grease Technical Data:
https://www.lucasoilcenter.com/shop/lucas-oil-products/grease/lucas-xtra-heavy-duty-grease/




Lucas Heavy Duty Mining & Construction Grease
https://www.lucasoilcenter.com/shop...lucas-tire-hd-mining-and-construction-grease/
Lucas Heavy Duty Mining & Construction Grease Technical Data
https://www.lucasoil.com/pdf/TDS_HD_Mining_Construction_Grease.pdf

 

Any off the shelf NLGI No. 2 grease. No need to complicated it. It's a Toyota, it will run on water.

 

I read so many posts stating NLGI No. 2 grease was acceptable for both, as @whippersnapper02 said, I just went with the Lucas Red N Tacky NLGI 2. I don't see the need for 2 grease guns.

 

I mean if you have a massive garage and a lot of time to waste then sure but these aren't exotic cars. It just wants lube. Just don't use Diddy Lube.

 

A detailed probing question session is worth having anytime you let a dealer service writer write up your truck.
My questions go like this: is oil change done with bulk oil or Toyota bottle oil-
Same for diff lube & TC lube.
Request grease for drive shaft zerks-always skipped in routine service, or best do it yourself to not damage seals or overfill yoke. Chances are the technician never used a grease gun before.
If you took the time to properly set your tire pressures say Do Not Air up tires. Dealers always add air.
Ask for old oil filter and supply them a zip lock bag or two. Ask for box packaging any parts you pay for (oil filter).
Tell them no snake oil additives in the lubes used servicing your truck.

 

other than the yoke can you blow the seals? I was under the impression that you fill until you see grease exit like on the Tundra? Is that not the case on the 4Runner?