Changing oil every 2,000 miles

Lol. if you ask me 2K is kinda risking it

 

LOL !! I too am old enough to remember those days. Those old VW air-cooled engines used straight 30 motor oil. Yes, 2.5 quarts in the engine. The left over half-quart was used in the oil bath air cleaner. Actually, the Factory recommended oil change interval was every 1500 miles (not a mis-print). With every 3,000 miles changing the oil and oil screen. Also at 3,000 miles a complete tune-up: Plugs, plug boots, points, condenser, rotor, distributor cap, and checking/setting all the valves (they were solid lifters). We use to set the distributor dwell/timing using a 12V light bulb with a pigtail. LOL These engines were late 1940's technology and were real maintenance hogs.

 

When my wife was given a '68 Beetle in the mid-80s, she had no idea what a PITA it would be. The 1500 mi oil change with the six nuts and the metal screen were the easiest part. I had to rebuild the entire brake system and suspension on a gravel driveway in a sub-zero Iowa winter. It had an aftermarket starter button in the engine compartment because it constantly got vapor lock when stopped in hot weather and it had the dreaded weak cylinder (the one that doesn't get air flow). Still, I learned a lot from doing all that.

 

One could..argue if using conventional oil and driving it in severe/extreme conditions, every 2k.

 

Arguing is what we do best here. The Maintenance Guide says that the normal oil change interval is 10k miles, and 5k is the interval for extreme conditions. 2k is for the super badasses who regularly defy death by hazarding their trucks in ultra-extreme conditions. Like towing a 10,000 lb trailer to the summit of Mt. Everest. Or driving over lava fields. ;-)

 

Yes. I know no one who uses conventional oil, but 3k for conv. was/is the norm. So if they floor it at every green light, drive to work uphill both ways, do power slides into the parking spots like Ace Ventura, I'll vouch for the 2k changes.

 

I mean toyota *did say* 4Runner is an off roader

 

When 3k was the norm, so was straight 30 weight.

 

Oh, the memories. My first car was a 67 type III so you can add balancing airflow with 2 carbs to that list.

I added a toilet paper roll oil filter mounted under the backseat opposite the battery.

It was very maintenance intensive and the brake system was a weak point. I replaced three master cylinders during my 20 years with that car.

I did love that old car though, all 44 HP worth.

 

Yes, that was cylinder #3. It received the least amount of cooling. #3 exhaust valve would be the first thing to let go and blow the engine. That's why I would set that one valve just a tad loose from spec. It made the engine run a little louder, but helped that cylinder run a little cooler and last longer. My brother and I got to the point we could pull the engine out in about an hour.
For sure, the cars did not like very hot or very cold weather. (Although with snow tires they ran through snow very well).
In really cold weather, first start of the day, I would use a 1/2" ratchet with a 17mm (I think) socket and turn the crankshaft over a half dozen times. That way it would start the oil moving through the engine first. Made it easier to start. LOL

 

Modern conventional isn't like 70s conventional. You could easily go 5K miles with it.

 

My brother was in auto mechanic school at WACC. He brought me home 4 VW basket case engines, freebees. The parts were all mixed up but everything was there. So every time a valve would let go in # 3 and rattle around in the bottom end I'd grab a bunch of parts and make a replacement engine. I never worried if the parts were for the 1300 CC or the 1500. I'd just throw parts together on a Saturday morning. I'd sit the "remanufactured" motor on the end of an 8 ft 2 x 6 laid on a cement block, give the neighbor kid $1 to stand on the other end of the board which lifted the engine into perfect position to slide in and bolt up.

Got to where I could do one from start to finish in about 3 hours. Oh, and I never threw the oil away. I'd run that 30 wt through a rag and put it right back in.

That beetle ran like a raped ape... for a while...

 

Shorty: That is a hilarious story LOL !!! But sounds so typical with the old Beetles. I was lucky that one day while scrounging through a auto savage yard, I found an old, scissors type automatic transmission jack. With the car jacked-up on all 4's, and a couple short 2 X 6's on top of the jack, it worked perfect for raising and lowering the engine. I could do it all myself. LOL

 

I do mine every 3500 or 6 months in every car I have ever owned. It has always done well.

 

Lol hilarious

 

always oil thread hahaha. I will beat the ops and will change every 1990 miles with a brand new Toyota filter. ahhaha

 

I change my oil every 2k miles.
I’m also 6’3” with only $3k in credit card debt and I have a Costco executive membership.
I don’t care what anyone says.

 

Going in the other direction here:

My Hybrid Rav4 asks for oil changes every 10,000 miles (same as the standard Rav4, and every other Toyota now, I think). However, being a hybrid, the gas engine only runs about half the time, and rarely idles at a stop.

Does this mean I can go 20,000 miles between oil changes? At 10,000 on the car, maybe the engine only has 5,000?

 

That mileages has the math baked into it. And if you want your rings to not get mucked up, earlier the better.

 

Don't worry, I'll change it on time, just thinking out loud. 10,000 is plenty of time for me between changes.

It's due today, so I pulled the dipstick and it's like a medium color vs. my 4R at 10,000, which is why I started thinking about it.

I'm guessing there's also some extra wear from the constant start/stop it does, so it is probably a wash like you say.

 

I claim that since hybrid crowd tends to sway more city dwelling, its more stressful on engine than highway driving.
Those who do it every 2000 miles for regular ICE, should do it every 1000 miles oil change for a hybrid.
Clearly everyone who is waiting till 10K for a change is pushing it

 

Every 100 miles for me

 

You sir are a baller!

 

We have the rav prime, most days the engine doesn’t come on, but at 10k yota wanted that oil change. What I also don’t like the fact that EV miles are not recorded separate from the ICE miles.

 

For drivers running slow trails, inner city traffic or daily idling managing oil changes by engine hours or gasoline used makes more sense.

 

i just change my oil at 1000 miles today probably didnt need it but i have been doing this with every new car ive had and not going to stop now. 6 months or 5 thousand miles i will change it again.

 

My 15 Tacoma has the same engine. 6000-7000 oci on M1 EP or Amsoil XL. A few runs on Amsoil SS 0W30 for 10K. 126K.

 

Brand doesn't matter.... repeat after me

 

That's what I was thinking. The skid plate bolts will be worn out

 

Twice on the weekend?