Behind grille lights with TSS

I just love the look of the round style lights behind the grille. I’m still curious if they make a harness that connects the 2 separate lights together or if you have to somehow splice the 2 harnesses together yourself. I don’t want to have to turn each LP on themselves, and just want them to be wired together with 1 button.

 

Contact bajadesigns. I’m pretty sure if you go with the LP4’s or 6’s both of those lights connect together with one wire and you run the other wire inside the interior thru the firewall. I’m doing that which ever way I go. I already have my on board switch and Paul from bajadesigns told me how to hook it up. I gave him the schmatics on the wiring. I have been back any forth on this my self. First I was doing the LP’4 or 6’s. Because I bought the NFab mount. Then I found other forum member adding the 20 inch led bar behind the grille on the Pro. I could do both and it will light up the sky.lol.

 

I looked it up, the harness does connect the 2 lights together to a single switch!

 

Wondering what OEM light switch you run with the Baja lights. I didn't want to drop the $$ on the Switch Pro board, but I still want to use the 3 light settings. Any suggestions?

 

I’m using one on board switch for my 20 Led bajadesigns light bar. And the other switch soon to hook up for the back lighting.

 

Hi, I have this mount for sale if you are looking to run LP4’s.

 

Any updates on this set up? I just ordered the light bar from N-Fab. I like the BD lights. It will be a nice compliment to the upper grill lights from Diode Dynamics.

 

Hi folks,
Anyone know what NFab bracket used by @Rabid Raccoon?


I'm trying to see If I could to something similar (behind grill) using this area.



I used to have Rago mounts on my TRD ORP but this time I want something simple.

 

Rago Fab bracket and cross member with Diode Dynamics SS5 driving pattern lights. I have since switched to spot pattern lenses.

 

Thank you @Too Stroked. Since I have experiance with Rago before its not worth this time.

I'm trying to be lazy and cheap this time. Since this is behind grill I don't feel like spending & time too much. So looking at something cheap just to help my 2nd high beams and 2x 6in light bars. I just need 2 spots to light straight ahead as my Diode Dynamics ss6 does not produce much light straight ahead, its more of a spread / dull focus.

 

Without looking at your bar, I can't say for sure, but it sounds like you have the wrong beam pattern. I too was looking more for distance than peripheral lighting and I figured the driving pattern would be way better than fog or flood. It was good, but I wanted more focus and distance, so I swapped lenses for spots. Here's what mine looks like now. The road falls away about 300 yards ahead.

 

I got the SAE/DOT driving one.



Too bad I cannot turn on just the light bars this is my 2nd set of high beam bulbs + diode dynamics SS6 (stock headlights turned off). No idea about the distance but this is at the soccer field parking lot. I wonder if I can change the SAE/Driving lens to a no BS offroad use only spot beam?





This is just the diode dynamics SS6 on garage wall when I was installing. Its little softer for the price imo.

 

First, 99% of the population would be absolutely thrilled with that pattern and that much light. Second, I don't believe they offer a spot pattern for the Stage bars. My old DD 30" Stage bar (all driving pattern) now resides in / behind the lower grill in my son's 2013 Scion tC. He absolutely loves it even though technically it's mounted too low for that light pattern. However, the SS5's are available in a spot pattern. Hint, hint.

 

I just ran out to look at this area and noticed the holes you circled are threaded. I'm curious about adding light to the lower grille area as well and I want to avoid removing the bumper. It would be great to use these threaded holes as they have access from the front and I'm sure you could fit a tool between the grille openings. It would probably have to be a custom bracket or maybe an aftermarket company is willing to develop a bolt on bracket for these.
The only aftermarket bracket that did not require removing the bumper is the old KC Hilites brackets which are discontinued. Everything else (Rago, DiodeDynamics, Cali Raised, Baja Designs, NFab, etc.) require removing the bumper. If you are just looking for the NFab bracket, this seems to be the only one they offer:https://n-fab.com/lbm-bumper-light-multi-mounts/2020/toyota/4runner

 

Yeah that NFab bracket seems too much work and need to remove bumper.

Yes those threaded holes or even the empty holes next to it seems like a good potential for some round lights. If I'm luck I could find some left over brackets that came with the lights I have purchased in the past or may be look for a custom "L" shaped bracket so I could easily fix a light.

 

If it makes you feel any better, removing the whole front bumper cover is about a 10-minute gig. Yes, a second person comes in handy for the last step (actually removing it), but it's really quite straight forward. Trust me, I've had mine off about 4 times as I've searched for the perfect lighting solution.

 

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm confident removal is simple, but I've seen the threads regarding bumper fitment issues. Anytime you remove body panels, there is a chance of poor fitment and I would like to avoid that at all cost.
I took another look at the NFab bracket and there is a chance it can be installed without removing the bumper. The existing cooling line bracket bolts and the two core support/crash bar bolts can simply be removed by sticking tools from the underside of the truck. The only part that is unclear is fastening the "multi-mount" bracket. Not sure how much clearance for tools is left after the bracket is in place.

 

Found some brackets that seems perfect fit for behind grill. Next step to find the size of the nut fits to that threaded hole. I was easily able to put my hand there. So probably not need to remove the bumper depending on the lights I purchase.

 

Nice, but not very beefy. You might end up with some bounce depending on how heavy the lights are. The longer distance the beam pattern and strength, the worse it will be. You might consider these. I've used them before, and they're bullet proof:

Superstrut 2-Hole 90 Degree Angle Strut Bracket - Silver Galvanized ZAB201EG-10 - The Home Depot

Superstrut 4-Hole 90 Degree Angle Strut Bracket - Silver Galvanized ZAB205EG-10 - The Home Depot

 

This, in combination with @Too Stroked recommended brackets, seems promising. Figuring out which bolts to use is always the most difficult. Let me know if you make any discoveries.

 

Thats a smart and simple idea

 

You have a Flood pattern. You want a Spot pattern. When you buy "fog" or "driving" lights, select the pattern you are looking for. So your issue is not the manufacturer, its the fact you bought the wrong pattern lights.

 

100% its my fault buying driving light assuming it give a sharp pattern like a spot pattern as shown on the website in real life but I think when it is SAE/DOT they are not allowed to use a sharp light pattern.

 

Not sure what you mean by "sharp". The spot pattern (they are calling it "Driving") is a DOT compliant pattern, I'm guessing they just have not submitted those spot for DOT approval or they produce too much light and do not fall within the DOT parameters?

 

Found the bolts too. I think these came from the Nilight pods package on my TRD ORP. It says 8.8 on top of the bolt. Don't know if that means anything or help anyone.

Next step pick the right lights. Not too big that will block too much air from the radiator. I bet this would take the most of my time getting comfortable thinking about the heat.

 

8.8 is the grade (similar to strength) of the bolt. You would need the size and thread pitch for others to be able to buy bolts that are the same. 1/4-20, 10-32, M6x1, etc Length is usually important as well but if this is threading into the crash bar, it’s hollow and length wouldn’t really matter

 

I wouldn't worry too much about heat if you go with a reputable brand of LED lights. (Halogens are a different story.) With LEDs, most of the heat is generated by the drivers and exits via the heat sinks on the back side of the pods. As for what brand, you already know who gets my vote.

 

Ohh sorry I wasn't clear. I mean the engine heat by blocking the radiator.

 

I wouldn't lose too much sleep over that either. I tow this all the time and the coolant temperature is just fine.

 

Forgot lights. 250hp on that boat? Must feel like a rocket on water..!!