1. Welcome to 4Runners.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all 4Runner discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other 4Runner owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

ATG Parker's 91 4Runner Build

Discussion in '2nd Gen Builds (1990-1995)' started by atgparker, Mar 15, 2021.

  1. Aug 30, 2024 at 5:22 AM
    #31
    atgparker

    atgparker [OP] Cal Poly, ETME 1988

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2018
    Member:
    #6296
    Messages:
    335
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Andrew
    Mission Viejo, CA
    Vehicle:
    1991 White 4Runner 3.0 L
    Rebuilt Engine MLS and ARP on the heads, DT Header, 2-1/2" CARB compliant Flow-Master CAT with 2.0" Bosal CAT back Dayco 1-1/4" Spacers, SkyJacker M-Series Monotube Shocks, Ball Joint Spacers. 95-9006 K&N Air Cleaner, G-Plus Alum Radiator, ZIrgo 16" Fan, Derale Temp switch/relay
    Update on the 4Runner for 2024. The 170 Amp alternators bearings are making a ton of noise so back in went the OEM 50 Amp Denso. I think the uprated 170 Amp Alternator with its smaller pulley just kills the bearings prematurely as this has been in service since 2019 and would be about 4 years old which really stinks.

    I have had a problem keeping the T-100 front anti roll bar centered since I put in the modified bump-stop bracketry. So I have added a couple of aluminum plates to space the bar away from the frame a small amount and then added a pair of aluminum split collars that clamp around the diameter of the bar. They are shoved up tight against the inside of the frames rubber bushings and this stops the bar from laterally translating through the bushings as the link rods are not quite at the same angle which would cause the bar to migrate and start to rub on the rear bottom out snubber and bracketry which as you can see in the picture is a fairly tight fit as the anti-roll bar goes around the outside of the snubber shown here with the suspension at ride height.
    20240830_050227.jpg
    This picture has reminded me that the PowerStop brake kit with drilled and slotted rotors has been replaced as I managed to ruin a rotor by letting the pads go to nothing. Must be getting old!...

    The power steering pump is leaking yet again but this time the Trail Gear 1,650 psi uprated pump kit will be replacing it.
    3.0L PICKPU 4RUNNER POWER FLOW 1650PSI POWER STEERING PUMP KIT (trail-gear.com)
     
    fiddy5000 likes this.
  2. Sep 8, 2024 at 12:55 PM
    #32
    atgparker

    atgparker [OP] Cal Poly, ETME 1988

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2018
    Member:
    #6296
    Messages:
    335
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Andrew
    Mission Viejo, CA
    Vehicle:
    1991 White 4Runner 3.0 L
    Rebuilt Engine MLS and ARP on the heads, DT Header, 2-1/2" CARB compliant Flow-Master CAT with 2.0" Bosal CAT back Dayco 1-1/4" Spacers, SkyJacker M-Series Monotube Shocks, Ball Joint Spacers. 95-9006 K&N Air Cleaner, G-Plus Alum Radiator, ZIrgo 16" Fan, Derale Temp switch/relay
    The OEM power steering pump is a rather leak prone device. So now that it is yet again spewing I decided to solve this problem with a Trail Gear Rock Assault Power Steering upgrade kit. The challenge is installing this and keeping the AC lines and system intact which I have managed to do. The key is to mount the reservoir to the plenum on the 3.0L engine and forgo using the TG bracket. This does make the EGR-delete rather a permanent affair and will have to reconcile that when I have to get it smogged again next year. A simple three hole adapter plate is fashioned from some 1/8" thick aluminum plate with an M6 torx headed flat head used to fix the bracket to the threaded hole that was for mounting the EGR valve. I had to purchase and extra AN10 x 5/8 slip on 120° Elbow to make the suction line to the pump work and I reused my longer original fan belt as the one supplied in the kit is shorter and I could not see how to position the pump to make this work. Some grinding of the supplied bracket to mount the pump was needed to rotate things to an acceptable position. 20240908_122911.jpg
    The oil cooler by the instructions in the kit calls for removal of the AC's pusher fan which I did not do. So it is fixed to a welded in bar with steel strip that works well when the steering stops for the pitman arm and idle arm are used. All of this is below the radiator and just clears the steering center link and steering damper. The location allows for easy plumbing from the steering gears return line to the cooler and then from the cooler to the OEM cooler pipe that sends the fluid back the reservoir.
    20240908_123146.jpg
    I made a plate and put an 8 watt, 4" box fan on top of it to pull air through the lower portion of the oil cooler and it is triggered by a Deral thermal switch.
    20240908_123100.jpg
    I may need to pop some holes through the skid plate at some point!...
     
To Top