5100s and lift

Here's an interesting tidbit for you Bilstein/Eibach front adjustable + rear shocks with stock springs wanting folks:

Had to run by the dealership today, and while I was in there, I thought "why not see what they would charge to install this?" Right, I know...anyway, they quoted me $130/hr labor, with 5 hrs. for R&R of the front shocks, and 3 hrs. for R&R of the rear shocks, + $100 for alignment...$1140 labor and alignment to install 4 shocks. Granted, it's a bit more than remove and replace, but still...I could fly one of you out here to help me for less than that...

Problem with Abq. is I haven't yet found a decent installer yet. I've always done this type of work in the past by myself, not interested this time around.

 

This is a great thread. Someone help me sum this up please. I don't want hardly any lift. I'm looking to get rid of most of the body roll when driving down the road, and help with the rake when breaking. It seems that if I get 5100s all around and set the front at .85, I'm golden? Also I like a stiff ride put the Biltstein 4600s on my 2006 Pathfinder back in the day. Thank you in advance!

 

Yep, that sounds like it'll do exactly what you want it to. I'm sure you'd be happy with that set-up.

 

It's really easy to do by yourself using the "no spring compressor method." I think the front end took me roughly 2 - 2.5 hours going slow and being methodical. If you tackle it on your own, at the end of it I bet you'll say, "shit, that really was easy." The worst part is the anticipation beforehand. Once your in there all it is is loosening a few bolts, swapping some parts, and re-tightening said bolts.

 

Well, considering that the dealership wants over twice what the shocks cost just for labor, and in the event I cannot locate another shop, if I want to run a set of Eibach shocks, I will have to do it myself.

I've done suspension work on Jeeps for decades, and finally sold off my last Wrangler prior to buying this 4R...I was thinking those days were behind me, but I still want this Eibach setup, so...it'd be nice to find a 5th gen owner here willing to give a hand. But I could tackle it.

 

Just saw that you have KDSS, so I'm not sure how that will change your install method, but this link will definitely have some helpful information.

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3270

 

If it weren't for the KDSS, I wouldn't give doing the install myself a second thought.

 

I don't think the KDSS is that much harder.

This might help. Maybe someone in this thread who's done it can walk you through the steps https://www.4runners.com/threads/best-way-to-lift-or-level-kdss-system.3120/

 

I just installed the 5100’s at 1.75 and a 3/4 inch cornfed kit for the rear. I was able to do it by disconnecting the passenger side kdss crossbar attachment and the connection of the kdss to the passenger side lower control arm. I put a spare jack under the crossbar to control the movement up and down. I never disconnected anything in regards to the kdss on the driver side.

 

I appreciate your input, thank you. Would you be able to provide a photo of the kdss passenger side crossbar attachment you disconnected, just for reference? If you have any other install pics, that would be great. If not, no biggie.

I'd also be interested in what you had to disconnect, if anything other than the shocks, to install the rear Cornfed spacers, as I had considered the next setting up on the front plus a rear spacer also.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4s7hI_3Pb4A

Here is a link that shows how to get the crossbar back on. He disconnects both sides. I was able to keep the boot side connected and only disconnect the solid arm on the passenger side. Hopefully the link works.

 

The bolts on the far side of the sway bar in picture are the other bolts I removed. It allowed me to separate the bar from the lower control arm. You may be able to do it without removing those bolts and separating the lca.

 

So in watching that video clip, what you did as far as "disconnecting the passenger side kdss crossbar attachment and the connection of the kdss to the passenger side lower control arm" was take out the bolts on the bracket circled in red below, just on the passenger side?

 

I removed these bolts also. The bottom of that metal bracket is hooked onto to lower control arm.

 

Thank you. Sorry for all the questions, I just don't want to screw anything up...

 

No worries. There isn’t a lot of information on how to do it that I could find. There might be an easier way but this worked for me.

 

At least you had the nerve to go ahead, even though the information is lacking, I applaud you for that. And, it will help me in the end, I'm sure.

 

I stopped by the tire/suspension shop that installed front 5100's on my tundra to level it a few years ago. I inquired what it would take to raise the rear 1" and level the front of a 2020 4runner. He insisted it could be done with Bilstein shocks only, no spacers or spring adjustments on the rear. Does that sound right? Obviously I'm not too mechanically inclined.

 

The front 5100’s are height adjustable with your stock springs. The rear 5100’s allow up to a 2 inch lift but do not lift the 4runner without spacers or lift springs.

 

This is correct. The springs are what do the lifting both front and back.

In the front, your springs are connected to the 5100's with different height settings that raise your spring up, which in turn lifts you truck.

In the rear, the springs and shocks are independent of one another. So in order to lift the rear, you need either a taller spring or a spacer on your rear spring.

 

Thanks guys, that is what I thought based on comments here.

 

16 pages of (some) photos of the billies @ .85 in front/stock rear, for the most part. Even though that was the requested photo, there's always those that throw in photos of other setups. I guess that's ok for comparison. What gets me the most is before and after photos in completely different light or at different angles, where you have a hard time discerning the after at all...or tires on black wheels on a dark 4R, photographed in the shade, and you can't see squat.

Several opted for fronts @ 1.75 with spacers in the rear...

 

I didn't want to create a new thread so I thought I'd hop on this one. I'm pretty new to lifts and suspension so I apologise for all of the questions I am about to ask (bare with me, there will be a lot). I have a '16 Limited and want to put 275/65/R18s on them, with also an increase in height (and to reduce the nose dive). I was thinking about getting 5100s for the front and rear, with OME coil springs for the rear (and possibly the front). I read that it is better to leave the front 5100s at stock height then achieve the lift using longer coil springs, although most of the posts I've seen have people using the 5100s for the lift while keeping the stock coil springs. I use my truck for on-road driving 99% of the time, so I was wondering if it would be fine for me to do that without any major drawbacks. Also if the 5100s would be sufficient to reduce nose dive, or if using non-stock coil springs in addition would further help with that. I want a 2.5" lift, so I've read that many people use OME 895E 1.5" coil springs for the rear. My dilemma is that the 895E seems to be discontinued and the only currently-available rear OME coil springs give a 2" lift, so any input on alternative 1.5" coil springs (or if the 895E is still available) would be greatly appreciated. I live in Canada so a Canadian site would be preferred to avoid customs duties. Another option I've noticed is to put spacers in the rear, so I was curious if 1.5" rear spacers were a decent alternative instead. I'm not necessarily looking for the cheapest option to lift my vehicle, but for the best value for my (mostly) pavement driving. Lastly (finally, I know) I wanted to know if 275s would work with the 2.5" lift without rubbing, trimming, or any other modification. Thank you in advance to whoever will take the time to read my post and answer my questions.

TL;DR numerical questions:

1. Any drawbacks to using the shocks for the lift as opposed to longer springs (for on-road driving)?

2. Will the 5100s reduce nose dive or will I need better springs as well?

3. What are some other 1.5" rear springs I could use instead of 895Es (unless they are available)?

4. Would 1.5" rear spacers be a decent alternative?

5. Will 275s fit with a 2.5" without rubbing or modification?

Again, I really appreciate all of your help.

 

I got a great deal on 5100s and finally got them installed today. The ride is great and it looks pretty level. I had the fronts set at .85 as suggested here.

 

Looks great!

 

1. No
2. May see a reduction in nose dive, best bet is to get better coils.
3. Plenty of options. Eibach, icon, toytec, etc.
4. If you’re driving on pavement 99% of the time yes, but ride quality may be noticeably reduced.
5. Yes, they will fit stock as well.

Honest recommendation is to go with the 5100 up front, preload it to achieve some lift and get spacers for the rear. That’s the way I’d go if I knew I wouldn’t see dirt and was strictly doing it for looks and bigger tires.

 

The ride is completely different. it's pretty amazing now. After getting the Sprint Booster, the 5100s and maybe the TRD CAI for cool sounds. This is the vehicle I wanted!!

 

Couple of small items on these vehicles can make a big difference.

Glad you're happy.

 

I'm going to go with the 5100s up front set at .85 along w 275 KO2s all the way around. I will often have 200+ lbs of dog in the rear, plus sometimes camping gear. Hoping avoid the reverse rake when loaded down. Is there a spring of choice I could utilize in the rear (w the OEM strut)?

 

Thank you for the photo's! This look is exactly what I want on my 2020SR5P. So to achieve that same look, all I need is the Bilstein 5100's (saw that I could buy it a pair on tire rack for $248) and have them installed. No additional parts necessary?