2022 Limited Full Build

Hell yeah, I’m in Lansdale. At least for the time being.
It’s a work in progress. JL vx1000/5 powering Focal 6.5 components in front and a 12TW3 in the back. Just enough sound mat but I think I need some more. I really wanted to stay factory looking in the dash with the factory HU but I’m tired of chasing the sound I’m used to and looking for. Any tweaks made with the DSP either leaves something on the floor or just muddys it up
I see an Excelon in my near future. Where in Doylestown are you?

 

I’m up by collegeville now, but lurking in bucks/montco still.

sounds like a sweet build, perhaps we’ll have to get a southeast pa audio day going somewhere.

what are you doing about the signal? Sounds like a fix 82/86 may be what you need.

 

That would be cool. I’d like to check out what your putting together.
Do you think a Fix would correct the signal to that degree? Seems to me it would be too much processing at that point although it would be cheaper than a new Kenwood. It sounds like the factory unit crushes everything, probably to protect the shit OEM speakers?? Don’t know if it can be overcome to suit my ears.

 

I would agree your money would be better spent on a basic source unit. I’m an avid maestro fan, $250 is what it cost me to fully integrate my pioneer.

 

it was a bear fitting 8 different power/ground runs without cutting any trim.

again nothing much to show just hours of sweat, hopefully cool pictures to come soon.

 

Another teaser, back door area of the frame. Keep in mind everything fits perfectly under the trim and between all guides, only modification was to the ducting (yes, I capped the duct for the passenger side to run 1/0 through it. If someone has done it better, I salute them).



it’s a nightmare when it’s a personal car, it’s never good enough….

 

another teaser, home brew offset stack for the dual mono wiring arrangement.

just got shipping from cali raised led and final bits trickling in. Should have the build phase done by weeks end if everything cooperates.

 

Should be finished in the next 48 hours, will post updates as things get done though the evening

 

The more I follow your thread the more I'm convinced I must go 3-way. Hehe, keep up the great work and keep the pictures coming!

 

it pays dividends, I would encourage you to read into andy wehrmeyer (the engineer behind the Harman curve). Short story is less beaming, more dispersion, less distortion, etc etc.

with processing it’s a no brainer

 

Totally agree... I came across his tech blog on AF's website while researching target curves.

Side note - I remember in another thread you mentioned Steve (Zed Audio). I was digging through my old stuff from the 90s and actually bought this USAcoustic amp from him many moons ago from his old shop:
I'm thinking of toying with it for a temp 3way since my DSP has some extra channels. How's that for a blast from the past.

 

Funny you mention them, I was lurking on one me-self. It’s really hard to find solid amps these days, one look on crutchfield feels like shopping the mid size compact segment on carvana….scrolling a lot of the same nonesense

 

As my build wraps, I wanted to give thanks to a few companies that have helped along the way.

- nick @ stereo integrity, great products and good honest guy

- audiofrog produces amazing products, and Andy the owner is a pioneer who has given so much to the community

- Cali raised led produces amazing products for a reasonable cost, good follow through and on time delivery. The Molle rack looks flawless and is well thought out 10/10

- rago produces an amazing second battery tray, a little tricky but the instructions are clear enough online. Seems to be a family operation, but does good metal work. 10/10

I would encourage everyone to patronize the fab companies listed above especially, it is very fortunate the community has such resources unlike other platforms.

 

so close…

 

why run one battery when you can run two….

 

I will say….

Adding the voltage booster pro made the car run “healthier”….. that extra half volt gave a smoother idle and an inexplicable feel of more stability in the electrical system.

Second batteries don’t hurt either. For reference, I jammed two H7 batteries in place of the recommended 34f, so yes the H6/7 frame batteries fit.

 

Today is finish day.

finishing the rack now… after countless delays.

 

First impressions:

great stage, unfortunately bit of a volume independent floor noise and turn off pop…. Such is the beast I guess.

needs more bass, those mids in the dash definitely have the +6db from reflections Andy talks about. Need to eq but why put in an elite and second battery if I don’t want to break ****.

need someone who can build a false floor long term, if anyone knows the right guy give me a shout.

they say don’t meet your heros, but this one may have been worth all the time and money.

 

you motivated me to go 3way as well (with widebands in the dash). my prelim RTA measurements showed the same 6db boost around 1.2khz. Do you have a big null at 60hz? (I'm hoping moving my box fixes this a bit)

great looking build btw, keep us posted with how your tuning goes.

 

I’ll check on the 60hz, entirely possible based on my ear based RTA.



My biggest disappointment is that the front stage surprising overpowers the sub on some songs, eq will help (as well as 15” numero dos)



it may sound childish, but it’s fun to drop the rear window and have people just kinda look confused, they have no idea what all the wires and knobs do.

 

Night shot

 

checking back in.

1000000% see the dip, and Andy the audiofrog owner talks about this in his literature. You actually eq the rest of the frequencies on that channel flat relative to the dip, it cannot be overcome in an off-axis dash config even with upmixing.

reflections are reflections

as for the 60hz, what’s your config and crossovers?

 

agreed... luckily I had plenty of power on tap to EQ down (@1.2 khz). I still have some work to do but here is the latest:

the mid and tweet summed as expected (24db LR @2500hz)

I have tons of issues at the lower frequencies. My left midbass (green) has a couple nasty dips at 160hz & 190hz even after a ton of EQing. My right midbass (red) is almost where I want it. I need to pull the left door card off to investigate further. A lot of funkiness 600hz+ I need to look into as well, they're crossed over at 450hz. Light blue is both left and right midbass. It's a hot mess.

I played with sub placement and went the wrong way... my dip which was previously at 60 hz went even further left. I tried to overlap XO (sub at 80hz & midbass at 60hz) in hopes to help out with the null but no cigar. There was also a huge bump at 40hz that I needed to tame.

 

Are you worried at all about people breaking the window and snatching an amp? I know you're not in the USA. That would be a big concern here.

 

oh I’m in the USA…..

it’s hard to see in, long term I want a false floor.

plus I live in a state that takes property rights seriously… lead poisoning is the #1 cause of death for thieves where I live.

 

Oh I'm sorry I don't know where I got that from.

I live in a state that will put you in jail for exercising rights and defending yourself............where ever the puke emoji is...

 

man, that made my day.

Anymore you can’t escape it. I want to move to Montana.

 

Looking at changing things up finally. I have an extensive collection because I’m always chasing the next best thing. Also, looking to shrink my equipment footprint for a more stealth look and feel.

gathering up parts, going back to the twin 300/4 and hd 1200/1 from JL, stereo integrity woofers in place of the audiofrog gs690 woofers, and taking out the gb10 speakers and pods in lieu of stereo integrity tweeters off axis in the a pillars.

changing to an sql12 subwoofer in a passive radiator box.

the audiofrog gs690 woofers with taco tunes brackets as well as the gb10 tweeters with valicar pods and add on swivel joints will be for sale in the other sub-forum.

will keep the thread juicy with updates

 

It looks like you have dual batteries. I'm about to start my audio install and have been wondering what connector I would use to hook up the amps cable to my battery. The positive terminal has that weird dual fuse affair and I don't know how to hook mine up without going to dual batteries which I don't want to do right now.

Any suggestions/insight would sure be appreciated.

 

https://www.amazon.com/T-Spec-Batte...=&hvlocphy=1024734&hvtargid=pla-1066828310301



this battery terminal leaves provision to bolt posts to the block, I kept the factory terminal clamp intact for various reasons I will share if you care to know.


Hope this helps.