2022 Frame Replacement - What is this Noise? Update - Noise Found

Yeah, the frame itself was about $13k, about $11k for labor, the steering rack, UCA/LCA etc made up the difference. All done at Toyota dealers (frame in Irvine, CA, the rest in Durango, CO - long story). Luckily, these cars are actually not that involved for a frame swap all things considered. Remove driveline, remove six bolts, lift body off frame, roll new frame under, re-install suspension/driveline. Thankfully no rattles, there is just this "clunk" and while it obviously is a result of the work, it is likely something simple.

Amazingly there was not an ounce of body damage, which is where things get even more expensive.

 

Excellent advice !

 

Driveline includes pulling the engine, trans and reinstalling it. Lots of bolts holding heavy things. I would imagine airconditiining has to come apart and be recharged as well

It’s kind of amazing how expensive repairs are on these things. I dont know if it’s that all cars are this expensive to repair, or just frame on body vehicles because they are more “repairable” or if it’s because a 4runner hold value so well that insurance companies dont total them.

To be fair, I know in some places people buy “totaled” toyota trucks for a pretty penny because they are still usable as off-rod rigs or as farm utility vehicles.

 

Sweet baby Jesus guys I just realized I have pictures and you all would be happiest (read "holy S&*$ look at that dude's car) to see them! Here's some pics from about a month ago, and the one in the driveway is about two weeks ago

 

Very interesting photos, thanks for sharing. Your story illustrates the advantage of a body on frame. Had it been a unibody, it probably would have been deemed totaled.

 

I feel bad for you bud wow, personally I could not keep that vehicle but the trade in on has to be shot also I would guess when a new frame shows up on the carfax.

 

I might have missed it, but why isn't the mechanic who performed the repairs diagnosing this noise?

 

He is, same mechanic. It's a dealer though, and they're not getting paid to keep trying to find the noise, so it's a bit of a struggle even though they are great.

 

I'm going to take that the nice way, talk about kicking a guy when he's down Yes, I've struggled with the fact I now own a brand new car on its second frame, that there is a blemish (just says "damage reported" and that is it) on the Carfax, that its value is impacted etc etc. I'm the most anal retentive OCD car owner out there, so it took alot for me to be okay with it. Now I look at it as a car I can actually keep for a long time (very little point in selling it) and use it for what I bought it for. Luckily I have other cars that I can continue to baby, keep miles off of, admire their perfect Carfax etc...

 

I once experienced that - check the following:

1. Tie rods and steering arm. I don't know the technical term but it's the tapered end that connects tie rods to spindles. Make sure it's properly tightened. The castle nut is on top with a carter pin.
2. Wheel hubs (there's 4 bolts on each side and you can't get things in there easily, so you'll need a ratchet wrench or a stubby socket.
3. Brake caliper bolts (2 on each rotor, 17 or 19mm).
4. Lower ball joint. There's 3 bolts there, the middle which is the lower ball joint, and the 2 that hold the LCA to the spindle.

Sure - check all other things too, but I've personally seen a loose tie rod make that clunk, and that was a hell of a clunk on the video.

 

I feel ya! It’s a matter of perspective. It’s not on it’s second frame, it’s only had it’s frame replaced once . Not a big deal lol.

Also, regarding resale…remember people buy BMWs, Benzes and Audis. Your resale value has probably gone down as much as theirs do a minute after driving it off the lot. And you’ve used yours to do cool shit off road

I have a family member that rolled a 2004 Tacoma. He sold it as is for 5000 bucks.

 

In all sincerity please take the nice way, sorry if came across wrong that the problem with type written messages I guess. Trust me I am a guy who bought a new Accord and then had the engine replaced at 37k miles, so I had a similar issue not as drastic but similar. The 5th cylinder just blew up for whatever reason and the my initially called it piston slap. It sounded like a Dodge 2500 diesel and was not right and smoked like hell. The only proper fix was a new engine which kudos they replaced without much issue.

So I had that on my record on a very new car at the time like you. So I get that pain. I am like you though holding onto it for a very long time.

So please do not misunderstood, I meant it in best possible way bud.

 

All good, I know you did. Bummer about the Accord, such good cars, but LOL about the Dodge 2500 comment Happy Friday !

 

Update: It was the lower control arm bolts, just a little loose. Nice to finally have it up and running as it was....only took 5 1/2 months

 

Outstanding!! Glad that is resolved.

 

I am glad this issue is resolved and the OP can move on to enjoying his 4Runner

 

Very good to know, thanks for the update, and glad you are happy. One question - by 'lower control arm bolts' do you mean those that attach it to the steering knuckle or the cam bolts at the frame?

 

It was the cam bolts at the frame, forgot to clarify that

 

So somewhere in the vehicle reassembly, a tech had a 30 second dropout. Too bad you had to deal with this. It's surprising your 4R wasn't all over the road...

All's well that ends well?

 

The dealer had tightened them twice already, according to them. It was possibly just a matter of the suspension (it is lifted etc...) settling after re-install, but who knows. Just glad it is all done, finally.

 

Glad you got this resolved. You’ve been down a long road and deserve a break.