Cheap 4runner mods, emphasis on cheap

Engine bay lighting - my truck is a 4th Gen but this can be done on any vehicle.

I installed switched engine bay lighting on my ’07 Sport a few months ago and finally got a chance to finish the write-up. Thanks to everyone who has posted on how to do this; I've tried to find the exact thread that gave me the idea and guidance and my best guess for credit is ElectroBoy, who has a nice .

Here’s how I did it; as with everything, YMMV.

Materials:

$15 GreceYou Under Hood LED Light Kit, Waterproof 12V Car LED Lights Bars Car Hood Work Inspection Lights Underhood Work Light Kit with Automatic On/Off -Universal Fits Any Vehicle

LED strip (Amazon)

$10 DaierTek 12V Waterproof Round Rocker Switch Blue LED Lighted [UL Listed] ON Off 3 Pin 12 Volt 20A Weatherproof Illuminated Toggle for Marine Car RV Truck -5Pack

Switch (Amazon) (Amazon's pic shows 5 switches but you can order just one.) Electrical wire (~16 gauge)
Ring connector
Your choice of splice connector
Wire stripper
3/4“ keyhole bit



I didn’t want the LED strip to turn on automatically so I added a rocker switch. Mounting it here on the radiator shroud looked like the most convenient place.



Use a small, regular bit to drill a pilot hole then go to the ¾” keyhole bit to make the opening. Smooth the edges with sandpaper or a file, something I hadn’t done yet when I took the pic.



The installed switch looks clean.



Here's where to place the strip. Wipe the metal down first with alcohol on a rag to help ensure the best adhesion.



Run the wires through the wrap then route the wrap under the hood pad. I brought it out at the driver's side rear corner and used a zip tie to secure it there, then tucked and/or zip tied it along the inside top of the fender up to where the wires connect to the switch, battery, and ground.



The switch prongs, from left to right in this pic, are:
1. Left, dark colored: ground
2. Middle: Battery (constant 12V power)
3. Right: Red wire from the LED strip



It's been a minute so forgive me if this is off, but a black wire and a red wire come off the LED strip and - IIRC - this is how everything connects using the prong numbers listed above. Figuring it out is easy enough if this isn't exact:
1. Run a ground wire off the dark-colored switch prong, splice the black one from the LED strip to it, and connect it with the ring connector to the ground bolt as shown below.

2. Constant 12V goes to the battery; in my case, a Blue Sea Systems fuse box.

3. Connect the red wire from the LED strip to this prong.




Done. This mod is way up there in usefulness and bang for the buck.

 

Cost: less than $10. May actually save you money by avoiding 4th Gen frame rust.

Extended the A/C drain line today. Don't know what Toyota was thinking to have the port drip right onto the frame in a vehicle notorious for rotting right out from under their owners.

Before


Gear (+ a couple of zip ties)


After - from above


From below

 

In 2021 I replaced the LED headlights in my '07 Sport with Boslla Bullet B4s, which can uniquely change from white (normal driving) to yellow/white (rain/fog) to pure yellow (fog). You change the color by turning your headlights off and back on within 5 seconds. From normal, it goes to yellow/white, yellow, then flashing yellow as kind of a super-hazard flasher. The only thing some may dislike is going say from yellow/white back to white involves turning the lights on and off three times.

Easy installation and they work as advertised. Cost is ~$112, so a little over the $100 guideline here, but hey, they're worth the extra $12.

I was backed into my garage and the slope of the driveway turned out to be a good test surface.

White (normal driving) - I wanted these to be as bright as my last ones and they are.



Yellow/White (Rain/snow)



Yellow (Fog) - Just realized I had my yellow LED fogs on for this pic also. The Bosllas are lighting the area above the nearest driveway seam.



I've used them in rain/snow/fog and they're effective, especially the yellow in heavy fog.

 

Here are 9 easy steps to lighting your 4th Gen door switches...

We all know our friends at Toyota "missed an opportunity" by not lighting the window and lock controls in the door panels. This mod is pretty easy and really makes a difference in the dark, be it nighttime, parking deck, tunnels, etc. As with all write-ups, this is for info only and you are responsible for safely accomplishing any work on your vehicle.

You will need the following for each door you wish to light:
- An LED bulb designed for a 12V system - I used this orange one from Radio Shack to match the OEM dash illumination.
- Drill & appropriately sized bit (9/32 for the Radio Shack LED linked above)
- Quick disconnects (technically not required but a must for facilitating future door panel removal). As seen in the pics, I used a different type but if doing it over, I would use

$7 MUYI 5 Kits 2 Pin Connector 18AWG Waterproof Wire Connector 1.0mm² Quick Disconnect Wire Connectors 1.5mm Series Automotive Waterproof Electrical Connectors Wire Quick Connectors

these as they’re less expensive and more similar to the OEM plugs.
- Method to tap power (I used a

Scotchlok

red Scotchlok, the kind that folds over the wire and forms a female connection to plug into.)
- Method to ground the black wire (I crimped a ring onto it but whatever works)

Steps:
1. (Thanks, [MENTION=51965]SamNavy[/MENTION])

2. Drill an appropriately sized hole. This is obviously after the mod was done but shows where the mounting hole goes.



3. (Optional) Test the LED to be sure it works. If it doesn't, you'll be glad you discovered it now. (A quick & simple test is to touch the red and black wires to the + & - terminals of a 9V battery. It won't light all the way but you'll know it works.)

4. Install & secure the LED. This is probably the toughest part of the job b/c of the tight quarters. The Radio Shack bulbs have a threaded base and a nut, but it’s really hard to turn the nut to get it tightened down. It’s been a while so I can’t recall whether I gave up and just glued it in, but in any case, it doesn’t have to look perfect since no one will see it. As long as the LED is secure, you’re good.

5. Splice in one half of the quick disconnect to the wires from the LED bulb, red to red and black to black. I soldered the connections and used heat-shrink tubing over each one.

6. Tap the power.

a) Crimp a male blade-type connector onto the red wire from the other half of the quick disconnect.

b) Verify ignition is off. (You may also wish to disconnect your battery, though I didn't.) For the driver's side door, the correct wire is in the large bundle that goes to the door controls. It's the black one 4th from the left on the top row in this pic. Trace it carefully back from the plug b/c there's more than one black one IIRC. The one you want is a little thicker.



Be sure to use the black one since it has switched power. This means the LED will be on whenever the ignition is turned on, but it’s not bright enough to be seen during the day and will do no harm being on. (Do not use the red wire next to the black one; it has constant power so it will likely drain your battery.)

Attach the Scotchlok to the black wire as shown here then plug the male connector in. You may have to cut away part of the insulation on the male connector.



7. Crimp a ring onto the ground wire of the quick disconnect and attach to a known ground. I used this 10mm bolt next to the plastic-covered hole. YMMV, but this bolt was very tough to get started on my truck. A breaker bar may be useful.



8. Connect the two halves of the quick disconnect plug, turn on the ignition, and verify the LED lights up.

9. Reassemble the door and enjoy the knowledge that you will never again have to fumble in the dark for those window and lock buttons.



(This is more yellowish than it really looks, and brighter too, but you get the idea.)

To find the right power wire in other doors, use a circuit tester like .

1. Unplug the wire bundle to the door controls.
2. Attach the tester's black wire to a ground (metal body or chassis bolts are usually good).
3. With the ignition off, touch the tester's metal tip to the metal contacts in the face of the plug. If there's a red wire, try it first. When the bulb in the tester lights, you've found a constant power wire (and know the tester is working). You can eliminate this wire from consideration (unless you want constant power for whatever reason, in that case you're done).
4. Repeat step 3 with the ignition on, ignoring any constant power sources. When the tester lights, you have found a switched power source. That's the one you want for this mod.

That's it. Feel free to ask any questions or make suggestions to improve the process based on your own experience.

 

Does the 2024 TRD Off Road have the window and switches light up? It is a Canadian version as we don’t have a Premium edition as such it comes complete as one.

 

A kind suggestion - you’re more likely to get a response in the 5th Gen section. Most who will see it here don’t own anything past an ‘09 4Runner.

 

Hey friend! Can confirm that there are lights under the switches for the windows, dim blue, if that’s what you are reffering to

 

Added the Ejector Seat option.

 

I've been looking at these Yota Xpedition black out kits for a while, looks better quality than the ones on Amazon, but a full set would still cost $200+. I found they are currently doing 15% off until Nov 4, does anyone know if this is the biggest discount they'll give or I should wait till Black Friday?

 

Just boosting the OCD tray. Very nice to add, and very cheap. Was the first thing my wife noticed was "missing" when we traded her Tacoma (which had one) for her Runner.
Worth noting that it does have a "front" when installing, but easy to determine when you actually have it in hand.

 

Would a long, narrow shackle on the lock also work? No welding required, and it would still make it very hard to change gears.

 

Added additional switches in the small cubby;
Rocker switch panel - $8.99 for a pack of 4. Modified to fit and glued in place.
Momentary rocker switch - $8.99
Solar rocker switch - $16.99
Total for project - $34.97, all from Amazon.

 

Puddle Lights. Currently $19.99 on Amazon. Easy direct fit install
(Took about 5-10 minutes). I get it….its a little bit 4R nerdy…but it brings me joy every time I open the door on my 4R.

 

Notwithstanding the cost of a welder and shielding gas, I reinforced my factory rusted exhaust flanges with small perpendicular strips of .125" steel and then filed the mating surfaces flat. The flanges are now extremely rigid and don't leak using the O.E.-style ring gaskets.

 

Not the blue blood of roof racks but it has really positive reviews and you can’t beat this price. It’s good through 4/14.

 

A corded reciprocating saw is easily under 100 bucks.
After you have that I highly recommend slicing off the exhaust pipe, on an angle, where it comes down after the axel.
Huge decrease in exhaust smell through rear window, one of my fav cheap mods.