OEM LED headlights conversion adapters for 14-20 halogen 4Runners!

I didn’t see where you spelled out your 6V source. That’s a key part of the challenge. The 9005 doesn’t care about polarity though so you could get creative on that aspect.
Passenger side gets fused 12V DRL signal. Driver gets a wire initially from passenger 9005 ground pole.
Also remember you have 3 modes. DRL off, DRL on, high beams on. Represented by 0V on passenger 9005, 12v on passenger 9005 and 12v on either side shutter wire. Presumably corresponding to 0, 6 and 12v per ideal design.

 

Aren’t the 9005s right now receiving 0V (off) or 6V (on DRL)? So the goal would be to make them have 12V when the shutter wire activates? The 9005 is wired in series with common grounds, no?

 

9005 wiring on 2022+ is passenger 12v on one side, other side to driver side, driver other side to ground. No 6v source exists other than running two bulbs in series. I'm not sure what you mean by "common grounds" as there is only one OEM ground in this circuit.
Switching two bulbs between series wiring and parallel wiring with two relays seems likely to short. With a SPDT relay, maybe it's doable but it still doesn't make me feel all that good. It is possible to convert both to 12V though and PWM or resistive-load the grounds for DRL use somehow as that has no chance of shorting. But the possibility of sending 12V DRL directly to ground if switching isn't instantaneous makes me think this is not really worth playing around with.

 

… Hold my beer!

Common ground meaning the 6V is measured against the same ground as the 12V. It can get weird if they use transformers, but this sounds straight forward. So the 12V is on the passengers side? And the ground to chassis is on the drivers? No PMW, just old school simple wiring. That’s good. So switch ground on the passengers side and positive on the drivers. That even eliminates needing to run a 12V+ to the passengers side. Is there a convenient chassis ground on the passengers?

 

Not sure how much I can contribute at this point, it'll take me a while to parse through this

 

Yes: https://fbchs.square.site/product/4...-harness/40?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=true

So, you're thinking two relays, one for driver, one for passenger? Passenger is going to switch the "ground" leg of 9005 between chassis ground and output to driver side positive pole. Driver side is going to switch the "power" leg of 9005 between +12v (need clean fused source since drl is off when high beams are on) or output from passenger ground leg. Each is then protected "through the bulb" from shorting power to ground, and whichever switches first only matters for a short interval of potentially sending 12v before 6v or vice versa? I think I see it now. Not sure if it can be done with just one relay, as my thinking here is 2. Use 87a and 87 as inputs, 30 as output. coil off shutter and low beam ground. So 87 would be the fused clean 12v input, 87a the other wire for series. Oh, but I think you need a 3rd relay to switch power for passenger side from DRL 12v (only on w drl) or fused 12v constant (only on with shutter). so 3 relays?

 

To me, at 3 relays it's just too much complexity to justify the quad high beam option. Though fully PnP I'd imagine some might bite, especially if it can all be done on the passenger side which I think is possible since driver is just fed from passenger ground output and the other side is chassis ground. Just a bit of an ugly hydra, even with a GEP, very Johnny-esque, you can use all your colors...

 

I do like colors…
I didn’t think of the DRL being off when the high beam is off. That does complicate it….

You’re probably right, at a certain level of complexity it probably isn’t worth it.

 

Wait, might still be possible with 2 harnesses…. I need to draw it up.

 

I see it possible with 3 relays. We can chat offline. If you get to a solution with just 2 that might be viable. 3 seems kinda loco but maybe some would be willing. It’s fun to bs about.

 

Like @mynameistory said, I gotta right all this down on manila graph paper…
I was a lil confused when I saw people just replacing original headlights with oem led by depinning n possibly switching orientation of +/- wires
Think I grasp the concept that these harnesses allowed for the full potential of newer oem led lights

Food for thought…what if I had replaced fogs with after market on their own new switch/circuit
N had the oem fog just dormant right now
Could the oem fog switch trigger some part of this conundrum? Maybe activate the quad high beam?(their harnesses goto nothing as of now)

sorry for the interruption

let the actual intelligence continue…

 

ECU kills fog when high beams are on. So fog switch would be useful for non high beam aux lights aka not much. Or together w fog anytime.

 

Big reason I wired my DDs up separately…wanted to use fog anytime w/o buying the BriteBox…didn’t know if there was anyway around the high cancelling them
Figured as much

well I deeply appreciate all the work you guys have done n continue to do
Fingers crossed n still looking for my moms Highlander upgrade options

furking headlights…geeze

 

https://hotshotoffroad.com/products/all-lights-on-16-23-tacoma

@memario1214 any chance of a T4R version?

 

I know this is a long shot, but I just got a 4R where the previous owner installed some truly horrendous LED bulbs in the standard halogen housing. No throw, minimal light. It's pretty terrible. After digging around for more hours than I care to admit, it seems like the most resounding recommendation is to get an OEM LED take-off from a newer fifth generation. I had also believed that the required conversion harnesses might be near impossible to get based on the sticky on the top of this thread. That said, from the last few posts it sounds like @daveeasa and @Puppypunter may still be able to whip up one of these?

So, two questions:
1) Is there any feasible way to talk one of the two of you into helping me out so that I don't send my 4R off the side of a canyon due to lack of visibility?
2) It seems like there is a difference between the 3 light LED on the TRD pros (high/low/turns) and the 1 LED (just lows) wiring/housing. Is one of these preferable/easier to create a harness for? The single LED seems like it would be easier to do, but potentially harder to find as a takeoff item (at least in good condition)?

Thank you so much!

 

I’ll dm you

 

Feel like I found a great deal on eBay with the matching PN#s for the bi-led
(Would love to confirm with anyone willing)

Now these harnesses are the missing piece

If @Puppypunter takes on this challenge please add my name to the pot

 

I’ll send you a message.