My 2022 T4R

This would be a very good lesson/experience for our 5th Gen 4Runner Members to be benefit/learn when dealing with the issue. In fact, DD 9005 HP48 LED Light would only have 1-way to insert into the Socket, No other way around as showed in the Pictures & thus, how would it be Polaritized? Would you help?

 

Check the pink wire on the original connector on your 4runner. Is it on the left or right? Pink is the positive wire of your 4runner. You are actually tapping to it and extending it to the other side.

 

All hallogen bulbs and some LEDs are polarity sensitive. Meaning, you have to connect the + to the + and - to the -. Now, there are some LEDs that would light up no matter how you connect them. I’m not talking about the connector if it only goes one way.

 

So, would you still suggest that I have to swap the Soldering Cables from Green (Original) to Pink to connect to Black/Red Wires & Green to the Ground? If so, I will try to see if it is working or not. Again, from Previous Connection, only Passenger's Side LED would lightup & Driver's Side will not! Thank you again Bro & will try!

 

You should be good. Just check your ground and make sure everything is plugged in snugly.

 

Hi emacTR4! I had tried again this morning even swapping Cables as you had suggested (Pink on Connector to Black/Red & Green to Black for Ground) but still does not lightup on both sides (very strange). I had also the continuity vs Ground as they are good. Again, Passenger's Side will lightup as initial connection except Drive's Side. Do you think that issue from Bulbs & Ground? I am sure that No Short Circuit when connecting Wires & Bulbs. Any other advices & thanks

 

Does your DRL work without the harness? Are they switched on? Do you turn on the vehicle before looking if they are on or not? Parking brake disengaged? If yes to all of these, I don’t know what is the problem. Sorry it didn’t worked for you.

 

Hi emacTR4! Original Halogen Bulbs for DLR are both working prior to upgrade LED DLRs (turn the Stalk to Auto). One thing for sure as I had read Manual vs watching Youtube as such if Parking Brake is engaged (for some Brands/Models but thinking that it will apply to 2021+ 4Runner Models), then DLRs will not light up. In fact, I made connections to New LEDs when Parking Brake is ON & I will try again tomorrow morning with the 1st Harness Cable which I had made (Green to Black/Red Wires & Pink to Black for Grounding on Blue Connector) as it is kinda HOT/HEAT in TX now! However, just still wondering why only Passenger's Side has lighted up initially after making connection (Parking Brake was engaged). Thank you again & I will keep you update tomorrow either it is working or not! Have a great weekend. BR, Kent

 

Hi emacTR4! How are you? this morning, I had tried again with some different connections but still unsuccessful

1. Turn ON OEM Halogen Bulbs DRL Lights with Parking Brake Disengaged ==> Working

2. Used 1st Built Harness (Green on Blue Connector connected to Black/Red Wires & Pink connected to Black for Ground). Then, I had grounded the Black Wire to the same Location as yours on 1st page. Checked for Continuity & they are all Good ==> LED DRL Lights on Both Sides would not light up (Parking Brake Disengaged)

3. Built 2nd Harness (Pink on Blue Connector connected to Black/Red Wires & Green connected to Black for Ground). Mounted Ground Cable on the same Location as #2 above ==> LED DRL Lights on Both Sides would not light up (Parking Brake Disengaged)

I am checking the OEM Connectors & saw that Pink Cables (12V on both Passenger/Drive Sides) were on the Right of Connector (looking out from Engine Bay). This Circuit is exactly connected in Series as your Original Diagram

According to Harness Connections as if Pink is Positive & Green is Negative on OEM Connector, then

1. When splicing Pink Wire from (iJDMTOY OEM 9005 HB3 H10 9145) to Black+ Red Wires from (iJDMTOY 9005 HB3 9145 H10 9006 HB4)
2. On OEM Connector, Pink (Positive) will be connected to either Black or Red Pin from (iJDMTOY 9005 HB3 9145 H10 9006 HB4)
3. Remaining Green Wire (Neg) on OEM Connector will be connected to either Black or Red Pin on (iJDMTOY 9005 HB3 9145 H10 9006 HB4)

Should it become a Shorted Circuit since both Pink & Green Wires from OEM Connector connected to Black+ Red Wires (since spliced together) from (iJDMTOY 9005 HB3 9145 H10 9006 HB4) as showed on Attached Picture (Sorry that if I had misunderstood)

Finally, Is your OEM Connector with Pink (Postive) on the Right as well or different? thinking that Toyota would have the Same Circuit Connections for DRL Lights on All 4runner Models as No Need to have different Circuit especially for 4Runner Limited

Seemed like most of Members were successfully built the Harness & were able to have Upgraded DD 9005/HP48 for DRL Lights, except with Few Members had issues with Grounding but finally be able to make it worked

Don't know if any Member with 2022 Limited has successfully with this Harness Mod

Sorry for this long message as I just wanted to share an update with you

Have a great weekend

 

If the harness doesn’t work, its probably the Limited trim headlights are not LED. Try using the LED bulbs without the harness. If they light up, that means they are already getting 12v. Not series.

 

Hi emacT4R! How are you? I finally figured out what was wrong when making Harness & successfully had both DRL Lights worked on 22 Limited.

I had purchased a WRONG HARNESS & it is important to purchase the Right Harness when making this Mod (see attached Pictures)

1. Correct Harness: iJDMTOY 9005 HB3 9145 H10 9006 HB4 Extension Wiring Harness Sockets Wires Compatible with High/Low Beam or Fog Lights Use (as showed in Products Discussed below)

2. Purchased Wrong Harness: TOMALL H11 to 9005 9006 Retrofit Wiring Harness for Light Blub Connector Socket Adapter 12cm(5inch) ==> DO NOT BUY THIS ONE (see attached Pictures for comparison)

This is the way that I had tried to find out which Wire on Passenger's Side is Positive & which one is Negative (Original Series Circuit on both Passenger/Drive Sides) after failing to make Harness for DRL Lights

1. Using Multi-meter to measure DC Voltage from Green Wire (Passenger's Side) to White/Black Wire (Driver's Side), it measured 13.5V when Engine is RUNNING & by removing 2 Halogen Bulbs out of the Sockets

2. Measured Continuity on Pink Wires on both Sides as they are connected & Good

3. On DD 9005 HP48, I had learned that Positive Pin is at 9005 Logo & Negative Pin is at HB3 Log (looking from the Back where Logos are printed)

Then, I had rebuilt the Harness again & finally both DRL Lights are turning ON,

Once again, Thank you again for your time & helps

Best Wishes to you & all T4R Members

BR,

Kent

 

Great! I’m glad you got it sorted out.

 

Got mine switched over today. Thanks for the instructions!

 

Hey EmacTR4, I recently got a 4Runner TRD PRO and I’ve realized after a few weeks of owning my DRL is separate from the high and low beam. I’ve came across your post about the mod for the DRL plug which I thinks you’re an absolute genius for this. My question is what happens if I didn’t do this harness and bought the diode dynamic bulb and plugged it in? Would it be too much voltage going through to the point it’ll burn out or cause a shortage etc? Thanks!

 

Won’t light at all. Operating voltage on the bulbs is 9-16V. DRLs are wired in series so that makes them 6-7V

 

What was it about the connector that you didnt like prompting you to order the blue ones?

 

Hi All - wanting to do this mod. Anyone have an extra harness they want to sell?

Thanks and Merry Christmas!

 

I made 2 versions of this and both blew the 10 DRL fuse. Tried with LEDs and with 9005 Silverstars. Did you increase the size of the DRL fuse?

 

Also made this one that blew fuse

 

This one is the correct looking one. Which side did you put the harness on? Driver or passenger? You should not need to increase fuse size if done correctly. In fact, if could be dangerous to increase fuse size because that would leave the wire to fail first

 

Passenger Side.

Maybe the '24s are different?

 

I made some wiring diagrams from a previously uploaded diagram (thanks to who ever did, I can't remember where I found it).
These are based on my 2024 ORP , these may help some visualize how it's done.

 

So why did this blow my 10A DRL fuse?


?

 

Following up... anyone have an extra harness they want to sell? IF so, gladly take it off your hands.

Thanks in advance!

 

The 2024s must be different, the harness shown causes the DRL 10A fuse to blow. Be sure to have some handy if you try this fuse.

I have 2024 TRD ORP.

Made it 2 ways. Let me know if anyone spots a problem.

PIC 1


Pic 2

 

@ AE1M - I think the "fix" for the different model years ARE different. I came across a pre-built kit from VLEDS. A bit pricey, but they have two different versions based on model years, so something must have changed that they are producing 2 different kits. I have a 2024 as well.

2014-2021 - https://www.vleds.com/5g-4runner-9005-pwm-daytime-running-light.html
2021-2024 - https://www.vleds.com/5g-4runner-9005-daytime-running-light-series.html

PS - Yesterday, I tried the Alla Lighting fog light solution that someone posted earlier on in this thread. I did not work for my 2024 limited. (1 light worked fine with no flicker, but then when I changed out the 2nd DRL light to LED, no light was being thrown out of either lens).

 

I do not believe the product quoted for 2021-2024 is correct or will work based on reading the directions. There is no "high beam" light to remove, it's a combo hi/low in my '24.

 

Ooooh! Good catch. The video on their site for the 21-24 is correct, but the instructions are not. I just made a quick call and they said its an error and will be updating the site. The pictures are correct though. I got antsy so went ahead and ordered a set. I can update once installed.