What brand of grease you using

Some does come out at the swiper seal, if the grease gets up that high, as the suspension and slip yoke move. I think the trick is to make sure it’s not so full, that on a hard/deep suspension hit, it blows the pressed cap off the end of the shaft due to hydro lock.

So yeah, I agree, you have to be careful once you know it’s full inside there. Now that mine is “full” I’m keeping an eye out for evidence of grease around the swiper seal area. I’ll plan to only add a few pumps if it looks dry, and skip it if there is still a little grease around that area.

 

The manual specs lithium for the spiders, and as an option for the slip yoke. But, based on the replies here, most people are just using whatever.

 

Ha! I pulled one off the shelf at the store but then put it back when I saw the price. Maybe I should go back and get it, although there’s something to be said for doing it the hard way first (within reason) - just so you can appreciate why the easy way is better.

 

Thixogrease.

 

On the JBA control arms we use a synthetic silcone based grease from Mobil (XHP 222 special) as reccomended by JBA. For the drive shafts a Lucas lithium base. Years ago I used a 'grease' on poly control arm bushings, although it took some time, eventually they started to squeak. Once they start squeaking it's a uphill battle to get them to stop. FWIW.

 

What's the best tool to unscrew the zerk? I'm thinking a small adjustable wrench, but there's little room to maneuver, so it seems like there would be a special-purpose wrench.

I've read elsewhere that dropping any of the skids wasn't necessary, but when I got underneath and looked, it sure seemed like this one is likely to be problematic, especially if the shaft is rotated to an unlucky position.

 

Any recommendations for a silicon paste for sunroof?
I have the spray kind but would prefer a more thicker consistency to put on the sunroof rubber beading.

 

6 or 7 mm socket for the zerk, on a small extension.
The plate is just a single bolt, I think it’s there to protect exhaust pipe from grease splash.

 

Responding to Lc200...

I have used this on numerous seals, It is really thick, So a little bit goes a long way.

 

No special tool needed. A regular wrench will suffice… I believe it was a 6mm, or 7mm, or maybe 8mm lol. It’s tiny, so be careful to not over torque. Gutentight, the standard for German metrology. No more.

Also, the front shaft rotates in 2wd, so you can move the zerk to whatever position is best.

 

Thanks, I'm glad I have what I need. I used 4L to get up the ramps, so I'll back down and try again in 2H if I can't get at the zerk.

 

I would try putting it in N and disengaging 4wd, Should work on the dial operate TC, I would guess. I only mention it since I hate trying to get my 4runner up on the ramps in 2wd…they always get pushed.

 

Why use ramps in the first place?

I've never needed ramps to grease the zerks.

 

I also changed the oil, and stopped to paint the trail rash on the skids while I had them off, as well as refreshing the woolwax on the jack points from rotating the tires.

 

Are you guys using a heavier duty ramp for 4r? I have rhino ramps for car but not sure I trust the weight of truck. Luckily I don't need them so far since plenty of room to crawl under truck. The predator steps were my biggest pain until removed and replaced with sliders.

Didn't know the sliders would make it easier for me to slide under truck.

 

I use Rhino ramps. They're rock solid. I'll also replace my Predator steps with sliders before long.

Adding: my warning label says 3000 pounds each, 6000 pounds for a pair, or 12,000 pounds for four. Thus more than twice what's needed in any application for the 4R.

 

Lucas Red 'N' Tacky for the spider joints, Mobilgrease XHP 322 Mine for the slip yokes.

 

FWIW, my zerks are 7 mm.

 

I also use this

 

This is what we used. It is most sticky, tacky grease I have used. I don't think it's possible to wash it out. Hard to push in hand pump gun. I don't want where you get.

 

Remind me not to have lunch with you!!

 

The red one

 

Got a 2024 and still has zerks. 6 total between prop and drive shafts

 

Those that mention Lucas Red-n-Tacky - are you using that on both the universal joints and the drive shaft?

I need to do this...

 

I use a German brand call Veinner-Schlider for all my lubrication needs...

 

Lucas Red n' tacky

 

Same here. I bought a mini grease gun and a 3 pack of cartridges which included a red n tacky.

 

I have this loaded in the grease gun for the trailer, and other misc steering components. Turns out it meets the specs, so I use it.

 

I use Lucas Red n Tacky on everything. It works fine and I flush it through regularly enough it never dries up or really pushes the limits of the grease. Any quality grease that meets specs should be fine as long as you keep up with maintenance intervals so grease is always clean.