6" Lifted Toyota 4Runner TRD Off-Road Light Issues

100% if it’s at the dealer might as well.

 

The only issue is that the cross member is still down low. So I personally don't see the point in doing bracket lifts unless you got some massive tires to get that cross member up higher.

I'd just get under there and anything being stretched try and relieve some of the strain if possible. Just because it doesn't look broken from the outside doesn't mean the wire inside is fine.

 

Oh yea just make sure the headlights are aimed lower to compensate for the lift and you'll be A-OK - a lot of instructions out there and you'll just need a #2 philips to do it. (my rough-and-dirty estimate way is to keep the cutoff below the rear window of most sedans on the road when I'm behind them at a stoplight.) Don't wanna blind folks!

 

yes if your rock crawling. But I already knew that wasn’t gonna be an option anymore after lifting.

 

agreed

 

But you did say youre offroading it.

 

Yeah that honestly will be rectified after the tires are added. Just waiting to upgrade the ones I have on there are about 3 months old.

eventually I’ll get extended brake lines. But it’s not really showing a tension there.

 

Possibly when I start planning on articulating again.

 

What is your definition of Off-Roading?

We used to take it rock crawling up in big bear. But my off roading it’s HOV trails where it’s likely more dips that rocks, and we are not planing on pitching the truck sideways and hooping it doesn’t flip.

 

You can probably get some $$ for those tires once you get some 35's on there.

 

this is definitely a test post by AI ..

 

true. Looking on Facebook Market for a swap

 

id like to see more pics of this lift front and rear. I can imagine these wires and brake line being stretched to the max

 

Ever been inside the wheel well? You have a flexible rubber line from the frame to the spindle. Normally in most suspensin lift kits you will get a bracket that moves the mounting point of that rubber line slightly and then you have more than enough wiggle room to move the wheel hub lower with the lift. This is quite common, there are very few lift kits that require new brake lines these days.
The same goes with the rear, you have a flex line that will likely allow for 4+" without even getting close to getting tight. Probably a short bracket for the rear to move the mount of the rubber line and then you get enough wiggle room for 4-6"

 

I’ve gotten so off camber at a stock ride height on a trail in a section without rocks that I was literally having to hold on to the center console as I began to start turning uphill.

Plenty of ways to get off camber without rock crawling.

 

Be very careful if you take this offroad. I highly doubt these Rough County kits are made for off pavement duty.

 

Yup. A buddy went 6 inch on his 2nd gen Taco for wheeling but the drop bracket limits ground clearance and it actually bent back at one point.

 

let’s hope it’s not the case here. Cause I’d have to find someone to weld the sub frame back in.

 

Yeah they sent brackets to lower the brake lines and the speed sensor line. The kit came with extended knuckles too.

 

yes agreed. I’ve had this truck the same on tip top mountain in big bear.

 

lol

 

Put some 22” wheels on that thing and ship it to Hawaii.

 

Nice!!

 

Yeah 33's aren't gonna do any justice here. 35s or bust.
Shit I mean he already has the viper cut so a quick BMC is all it needs to fit them.

After OP finds the stretched wire/ brake line of course.

 

I think the combination of the 6in lift and the roof top tent might become an issue when you least expect it. Not sure about how you drive, but when I’m off road, sometimes I end up in situations that maybe I wasn’t exactly planning for, including ending up angles that are a bit more than what I bargained for. With the roof top tent, and any cargo inside the vehicle, your center of gravity is going to be extremely high, not to mention the inertia of a heavy roof might end up pulling you over earlier than you expect if the vehicle has any side to side pitching forces.

The current wheels/tires are not just a cosmetic issue. From a stability and usability standpoint, getting some wheel spacers or wheels with a fair bit of poke might actually be advisable to increase stability. Heavier/wider tires will also help with that…. I would plan for this even if you decide to get rid of the RTT. Might as well go as big as possible on the tires at this point.

Big tires should not be that difficult to fit compared to what’s already been done. The frame has already been cut up, so chopping the body mount shouldn’t be an issue. You might not need to hammer any bodywork to clear the front tires because it seems they will not compress as far into the wheel well as it did stock, since the bracket lift seems to reposition the entire suspension range down as a whole, not increase the range. The only issue with large enough tires is that you’ll probably want to regear to save the transmission.

As far as the dash lights, I would check over the abs wiring and anything attached to the new spindles. You never know if the casting is rough and maybe cut or abraded a wire. Also, check to make sure the tone ring for the abs is installed correctly and undamaged. Those new uprights are a variable here, so check that everything fits well onto it. They are probably not as good as OE dimensionally (or with surface finish) which may affect the function of the abs/tone-ring.

 

You need to definitely extended your rear brake lines.

 

Eventually yes but not needed they gave me drop brackets.

 

Anything more than 3.5 is overkill.