Tire Rotation - Easiest Method for DIY?

I do it the same way as Bassguy. Getting an electric impact is a luxury but makes it so much easier, my Dewalt electric even has a "bolt removal" mode that automatically slows down once they start spinning so you don't spin them clear off and send a lug flying. Other benefit of the impact (besides saving your shoulder) is that you don't have to worry about breaking them loose with the tire still on the ground, the impact action will take them off without even spinning the wheel.


When you put the wheels back on, you can use the impact carefully but makes sure to first hand thread on each lug and then as noted just gently spin them snug with the impact. Lower the truck until hte tires just touch (not full weight on them) and use your torque wrench and torque them down in a star pattern.

done.


BTW, since I do this during hte regular 5k service the truck up on jack stands is a great time to change the oil and grease all the zerks.

 

That sounds like someone trying to justify not owning an impact wrench.

 

Valid point. I generally loosen lug nuts with a breaker bar for that reason, then use the impact wrench to take them the rest of the way off.

 

You don’t have spend a small fortune to have some nut busting grunt. I was helping my son change out a steering box on his Dodge 1T and his nearly new 1/2” DeWalt pneumatic impact couldn’t bust loose a super tight pitman arm/steering box nut but as a last ditch effort my +25yr old thrashed 1/2” HF Earthquake wrench had no problem zinging it off, my son(mechanic) was blown away as was myself. The air compressor is the expensive part, but IMO every DIY guy should have one for many reasons.

 

Yeah, I had the same questions when it came to adding extensions, but ultimately it had to be done. Almost works without the extension, minus your hand rubbing against the tire. However, I don’t need the extension with the breaker bar for loosening.

Looking forward to seeing your fancy new black lugs

 

That seems like unnecessary work.

 

An extension, coaxial w/ the socket won't alter your applied torque. But in this and all cases one should try to support the cantilever load this creates. Just lift the head of the torque wrench an equal amount to the down force applied to the handle. This way only torque is applied to the nut, w/o unwanted bending loads.

 

Some of you guys are treating changing/rotating tires like brain surgery. It doesn’t need to be so hard and you don’t need to treat your truck like a delicate flower.

 

Spare to passenger rear

Passenger rear to passenger front

Passenger front to driver rear

Driver rear to driver front

Driver front to spare.

This can be done with a single jack one corner at a time or with all 4 corners in the air. Lift the corner, break everything lose with a bar, zip things off with an electric, put the new wheel on, snug with electric, torque to spec with a torque wrench, drop that corner, move to the next. Not the fastest method, but all 5 tires wear evenly, you get more miles out of the set of 5, and you never end up with a 16 year old spare that doesn't hold air anymore because you thought it was best left fresh.

 

Also, it is good practice to clean rust off of all surfaces which mate w/ the rim to minimize runout.

 

Good point. I started doing that after watching a brake job video where they recommended the same thing.

 

Yep, the rotor to hub interface. It all makes sense. Sometimes the little things can make a difference. Like turning a threaded fastener the opposite direction first to allow it to "drop" into the first thread. This is especially important on self tapping screws in plastic upon reassembly.