Novice- Need Help Wiring

That kit is set up to make what ever it powers turn off and on via that manual switch. It wouldn't turn on when the car starts. So your fangs or grill lights would only turn on manually.

And if you did turn them on then you manually have to turn them off or they will just stay on and drain your battery even when your car is off.

 

Yes. This is exactly what I have done, x3!
For the first one drilled a blank dash switch insert and installed the toggle switch inside. When I added two more 2-light wiring harnesses, I deleted that and wired to OE type dash switches.

 

That's why I like em (I don't have raptor lights tho)
I use em for trails and camping and other after dark stuff

 

Yeah would work great for spot lights and such but doesn't seem ideal for a passive running light like the fangs or grill lights.

 

Yeah not my fog fangs, they come on with IGN

 

@thenewguywiththe24sr5
@Thacrow
Just thinking out loud
Theoretically, could we use the wiring harness kit for its all-in-one convenience and quality (my wiring harnesses are 16awg, 30A rated) but instead of energizing from pos battery terminal; t-tap the positive lead to DRL's for example / or piggyback to fusebox 12v? Then you leave the switch clicked to on but you have the ability to turn off independently.

 

Yeah my b.

You would use an add-a-fuse. And use that as the positive.

Ideally you would then separately fuse each accessory (and you can buy in life fuses to splice in just like the one this kit comes with so would jusylt need 1 more.)

Then leave the switch on unless you want everything off.

Well done dude.

 

Right!?
I'm learnding lol

Wait so my wiring harnesses come with an inline 30A fuse built in to the positive lead near the battery connector. And then on the piggyback fuse holder add a fuse it's protected on the fuse box with a fuse there as well. I need more fuses than that?

 

I'm just saying specifically for OP's use case if he used this kit for both the fangs and the grill lights. Thats two things. You want the. Each on their own fuse so if one fails, then only one fails and you know there's an issue on that side instead of an issue just...somewhere. The add a fuse comes with a fuse so that's a lot of fuses. You don't need three it would just work like that if you used this kit.

Or just do the one fuse on the add a fuse and cut the fuse off the kit. Don't need it.

Whike It comes with a 30a fuse, I would buy a kit with a ton of different fuses and change it to a little over the max draw of everything being powered behind that fuse. For example, I have a 3a fuse on a small accessory on a motorcycle.

 

OP if you want this really simple, go on Amazon and find any switch that has a 5 or 10amp rating. Your lights should be less than this.

Then do the add a fuse to that switch. Boom. You're done. Don't need a relay.

If you don't need the super clean look right now you can get a switch that looks like the switch on your kit that will handle the load no problem without a relay. You only need a relay if a switch can't handle it.

 

Ahh I understand now you're exactly right. Thanks dumbing it down.
Yeah I have 1-light and 2-light harnesses - on the two light circuits they are meant to always be on together.

Another great point by you, cut out the inline fuse, go straight to add-a-fuse (since you already have to strip and crimp your pos wire to the add-a-fuse butt connector)

 

This^

 

That got me thinking what amperage is the cheapo wiring harness I bought recently for rear chase light?:

It's 15A inline fuse and only 18awg (cheaper plastic switch button, and does come with an overkill 40A relay for some reason)
$24 (CAD mind you) at the auto parts store

 

I always just Google "amp wire ga chart". Looks like you can run 10 feet at 15 amps on 18ga. But depends on how many amps the thing is you're powering and the length of the run.

If you google this charts be careful about where the images are coming from. If from audio websites like Crutchfield the chart might be for amp power cables. Try not to use those as new amps run really efficiently and require less amps and thinner cables. So it might be off.

 

I’m trying so hard to understand what is going on, imma stick to the first tutorial

 

Sorry about the hijacking @thenewguywiththe24sr5

 

lol - to the contrary i think you had one of the best ideas on here

Both you and @djwantke have really good points. Why not keep it simple at first? you can decide later if you want to mess with the switchbacks.

You could run the add-a-fuse to a switch like one of these 20a switches (or anything else)
https://www.amazon.com/DaierTek-Rocker-Switch-Household-Appliances/dp/B07S1MV462?crid=22OARUEZIHWBV&keywords=10a+switch&qid=1707546884&sprefix=10a+switch%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY

and then out to both your fangs and grill lights.

Ground those to almost anything that has bare metal

zip tie everything up. zip tie the switch under the dash

you're set.

 

ha…ha..haaaa



My glove box has been out for bout a month
Most days the HVAC is missing
N bout 2 door foot sills, kick plate, left of steering are in the back seat….

like all these mavericks said
You’ll be good…but be cautious