Semi-stripped threads

New 2024 Off Road and somehow got one of the four bolts that holds the skid plate under the oil pan cross threaded. I hope the threads in the hole can be cleaned up with a tap and have ordered replacement bolts. It looks like the bolts were softer than the threads in the hole. It's not something I will ever remove again, and it doesn't need to be very tight, so I am hoping I can just clean up the threads and put in a new bolt and call it done.

I have never done this before, do not have a tap, and don't know which tap I need. Anyone know?

 

So I learned those bolts are tapered and I ended up screwing one of em up. Tried to tap it and that was not successful. Ended up using a rivnut to fix it. Hope that helps.

 

Oh no.

 

Came like this from the dealer, was brand new.

 

Its easy to do if you end up having to use a rivnut. I think the tap is a m10x1.5 its almost like the bolt is an m10x1.0 at the tip and then goes to the 1.5. I said screw it lol

 

That looks exactly like mine. I don't know if it was the factory, or the shop that did the undercoating, or me. I think it was me since it seemed to come out normally. However, my FJ Cruiser used the same bolts on the front skid plate, and in 13+ years I never cross threaded or stripped one.

Loctite and forget it maybe? It has three other bolts.

 

I was thinking of a different bolt....ive got a few of those extra in my magnetic bowl in my garage.

 

I read online that there is some sort of thread repair adhesive where you coat the bolt with a release compound, put goo in the hole, screw in the bolt, let it harden, and then remove and reinstall the bolt.

 

Now I am confused. Is it tapered?

 

I am pretty sure it was the dealer during pre delivery inspection. I dont know if it is possible to cross thread just by unscrewing lol. Of course they would not admit it.

 

If the threads are tapered, then this might be the solution for me. This bolt likely will never come out again. Only reason it was out is because I was shooting 3M cavity wax all inside the frame and cross members.

 

Is the bolt black or silver?

 

Black except where the threads rounded off. Like post #4.

 

Sweet! The one I screwed up is silver. There is hope for you yet!

 

I guess that's the same bolt? There are four holding the front plate that has to be removed for every oil change to get to the filter, four that hold the plate under the oil pan, and two more that hold the inset plate that we remove to get to the oil drain plug. All are the same bolt. I don't see any taper looking at the bolt, but it may not be visible. Why would Toyota taper such a simple, totally non-critical bolt?

 

I mean....its totally possible they look that way to me cause I already damaged them? They are a pain to get back in so im gonna leave em in for now. I dont use those black bolts previously showed.

 

Mine all thread in easily with fingers, just like the same bolts on my 2011 FJ. Not sure what happened to this one but want it fixed somehow. I can ask the shop that did my undercoat. I'm sure they have dealt with stripped bolts. I just can't figure out why Toyota would taper such a simple bolt in such a simple application. I was hoping to just use a tap to straighten the threads and put in a new bolt, which I have on order.

 

Honestly it might be this stupid sh*tty aftermarket skid plate I got that makes it hard. Tried to save a few bucks over buying the TRD one. Sometimes you just get what you pay for.

 

I think you’re fine if you just get a new bolt. These are actually really nice bolts, made specifically to take on and off with the loose washer/shoulder. The taper that you are discussing is to make the bolt easier to start into the hole. They even have the little “drill bit” looking end specifically to chase out a hole that will likely get pretty dirty over the course of its life.

I bet if you threaded another of the good bolts into that hole you’ll find the nut is fine enough to take the torque spec.

That said, if you dont intend to take it off, other people will, and they don’t necessarily respect torque values. That’s a problem for anyone though.

 

Unfortunately, I tried that and ruined another bolt. The threads in the hole are jacked.

 

Black

 

If these threads are tapered, they had to be tapped that way into the hole. Therefore, there must be a way to retap them that way even if I can't do it myself ... ??? No???

 

Oh that stinks. If you cranked the second one all the way down then it might have damaged it more. Personally would try to buy a tap/chaser and try to clean up the welded nut as best you can. Work slowly with those because you can easily make it worse.

 

I think the hole is just a regular nut welded to the inside of the frame. The little taper on the bolt just makes it easier for the bolt to catch the first thread on the nut. You should be able to use a tap to clean up the threads. Unless they really did a number on it and they actually stripped the nut due to over-torquing.

 

One on the welded nuts inside the frame of mine just left the chat never to be seen again. Rivnut for the win.

 

Do you have the skid plate off now? If so, I'd get the correct thread tap and go over all those nuts. The bolts shouldn't strip just by removing them. I think you can fix this with a tap and a new bolt.

On my 2003 Tacoma, an enterprising shop tech used SAE threaded bolts in metric threaded holes with an impact gun to remount my skid plate. I was able to salvage those threaded mounting holes just by using the correct bolts and a bit of patience.

 

M8-1.25 tap. Go slow and use some oil. Most likely will be ok after tapping and using a new bolt. I've had to do this a couple times on my previous various Toyotas.

 

Open the hole up with a 7/16" drill bit and install an M8 rivnut:

$10 30pcs M8 Rivet Nuts Stainless Steel Threaded Insert Nutsert Rivnuts M8-1.25 Threads Nuts

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Threaded-Insert-Nutsert-Rivnuts/dp/B07DK8JM6J/

 

Thanks. I will try option 1 first. If that fails I can try #2.

 

If the nut has been cross threaded you have almost zero chance of getting the tap to be correctly clocked with the existing thread. If this were a solid chunk of metal (e.g. engine block) the appropriate choice would be a Helicoil. Thin plate frame members get a rivnut.