2023 4runner steering wheel shakes between 60&70 replace all 4 tire and it still shakes it has 8000

2023 trd off road 4runner brand new with no miles on it the steering wheel shakes between 60&70 took the factory 17in mud grip off I thought it was the tires they made it shake the new tires i put on a new set of goodyear highway tires on it same size and it still shakes people are Saying, there are a problem with these vehicles doing that

 

Which trim? Could be bad balance or a bad tire but probably needle bearing in drivers side diff. Posts on here having this issue on 22's and 23's. If you're not in a Limited model put the 4WD shifter in 4 high and see if shake goes away or gets better. Smarter guys than me will chime in here.

 

Some folks seem to have a real problem with “wheel shake”. The only consistent answer that seems to work is finding a place that knows how to balance tires accurately, and is willing to take the time to do it right. Road force balancing might be needed.

Along with that, checking for any tires that are out of round.

Regarding the theory of the needle bearing causing wheel shake, I don’t understand how that could translate into the tires shaking. And I’ve never heard anybody actually say putting it in 4wd stabilized the shaking. It would be nice if somebody would post if 4wd sid, in fact, resolve the problem. That would be great news for the folks that have this problem.

 

The way i heard it is the bad needle bearing causes a howl not shaking, and if you put it in 4-H it quits then you know it’s the needle bearing.

 

Second for road force balancing at a shop that understand what they are working with.

 

I have a Jeep that developed a death wobble over 60 mph. I balanced the tires, replaced the steering damper and it still happened. Eventually I figured out it was the main shocks. One of the shocks was shot. I replaced the shocks with quality aftermarket shocks and the problem went away and has never come back. That didn't seem very intuitive but I would check the four shocks just for grins.

 

Before I changed my needle bearing to the ECGS bushing I drove in 4high which kind of stopped the howling. It also stopped what little shimmy at 60-65 MPH I had normally in 2WD. So there's that. Most guys won't drive that fast in 4high on the highway so they probably don't know. My 2 cents.

 

Can barely comprehend what you're trying to convey, but I think you are saying you have a shake at 60-70 mph and the truck has only 8000 miles on it? You're also saying it's a 2023? If this is all true, more than likely you still have a warranty on it, but you gave very little information. Take it to the dealer, make them make it right.

 

I had it for over a year and a half until I took it to a shop that does road force tire balancing. I have 2 sets. OEM 20" wheels with winter tires and aftermarket 22" with all season tires.
Both sets had the dreaded wheel shake. I always thought it was the suspension, or some other issues as both set of wheels were doing it. The OEM 20" with new set of new winter tires were balanced on a regular balancing machine twice and had a shake, the 22" were brand new balanced on a regular balancing machine and had a shake hence i though it must be something else.
One day I had some time and found a tire shop that does road force balancing and gave it a try. Re-balanced both sets, the 22" they were able to balance 3 wheels and the 4th one they got close but could not get it perfect. They say something wrong with the wheel and they put it on the rear. That eliminated 97% of the shake, I can feel it just little bit between certain speed but it is very, very light. The 20" with winter tires turned out to be prefect. No shake at any speed, butter smooth, could not believe it and was kicking myself for not trying sooner.
I was ready to try the bushing, new shaft and it turn out to be the balancing... at least in my case.

 

Get your tires balanced as well as you can. That's about it. It's a truck platform from the turn of the century with limited on-road refinement. You can always just cruise above 70 mph.

 

Wheel balancing is the only thing that will correct it to a level where it's still going to be there but will not be bothersome.

 

Interesting. I just developed the same issue but at 10,000 miles. New Mickey's at 5,000 and no off-roading or letting the wife drive...

 

Being a truck platform has nothing to do with it. I had a 73 squarebody Chevy on front leaf springs that never did this.

I swear it's the stupid shank lugnuts on these. My theory is if you don't get them on JUST RIGHT you get the shimmy. A tech blasting the first lug tight with an impact is never going to get the wheel on there correctly.

 

As has been said, tire balance. I also have found/think the air pressure has made a little difference.

 

Follow this guide. It should get better if you can find a shop that knows what they're doing:

https://www.4runners.com/threads/the-official-guide-to-balancing-your-tires.28872/

 

You have a new(ish) 2023 and replaced the tires to fix a vibration problem?

 

I’ve wondered about this myself. The stock hubcentric wheels seem to center good, but you can clock them left and right a little bit. The lugnuts probably center them, but Im particular with centering the lugs in the hole perfectly before torquing anything. Not sure if it’s just in my head. Cleaning the wheel/hub face is important too.

 

Road Force Balance and try running tires a few psi lower than msg recommended. You can tell when Discount does it right versus when you did not emphatically stress that it be done. It’s like night and day obvious.
Bushing is more a light rumble on decel. Unlubed shaft is more during accel or when foot on go pedal. Wheel bearings are vibrations during turns and you can wobble or feel play tire when lifted. Chunky tires are
more an even hum at higher speeds. The more you drive the more you it will recognize all the variations/peccadillos/shitty engineering, etc. Seems like the number one solution to all though is louder stereo, lol.

 

I've never had a vehicle that was so finicky about getting the wheels on correctly. I end up threading them all in by hand till everything is seated and centered, and only then do I start to put any torque on them. And as I'm hand tightening them, I typically try to pick the wheel up as I'm tightening one of the top lug nuts first, My thinking being that will keep the wheel in about the correct place as I thread in the others.

I thought my Volvo with lug bolts was bad, but at least those have conical seats.

I had steering shimmy for quite a while, then one day I pulled the front wheels to check the brakes, spent an inordinate amount of time getting them back on correctly, then the shimmy was gone.

 

Good to know you solved a shimmy with just careful installation.

I’m a very slow worker when working on cars partly because I’m by default so damn finicky about little details like this. Maybe this is why I’ve largely lucked out with regard to shimmy. I had it briefly at specific speeds/smooth roads, but it lasted only a week and I dont recall if it went away because of a tire rotation or something In did. Knock wood, it stays like that.

 

I have the same issue with my 2024 ORP with 500 miles on it. I had the shimmy at 60-70 with the factory tires and still have it with a set of KO2s. I also had to take mine into the dealer to adjust the alignment which was off from the factory. I told the dealer about the shimmy and he advised I get the Road Force balance. So back to Discount Tire for a road force and still have the shimmy. The tire dealer tried to tell me the KO2s are hard to balance because they are a heavy tire, but I also have a 2001 Tundra and have been running the KO2s on it for years with zero issues. After 2 sets of tires with the same shimmy at the same speed, and reading others with similar experience, I’m convinced the problem is not tire balance.

 

Funny you mention the wife didn’t drive it. Mine won’t drive my car anymore because she doesn’t want to hear me. She was a curbaholic back in the day and anything bigger than a Mazda Miata was “too big “ to park.

 

What were the KO2's run-out numbers on your 4Runner?

 

Sorry, can’t tell you because it was free service so I didn’t bother keeping the receipt they gave me.

 

Wait a second. You just put on the wheels exactly how they teach you in EU driver’s school. Hand tight all then tighten with the wrench across from each other. E.g. 12 o clock then 6 o clock then 9 o clock and 3. Once they’re tight you release the jack and when the wheel sits on the ground you probably torque all of them. Or just step on the wrench and make sure it’s good and tight. You should check it after the first 50 miles again. I usually have my foot under the wheel when installing so I can properly center it on the hub.