Fog Light Replacement

Hi all,
just got SS3 Max for my 4R, pardon my ignorant but is it possible to remove and replace OEM fog light and install SS3 without removing the wheelwell liners ? all tutorials in seen YT requires either unclip it and/or drop the whole front bumper. Thanks

 

Try removing the top plastic cover just behind the grille. The one with 13 push clips. You might be able to reach down and do it. Loosening the edge of the fender liner is no big deal, however. It's like four bolts. You can then push it back and reach in. No need to remove it totally.

 

You can reach it from underneath. Here's a shot of the driver side;

 

I was able to replace mine from underneath. I think the drivers side i needed to partly remove the wheel well cover.

 

i see that the passenger side has a cover for the fog... im assuming i have to partial unbolt the liner to pull it off huh ...

 

also follow up question, my Pro is stock height so is it necessary to aim/readjust the aftermarket fog after install or is it one of those thing just install and good to go ?

 

My advice would be to find a wall somewhere where you can shine your oem fogs on at a specific distance, and make a reference mark. Then you can park in the same spot after installing the SS3 lights, turn on the fogs and compare. That should give you what you need. Maybe overly simplistic, but should get you in the ballpark.

 

I bent mine back for the install.

Have fun doing a combination of yoga and kama sutra to get that fog light shroud off on the passenger side.

 

I did the drivers side easily from underneath. For passenger side, unbolt the fender liner. Trust me. It will save you a lot of frustration.

For aiming. Don’t push the DD fogs all the way forward when installing. Leave about a 1/8” gap top and bottom. That will allow you to push in on the bottom edge of the light from the outside in order to aim in downward, resulting in about ~1/4” gap at bottom and no gap at the top. That little amount of “play” will give you some adjustability for aiming. If you get flashed a lot, just point it down a little more.

But marking OEM’s on a wall at a set distance is a good way to get a reference point.

 

100% aim

Especially if you got the MAX in regular WHITE light
They differ in power/brightness/ lumens/something? than if you opted for the amber

My AMBER PROS are extremely bright, albeit they’re in a hefty bumper with suspension but still MAX is gonna be briiiiiiiiiiiiiight

side note, bumper/lift or not, no need to tighten hardcore, which will allow you to adjust the aim easier if need be
However that’s with my my STANDARD bracket, not sure how it goes if you got the flush mount or oem replacement thingamajig

 

Diode Dynamics lists the outputs on their site. 31% light loss from 6000k to 3000k. Independent testing shows it’s only 19% though

 

yeeeeah I knew I read or watched something bout it when I got mine last black friday
Just didn’t know the specs offhand

regardless, the aiming of the lights really is considerate n performance/function based

so @bluecowisasian id just do what everyone is saying n find a wall or what not, 25feetish away
Aim accordingly so fog lights work as expected

this is 100% why I didn’t get flush mounts for my bumper…the hefty isn’t angled down at all, would have been easier/cleaner install but would have been pissing everyone off while driving

 

Did you get the amber backlight?
What do you think of the lights?