Do I "Need" a 3" Lift?

Since we're showing off our lifts now...

Sitting at nearly 4" of lift (w/ Dobinsons long travel shocks) on 34s.
Wheels are 17x8.5 -12 with spidertrax 1.25" spacers.

Backing it down to 3" of lift next week to allow for more down travel and make my CV's a little happier.
If it was just for show I'd leave it alone but I want longevity so backing it down an inch will be a smart move

 

Hey, if that's how my post came across, I apologize. I was referring to myself when I said pavement princess and mall crawler. (I wear those badges with PRIDE!). What I said was trying to be helpful or offer guidance. I wasn't criticizing you in any way. Outfit your rig however you want man.

 

Depends on who’s doing the chop. Some places don’t do it where it’s effective at all. I’ve always done the relocation on my Toyotas because it only has to be done once.

 

Yuup the full on relocation is the way to go if you're trying to future proof the rig for bigger tires. Some shop'ss BMCs are lack luster. Had to redo mine...
The new BMC and pinch weld mod looks great. Took a very experienced shop to pull it off.

 

Nice.

Ok so question: If you're running -12 with a 1.25" spacer, why not just run a larger offset on the wheel and no spacer?

 

Oh no, don't worry about it. No offense taken and I didn't think you were taking the piss at all

 

Cause I'm an idiot.

Bought the wheels at a -12 offset thinking that would be enough poke.
Wanted more. Tried the spacers and I dig the look so they're staying on


Edit: For context with the spacers it has the equivalent offset of a 17x9 -38

 

I'm also running -12 and 1.25" spacers. But with 1.25" of lift. I had done a bmc and trimmed ALOT. Still rubs from time to time.

 

You should add the spacers to the back to! You already did the hard part in the front

 

I like the poke personally.

 

Got it. Yeah, so that's what I'm trying to avoid lol. Looks like most people get the -12 and after a short time run spacers because they want more poke. Then sell the wheels and get -38 and no spacer. I was trying to avoid all that and just go whole hog from the start.

What all have you done to get them to fit without rubbing?

 

Looks good! Running no spacers in the rear?

 

Yeah, that looks real nice. What are the setup details? Wheels, tires, suspension, any work done to clear.

 

W/ 34's?
Pinch weld mod. Very aggressive BMC. See post 34.

I also did a viper cut of sorts. Albeit not a very high cut as I don't like that look much.

 

The 7x9 -38mm looks great!

I went with 7x8.5 -10mm Ray 10’s.

Many say “buy once, cry once”

 

Yeah those look great to me and the first one is one of the reasons I got the -38. I have a lunar rock Pro as well and mine will potentially look a lot like that. BTW, that guy is running -38 offset WITH an additional spacer too lol

 

Nope, just in the front. One thing I will say with the wider stance. Good luck keeping your 4r clean.

 

This is true. Doesn't help that you have to ditch the mud flaps to fit big tires xD

 

Ok... lé sigh... I am exchanging the -38 for -10 offsets. I love the look of the -38 but I don't want to deal with the potential hassle that comes with them. Will run SCS Blaze 10, 8.5x17 -10 and do a 1" lift spring in the rear (Eibach probably) and some sort of coilovers for a 2" lift in front (or wherever it looks good once I get 'em on). Currently have TRD Pro and stock Fox shocks already provide a 1" lift. So it'll be 1" higher than that.

I could also stick with stock rear springs and keep front at 1". At least then I know I won't deal with any potential issues requiring diff drop (unlikely at only 2"), needing a panhard correction in the rear, and a zero set point recalibration.

Trying to decide between Fox Performance Elite 2.5s or Dirt Kings (Elka) 2.5. Staying away from Kings because I prefer an aluminum body vs steel. Fox is a larger, "proven" company. But their customer service hasn't been amazing so far and there are reported issues of the DSC adjusters on their shocks seizing due to corrosion. So I'm not sure what to do there. If I get Fox, it'll be from Accutune. The control arms I want (Dobinson) are backordered 2-3 months. Whereas the Dirt King setup has their new UCA with decent Moog Problem Solvers and DK's new bushings on the frame pivot side so these look like decent options to minimize maintenance and noise. But DK is relatively unproven even though Elka makes 'em. But to be fair, Elka makes Toytec's too.

 

Why not just get the eibach springs or wd lift for your trd fox shocks? Unless you wanna spend $$$$ for a higher end suspension

 

Answered that earlier. But part of the reason is I'm close to needing new shocks anyway.

My stock ones are about due for a rebuild. So I could chance it and install Eibach TRD Pro springs and then wait for the stock shocks to actually fail. In which case, I already paid a shop to install the new springs anyway (which requires r/r). Or I could send the stock shocks back to Fox for a rebuild. But that will take many weeks and I can't be without a vehicle. Or I could buy new replacement factory shocks. But why do that when the cost of aftermarket coilovers isn't much higher.

EDIT:
Actually, just found stock Fox suspension for a decent price. Throw some Eibach springs on for 1.4"/1.0" lift and call it good.

 

is one of the spokes of the wheel red to indicate true north?

 

Nope, it’s there to look good at the mall

 

No. You don't need anything really

 

I'm sure it's the best looking 4runner at the mall any day of the week

 

I got a 8.5 inch lift..

Course its sitting on jack stands. Otherwise 2.5. The 285s always look good, but damn they get heavy.

 

Exchanged the wheels today. The -10s look good but yeah... nowhere near as aggressive. Now just deciding between Eibach springs on stock Fox shocks or aftermarket coilovers.

 

What is your end goal on lift height now?

I assume the forum talked you out of the 3" lift

 

I've been thinking about if I get a supercharger I would probably lower it by removing the wheels and putting it on low jack stands. The converse of this. So I can actually reach back into the engine bay.