Wouldn’t pass smog.

Well my 1990 wouldn’t pass smog, I let the registration lapse, only because our mechanic was on vacation. Well he’s back and I dropped the 4Runner off on Thursday. He said I’ll have it ready Friday with a smog certificate. I also requested he do the rear brakes and flush, replace fluid and put a new starter in it. My check engine light was faithfully now glowing.

Well he called late Friday and said, your truck is 3X the limit on one side, 7X on the other. I said, whatever takes, fix it right I just want my 4 runner fixed. I kinda expected to hear from him Saturday but nope….no call.

I guess my 4 runner is giving him a good run for the money. I’ll report back with what it was and the cost when it’s all done.

Prior to this, in 7 years that I’ve owned my truck it never failed a smog test. I also called Flagship One about purchasing a new ECM but they need me to pull it to match the exact part number.

 

Oh man. Sorry to hear. I am subscribed to hear the outcome of this event.

 

Here's to getting your rig back in your hands and on the road soon!

 

Well since I posted, hard to believe it’s been since August I’m still struggling with now a check engine light. I hadn’t posted because I lost my password and a back surgery kinda set me back.

Our mechanic did get my truck to pass smog….BUT did not finish the job or work I had requested. Which was to diagnose the check engine, fix it, flush and change all fluids and a few other things. They had my truck for a week, called me saying it was ready and they had the pass smog paper for me.

Ok great ! A day before my surgery.

I picked up the 4Runner and went straight to a DMV kiosk and registered it. Noticing right away the check engine light came right on and the truck was very hard to start. Went straight home parked the runner, somewhat relieved and $1000 lighter in the wallet. I had to take it easy for a week after my procedure so the 4Runner sat for about a week and half before I could really take it for a drive.

First outing I hit a few stores, check engine light still coming right on and really hard to start. I hit the freeway and within 5 minutes the truck lost power, overheated, which it’s never done, wouldn’t stay running and with the AC on would instantly die. I had to pull to the side of the road and let it cool down. I headed home right away and parked. The following day I went right the mechanic and they stuffed me off like they were to busy, 15 years we’ve been going there.

The following day, I went out and put a timing light on the runner, the timing mark was about an inch and a 1/2 past the timing marker, past the 15 degree mark. That explains the rough starting and overheat. I can’t believe they gave my truck back to me like that. I set it back to 10 degrees and instant improvement.

So found another mechanic, 5 star reviews and a Toyota, Lexus specialist recommended through a friend. He had my truck for a week, just got it back. He reset my timing, did something to make it idle better. But now over 4000 rpm it acts like it’s sputtering and starving for gas, timing out and check engine light is on. I called him midweek to ask what he found, he said I need new engine, then on Friday called me and said my runner is ready to pick up. When I picked it up he said, my distributor was bad, could be a knock sensor or something else I can’t remember. I asked why we’re not fixing it and he wouldn’t give me an answer.

I don’t know what’s up with these so called mechanics but I’m giving up and going to try myself. About $2000 spent now, it’s smogged but still not running right.

Yesterday I sent my original denso injectors to LCE to be serviced and bought a Spectra Premium Distributor. I’m going to take the 4 hole injectors out and replace the eBay distributor and cross my fingers.

 

Sad thing is some “mechanics” have a title they do not deserve. Sorry to hear your having trouble with the car. If you want something done right sometimes you just have to do it yourself. Which stinks when you already spent $2000

 

Did you run the codes? On a 1990 is it the old OBD1? All you need is a paperclip. I know the codes for OBD1 are iffy, but it does point you in a general direction.

I would never take your car to a mechanic until you have those codes. I've made that mistake before and never again.

 

Not yet, it is the OBD1. The plan is to wait, I think the Injectors will be back this coming week. I want the 4 hole Chinese ones out of my truck so as soon as they come back I’m going to do both, install the new distributor and injectors and put a new PCV a valve in which I forgot to do last time I had the plenum off.

Then we’ll see what happens, if she runs right and the light stays off and the lagging over 4300 rpms stops then I’m good. If not I had a friend over today that’s says he’ll help me with code reading and all. I’m seriously starting to consider pulling the motor and having it gone through and rebuilt. I guess at 196,000 it might be due but the way I’ve maintained it over last 7 years I really expected another 100,000 before going there.

Before that happens though a quick compression check should really tell if it’s time or not.

 

Always pull the codes first. You are going to do a bunch of changes and won't know if the check engine light is on because of the old code or a new one you introduced.

 

Following .... I hope the op gets it all sorted and back on the road !

 

negusm, I know your right. These are 2 things I want to do regardless of the codes. What really sucks is I’ve paid 2 mechanics to do this and neither one did. It pisses me off I’m being forced to do it now. Thank god for the Internet ! I’m reading up on it now BUT it’s something I REALLY DON’T WANT TO DO.

The only option I haven’t done is taking it to a Toyota Dealership, I guess that’s because I’m not prepared to pay those high labor rates. Anyway if any of you feel like posting a link to help reading what the codes are I’d appreciate it. I’ll be looking this morning and printing stuff out so I can read the codes as they flash. My buddy says there’s only 28-29 different ones.

 

https://www.troublecodes.net/toyota/

If you plan on keeping this rig, buy an OBD1 reader. You need to get used to doing these things. Mechanics are not interested in dealing with non computerized systems and if you think the TOYOTA dealer is any different? I have some bad news.

 

Well, installed my Denso injectors back from LCE, they did a great job. Installed new distributor. Check engine light came right on. Truck is idling all kinds of crazy. Won’t stay running when AC is on.

Thanks for the link negusm, studied everything I could and did the OBD1 paper clip deal. Code 25 is all I get. As of now the MAF Sensor is the only thing not replaced. From what I’m reading that thing fails and it’s describing just about every problem I’m having now.

Soooooooo since there’s NO new or rebuilt MAF Sensors in the United States for a 3.0 3VZ engine I had to order one out of Japan for $270 bucks. I’m not willing to go used from eBay. So somewhere between the 15th and 22nd of October it should be here. And I’m praying this does it.

And it wasn’t hard to read the code thing, why these 2 mechanic’s couldn’t do it I don’t know but I’m never taking it to a shop again.

I’ll update when the MAF is installed.

 

Good luck. Did you try cleaning MAF? At least worth a try for a temp fix and to see if she runs differently at all.

I'm waiting for 3rd gen parts. Things seem really slow...I have a bad feeling that I may be waiting much longer than expected due to covid shortages.

Modern day mechanics simply don't want to deal with cars that they can't use a computer to diagnose.

 

Here are the codes for the 3VZE.

Code 25 is a lean mixture, make sure all of your vacuum hoses are attached and in good condition. Any large vacuum leak will cause a lean mixture.

 

88-91 Pickup 2.4L Engine Code: 22R-E
88-91 Pickup 3.0L Engine Code: 3VZ-E
88-91 4Runner 2.4L Engine Code: 22R-E
88-91 4Runner 3.0L Engine Code: 3VZ-E
Trouble code Fault location Probable Cause
11 Engine control module (ECM) power supply Wiring, ignition switch, engine control relay, ECM
12 Engine speed (RPM) sensor -circuit Wiring, RPM sensor, ignition module, ECM
13 Engine speed (RPM) sensor -above 1000 rpm Wiring, RPM sensor, ignition module, ECM
14 Ignition reference signal -no signal Wiring, ignition module/coil, ECM
21 Heated oxygen sensor (H02S) -front circuit Wiring, H02S, ECM
22 Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor circuit Wiring, ECT sensor, ECM
24 lntake air temperature (lAT) sensor-circuit Wiring, lAT sensor, ECM
25 Mixture control -continuously lean Wiring, injector, H02S, ECTNAF sensor, intake/fue/lignition system, ECM
26 Mixture control -continuously rich Wiring, injector, fuel system, cold start injector, H02S, VAF sensor, ECM
27 Heated oxygen sensor (H02S)-rear-circuit Wiring, H02S, ECM
31 Volume air flow (VAF) sensor-circuit Wiring, VAF sensor, ECM
32 Volume air flow (VAF) sensor-circuit Wiring, VAF sensor, ECM
35 Barometric pressure (BARO) sensor-circuit Wiring, BARO sensor, ECM
41 Throttle position (TP) sensor -circuit Wiring, TP sensor, ECM
42 Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) -circuit Wiring, VSS, ECM
43 Starter signal -circuit Wiring, ignition switch, ECM
51 Switch signal -A/C switch ON during diagnosis Wiring, A/C switch, A/C amplifier, ECM
51 Switch signal -closed throttle position (CTP) switch OFF during diagnosis Wiring, CTP switch, ECM
51 Switch signal -park/neutra! position (PNP) switch not in P or N during diagnosis Wiring, PNP switch, ECM
52 Knock sensor (KS) -circuit Wiring, KS, ECM
53 Knock control malfunction ECM
71 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system malfunction Hose leak/blockage, wiring, EGRT sensor, EGR

This is a more complete version. On that list the ECTNAF or MAF Sensor is the last original sensor, 31 years is pretty decent life. I hope the new one lasts that long…LOL.

Thanks for posting that JTM and negusm yeah things are getting tight good luck with getting the parts you need.

 

Well, complete fail with the new MAF Sensor. It’s running even worse now, won’t hold idle, idles extremely rough and is fluctuating up and down, puffing black smoke bigtime, gas smell out the exhaust and while I had the wife in the truck I’ve got a pretty gnarly knock now. Everything I’ve done is making the 4Runner worse and worse. Being as I don’t know what the mechanic did to get it to pass smog, then taking it to the other guy who got it to idle again I have no idea what they’ve done.

Check engine light will go off when forced to idle and come back on when I hit the gas. I’m blown away how bad things have gotten. Crazy how I went from purring like a kitten to a complete POS.

I’m compression testing it first thing in the morning. Looks like it’s supposed to be 171 Psi with a 14 psi variance allowed. So I’ll report back with the numbers in the morning and we’ll see……stay tuned.

I think I may compete with gatorgrl for the longest thread LOL…

 

Check for a vacuum leak. Use the brake cleaner/maf cleaner test. Spray around the intake on a running engine and see if the idle changes.

 

There’s no vacuum leaks, all the hoses have been replaced and it’s been checked, looked over more times than I care to count. Here’s the results from the compression check.

Cylinder 1 145
Cylinder 2 120
Cylinder 3 90
Cylinder 4 130
Cylinder 5 140
Cylinder 6 125

So the engine is coming out. Going to be rebuilt and while it’s out everything is going to be gone through and tested.

I’m probably going to replace the ecm while we’re at it. Has exactly 196700.0 miles on her.

 

Been looking like this for awhile. Hopefully back from the machine shop soon.

 

Finally back from the machine shop, long story short I had to pick it up and take it to another place. Son and I put the short block in Friday. Lots of new parts to go in next.

 

New LCE heads on, cams and the rest of the front end going on today.

 

Well everything has gone really smooth, top end is 100% finished. New TPS, New Cold Start fuel injector + a bunch more. I routed all vacuum hoses according to the Haynes Repair Manual. It. Was so tempting to start after I put the key in the ignition for the first time in almost 6 months.

But….I did this,



So this morning I’m ciphering how I’m going to route the new crossover pipe which I’m fabing myself. So maybe 5-6 hours I should have it done and ready to start. I’m praying that it all works and I’m done.

 

Well, no joy yesterday . Saturday when I was test fitting the upper intake plenum it slipped out of my left hand and only from a height of maybe 2 inches it hit the back of the cold intake fuel hose. I said to my self….shit, I pulled it back up and off and inspected the hose for any damage, couldn’t see anything visible so I went ahead and proceeded.

About 5pm nervous as could be I finally put the key in and gave her a go, I knew it was going to take a minute for the fuel to get up to pressure so after about 30 seconds she bumped ! Oh Man ! But I could smell gas. I jumped out to have a look and fuel is gushing out through the top of the outer sleeve of the CSI hose near the upper banjo fitting .

I brought the wife out to look while I turned it over again……yep ! Fuel everywhere. I guess I did damage the hose so the top end has to come apart, again….sigh….so I can replace that damn hose. The Mcguyver in me want to head to Ace Hardware and get the correct size bolt and just block the damn thing off. The good news is, it sounded right just turning over and bumping, I'm pretty sure I got everything right. The new hose is coming from Yotashop for $129.00, I don’t know how long it will take to get here. I’m going to pull everything apart today so I’ll be ready.





So on the crossover pipe, I salvaged the flanges from the 2 I had, bought a few pieces from Oriellys and did the whole thing for about $30. Took awhile to cypher and I made it removable so any work that needs to be done in the future it’s completely removable.

What I don’t understand is why Toyota didn’t do this from the factory, I didn’t loose any ground clearance and it’s still in front of the sensor. Anyway here’s a few pictures of what I did. I know it looks close but there’s about 3/4 inch clearance from the front driveshaft.

Oh, I hate cats, not really but the neighborhood strays that leave paw prints down my windshield and pee on my tires .

 

Severe depression setting in, she fired for the first time. I had to run the distributor as far left as I could and it refused to idle but sounded pretty good. Timing mark was jumping 3-4 degrees. And it smells rich already from the exhaust. The only thing that hasn’t been replaced is the ECM. I doubled checked everything. I may be off a tooth on the distributor but the engine light immediately came back on.

I’m searching for a quality Toyota-Import Shop before I go any further . I also called Flagship One about purchasing a new ECM but they need me to pull mine to match the exact part number.

 

man, i just read this and that is a hell of a journey you've been on. good on you for sticking with it, i think a lot of us would have trashed it a long time ago. It seems like you are so close to the finish too, keep at it and good luck sourcing the ECM.

 

bthp222, My Sons 90 has a light on and we have yet to know what has gone astray but it is running fine so far with fingers crossed it doesn't get as bad as you have had it!

One thing I would suggest is that you drill and tap out the banjo bolt by the oil cap so you can monitor the fuel rail pressure after you get it running. After I rebuilt my engine I came to realize I had a blocked vacuum line on my pressure regulator that had the engine running way too rich because the pressure regulator could not bleed off extra fuel pressure when decelerating. One of the steel vacuum line pipes was full of rusty crap which caused the problem and I almost ruined a new CAT in the process. Also get your self some FSM's they are really good for trouble shooting problems. The Haynes and Chilton's books are a joke for the OBD1 3VZ-E and leave a lot to be desired in understanding the entire fuel injection system on this motor. I feel you pain mate its is an exemplary effort you have put forth.

 

Hey Parker, good to see you around. I had to step back and take a break. I’ll check that hose and regulator, as of now my plan is to install the LCE EGR block off, replace the ECM and pull, clean inspect my throttle body assembly. I’m going to get back on TDC and recheck my timing, I think I’m off one tooth. Then with fingers crossed everything comes back to life and she lives again. Such beautiful weather right now it’s long overdue to get back out exploring !

 

Hey, do the LCE heads have any enlarged valve diameter going on or any porting?

As your in this pretty deep, when you do the timing pull the dowls out of the cams so that the pulleys can spin on the cams without the ruddy valve springs pushing your cam pulleys about as you set the belt tension. Use the spring on the tensioner to get it right and spin the crank shaft two or three times to be sure the belt is finding center on all the pulleys. Then set the locking machine bolt that draws the tensioner pully to the block and makes it ridged. Then just rotate the crank shaft till the slot in the pulley/s line up and slide the dowels back into the cams and then tighten the can pulley bolts. You really need a tool to hold the pulley's which you can make if you can weld crap together. The 3VZ-E is non-interference, so this works a charm in getting the belt set right without killing your tensioner pulleys and/or the water pump if you get it too tight while battling with the valve springs when you don't pull the dowel pins etc...

I just swapped out the G-Plus two-row aluminum radiator I had which pop the radiator cap when I was in Utah at Sand Hollow in 106-degree heat. The swap is a three row LUXERAD with a 16 inch no name brand s-blade type fan like the Zirgo I had put on my two-row. So, hoping this will weather super harsh high temperature sand dune running the next time I get out there!

 

I should have done some measuring and taken more pictures before installing them Parker, the only thing that I did notice on the paperwork was it said that the heads would only support up to 5000 rpm, beyond that they needed something. I kept them in the factory packaging right up to the day I installed them.

Thank you for the timing tip, the engine is completely assembled as of now. Today I’m rotating everything back to TDC and marking the rotor and I’m going to see if I can move it back one tooth, that should get me to full timing adjustment. I ordered the fuel pressure regulator and it should be here today. Mine looks original so what the heck, might as well replace it. The other task for today is to get to the ECM and hopefully it’s behind the kick panel and not under the dash.

I guess on your radiation that I hope it helps. I’m surprised that the 2 row you had couldn’t keep up. I’m still using my stocker and never had an issue overheating in the 7 years I’ve had mine, up to the point that mechanic retarded my timing and the engine overheated, blew.

I also wanted to give a shout out to LCE & Yotashop, both have been stellar for everything I’ve ordered and everything was shipped super fast.

The only caveat is if you order the new head bolts from LCE, it shows them with washers. You DO NOT get the washers, bolts only. I don’t know if they’ve changed the picture but they are not included and I was told your on your own, I didn’t keep track of my originals anticipating I was getting new ones. So if you get into that situation make sure you bag and keep your original washers.

 

I never explained what caused my check engine to come on in the first place so I’ll give the short version and if any of you read this and connect it to something I’m missing please chime in.

Last year my Grandfather passed, I got the call he was only going to make it another 24 hours or so. I called a friend and immediately hit the road to go see him. He passed a short few hours after I left, 103 and WWll Veteran. He was like a father to me and one of the greatest men I’ve known.

It’s a 1200 mile round trip, on the way back after being up for close to 40 hours I asked my buddy to drive for awhile I had hit my limit and needed to rest for a few. So he takes over and we’re on backroads coming out of Vacaville, as I start to dose off I feel the truck lurching in a weird way, I look over and he’s doing this weird shit with my cruise control.

Mind you the speed limit is 35-40 in the area. I’m like bro what are you doing ? Slapping my buttons on the steering wheel all weird.

No sooner do I ask him to stop, the truck makes this weird jerk, sound and the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT comes on, first time ever since I’ve owned the truck, I’m like dude what did you do ??????? Delirious I make him pull over and I drive all the way back to Vegas. Which we obviously made it but I could tell something had changed.

So literally 7 years of great service from my 4Runner, since that morning, here we are, coming this far and it’s still on. I don’t know what gremlin is haunting me but it’s proved to be a SOB, 2 mechanics and all the work I’ve done, man.