TRD Skid Plate Mounted w/ Studs 2010-2025

Complete thread can be found @ The purpose of this write up is to help others that may have or thought about using studs or bolts that act as studs while mounting the TRD Skid Plate.

DISCLAIMER: If you decide to do this mod, you are doing this at your own risk. Period.


If you have removed your OEM skid plate and are planning on installing a TRD Skid Plate, I advise chasing the mounting threads with a M10x1.25 tap or thread chaser.


The TRD Skid Plate arrives with the front bolts installed in the skid with a spacer and a retaining washer to hold the spacer in place on the bolt.


I removed the retaining washers and the spacers and put them aside.


Items ordered came from Belmetric & McMaster-Carr.


EDITED VERSION Rev 1.1


For the Rear Location
I used 2) JIS Medium-Strength Steel Hex Head Screws, M10 x 1.25 mm Thread, 70 mm Long bolts and came in from the top of the threaded part on the radiator support.
With a backing nut or jam nut on the bolt, place a washer on top of the radiator support, insert & adjust to length (3/4") and tighten nut, bolt will be locked in place.....
Never seize should be used sparingly to coat the threads for ease of removal.

For the Front Location
I had to make the fronts with 2) JIS Medium-Strength Steel Hex Head Screws, M10 x 1.25 mm Thread, 70 mm Long bolts cut with Dremel Tool to total length of 2 5/8” to bottom out in the forward radiator location.
I used 2) NJAM10X1.25YLW - Jam Nut Yellow Zinc to tighten the now cut bolts into place.
I used blue loctite on the fronts.
Once the front bolts have been installed, remove the jam nuts.
Now place the spacers on the forward bolts and slide them up into the recessed bracket holes, using a small vice grip, thread the retaining washers onto the bolt until it is tight against each spacer.
If there is a small bent area on the retaining washers, they will flatten out when the skid is tightened up or using the jam nut and a washer, one could flatten the retaining washers out prior to putting the skid plate on. Remove the jam nut and washer!

All bolts were Yellow Zinc.

Stainless Belleville Washers (WB16SS - Stainless Belleville Washer) and Stainless Acorn Nuts (NA10X1.25SS - Acorn Nut FINE Stainless) were used.


>>> NOTE <<< One could also use Stainless Flat washers (WFHV10SS - HARDENED Flat Washer Stainless Steel) and Stainless Lock Washers (WL10SS - Lock Washer Stainless Steel) if they prefer.
I am going to use oxide coated black hardware myself.

Install skid, install washer(s) and acorn nut(s).
Make sure the bolt/stud protrudes only 1/2” below skid.
You don’t want the bolt/stud to bottom out in the acorn nut !

Tighten to specs!

 

Thanks for working this all out for us!
Everything was spot on. Just installed mine tonight.

 

Thank you sir.
This little mod was a progress. I tried different methods for the studs and was not happy with store bought studs that ended up being too soft. That’s why I resorted to the bolts used. All measurements were triple checked to make this mod as easy as possible.
My Toyota Tech stated Toyota should have done this from the factory or port with TRD Skid Plates. (Should have included a kit with the skid plate)
Glad it helps someone else!
Enjoy

 

Anyone else tried this mod and was satisfied or… found something I overlooked?
Please reply and thanks for your input!

 

One of the best mods out there. I kinda want to do it to the rest of the skid plates.

 

Thank you @Charlievee
If you do & and make a write up, I can tag the link onto this mod as well (and obviously give you the creds)!

 

So I am going back and fourth with Toyota because at 1k miles on the first oil change a tech used an impact to Insert and tighten one of the 4 bolts on the trd skid plate, instead of hand tightening to thread a bolt. Idiot. Sucker for free oil changes but turns out nothing is free.

if I was to use this work around would I need to install another rivet nut if it the original tapped out? It may even be mangled since the fix they just attached the bolt to the skid plate and only three are in the frame now. This is the best precautionary measure I have seen for this and I should have done the second the runner was in the garage.

I am also wondering why you cut the head off the bolt. I haven’t looked at the angle yet but is their no space to the the head?

 

I imagine the bolt heads are cut off because they have to be threaded up from the bottom, and couldn't be if the heads were not cut off.

 

100% Correct!