Transmission Nightmare

Hello! And thank you in advance for taking time to read my post, this is my first!

7 months ago I bought a 2007 2wd V6 4Runner with 196,000 miles on it for $7900. Im no mechanic, but I looked over the entire vehicle and did not spot anything concerning, no signs of leaks or built up gunk anywhere, cosmetically its pretty nice for being 13 years old, only issue was Tire Pressure light was on, the used car dealer told me they can be sensitive and if even off the slightest the light will show, in 3 other cars Ive had that's always been an issue so I didn't think it a large concern. The car was listed AsIs but they also gave me a 3 month/3000 mile warranty so I felt like I jad a good deal.

I drive about 700-800 miles a week on average for work. So about 5 months later i start feeling the steering wheel jolt when braking, I felt a vibration when driving and the steering feels loose so I take it to a Firestone amd they tell me my front rotors are warped and inner tie rods need to be replaced and Im looking at $750 bill, this is after 2 months prior I had to replace 2 tension pulleys, alternator and battery for total of $700.
Then Firestone Mech tells me theres differential oil sprayed over the underside of my vehicle and they cant provide info because they dont do that there.
So I take it to a Meinke that jas really good reviews, they offer me a $2400 estimate to replace control arm, ball joints, repkace gaskets on universal joint and transfer box, transmission fluid flush and replace and same with differential fluid, this was afyer a 20 minute inspection. I didnt have that much money and wanted a second opinion.

A week later my TRAC light and emhine check light come on, I check the codes and get P2714 plus another one so shift and pressure control solenoids are bad, take it to an Aamco and they tell me I meed a new valve body and the solenoids cannit be replaced. (Mind you at this point the vehicle jerks when coming to a stop, will stay at 3000rpm for moment before shifting and its hard to keep the vehicle straight when driving), so they go ahead and fill the tranny fluid cause thats also whats leaking under the vehicle (oddly there is never any fluid on the ground when the vehicle is parked and has sat so part of the reason why this all took me by surprise) they did that cAuse I asled them to so I could get home and leave it parked while I figured out money to spend.
The owner at the shop said he would check with his "tech guys" about changing the solenoids and would get back to me, and never got back to me, an I paid 100 for the tran fluid fill.

3 days later I take it to a mechanic shop with great ratings and reviews .5 mile doen street from me. He tells me not to bother with changing solenoids cause it may not work and would be waste of money. He advised me to look for used transmissions and can find one for 800 or less, and he seemed to be most reasonable and honest avout it all and told me I need to do that before anything else

Any advice from anyone on best route to take would be amazingly helpful... Like I said Im no mechanic, I wasnt raised learning to work on cars and what I know and have done has been learned from Youtube.

Thank you anyone for your time and advice

 

Hmm, I don’t understand why one shop wanted to change your ball joints and control arms when it seems your transmission is the issue? I think your best bet, and maybe most cost effective, is to follow the advice from the third shop. Buy a used transmission, and get it installed and rid yourself of any further issues your current one may have. Not a professional opinion, but if I was in your shoes that’s what I would do. The initial shaking could’ve been very well your worn rotors and inner tie rods (hopefully it remedied it).

 

I usually have better luck at a solid independent mechanic vs the chain shops.

 

Didnt have the money at the time to replace brakes and tie rods and since the issue with the transmission the vehicle has been sitting for 3 weeks now cause its unsafe to drive at this point. Im angry with the circumstances an just want my own vehicle back. But yes, I feel best is to handle transmission first then do brakes and tie rods, and after that ball joints/control arm if needed.

 

So you have been to three different shop and been told 3 different things. I would find a shop that specializes in imports if you can. Don't tell them about what the other shops said and just tell them the issue and see what they say. Stay away from quick lube chain shops like Meineke, Aamco and such. Worse case scenario, take it to the dealer to have it diagnosed. Good luck.

 

Find someone who specializes in truck repairs, pickups/SUV's/4x4's...........not a shop like meineke where they work on cars 90% of the time.
If I commuted to work 800 miles a week like the OP said, then I would want a newer vehicle with a longer warranty. Just my opinion. I commute 100 miles a week, so an older truck would be fine for me.

 

The trans fluid flush at 196k miles was likely the first one, and that's where the problems potentially started. Fluid has a service life, and trans fluid has a lot of detergent in it. It cleans the valve bodies and torque converter. Problem is, the material from the torque converter and gunk accumulated in the fluid, giving it a "grittyness." That, like sandpaper, allows adhesion to things like clutch packs. When fresh, clean, detergent laden fluid appeared after that long, the "grip" the fluid had is gone, and the clutches in the trans were likely long gone, but that grit was making them work.

In other words, and I've spoken to a few mechanics about this: "Either do it at the recommended intervals or never do it at all." I can personally attest to losing a Chevy Silverado trans at 80k miles after it's first service. The issues started shortly thereafter. Fortunately, I had warranty and it was on them.

I'd like some other mechanically minded people to either dispute this theory or add some helpful information to it.