Transmission Issue on 2nd Gen not shifting out of 4L until warm

I’m looking for advice on which route to go with my 2nd gen trans. I understand its a game of rolling the die and hoping that things work out. Couple of considerations - 218k miles bought it for 3k. So I’ve experienced an issue where when I leave my care for more than 8 hours and its fully cooled down and then go to start it up and drive it will stay in the low range gear box for the first couple miles of driving. It wont go above 20 mph and has the distinctive low range whining sound. Then once it warms up (the trans specifically) it will shift into the high range gear box and work perfectly for the rest of driving. I can shift it into 4L and 4H and it will stay in both of those also with no issues. I took it to a trans shop and they said that the valve body is most likely worn or has metal shavings in it and so the transmission would need an entire rebuild (cost 3k). So at this point I’m not entirely sure what to do. I could replace the trans entirely with a used one and risk that it goes out in 20k miles. I could just replace the valve body and see if I could milk more out of this trans. I could clean the valve body in which case idk how much better it would get. Or I could just run the trans into the ground and replace it with a new one once it blows. Or I could just try and sell the car and get a different 4Runner. I like the 2nd gen the most and would like to stay with it so I could just be running into the same issue if I bought a new one. Any suggestions would awesome!

 

Are you saying that it is not shifting into the drive gear until after it has warmed up? If so then that is normal. It will stay in the lower gear until the tranny fluid hits a certain temp at which time it will shift. It usually happens at the 2 to 3 mile range depending on outside temp.

Eidt: Sorry didn't see where you said it won't go above 20 mph. Will it go above 20mph if you leave it in 4H?
And have you done a drain and fill recently? Level of fluid is correct? Have you tried pulling codes?

 

Also, remember that 4L is reserved for low speed crawling and should never be used above 20 mph.

 

Yeah it will stay in the low gear even it I have it in 4H. And yeah that’s the main issue. I don’t wanna be using the low range every time I start as well. Fluid level is good as well as color but I think a fluid flush and filter swap is my next step. Is there anyway to flush the valve body while it’s still in the trans?

 

I am also looking for advice regarding the automatic trans in my '95 SR5 4Runner. I had the transmission completely rebuilt in July 2020. I live in central Arizona, so it wasn't much noticeable until summer became not-summer that first year (AZ anywhere south of Prescott only has two seasons; summer and not-summer), but the transmission will not go into OD until it is fully warmed up. I don't mean the engine, because that fully warms up normally like any other car. But the Runner won't shift into OD until after about 10 miles, even at freeway speeds. I'm talking about if the vehicle has sat overnight, or until fully cooled down on a day that is less than 100°, it takes about 10 to 15 minutes of driving.

I'm new here. Do any of you guys know anything about this condition?

 

Yeah sounds like a similar issue to mine. I’d take it to a trans shop. I took mine to a trans shop and they said it needs a rebuild.

 

I guess that's why I don't want to take it to a trans shop. It just got completely rebuilt in July 2020 and it's done that ever since. But it's not very noticeable on hot days because the transmission warms up much more quickly than on cool days. And it's hot in the Phoenix area until close to the end of October.

With all the ancillary other parts, the cost of the rebuilt trans and transfer case was a little over $4,600.

 

There are several things you can check and do to try and save it. 4 Speed Automatic Transmission with Overdrive as follows:
1. Pull the transmission trouble codes, if any from the O.D. Off Light. T-1- TE-1 Jump, O.D. Off. Count the light flashes repeatedly, until all codes are displayed. Button it back up.
2. Replace parts accordingly. Easy ones firsts. #1-2 VSS, TTS ect.
3. Do a full transmission fluid flush. This operation takes 2 people. After driving and warm it to operating temperature in ALL gears, shut it off. Drain the pan and replace plug. Disconnect the transmission cooling lines from the radiator. Get a new 5 gallon of Dex-Merc and empty 5 bucket. Insert the intake side hose into the new 5 gallon. Insert the output hose into the empty. Start and idle, going through all gears repeatedly, as the new fluid is drawn in. Helper shoots the old fluid into the empty until it turns nice and red with fluid from the new 5. Button everything up, test drive a few miles and re-check levels several times, at least 3 at operating temperature. Ad or remove fluid as needed to get it perfect on the stick.
4. The Knockdown Cable on the throttle, 3 Solenoids, A new Filter replacement. These are inside jobs, requiring a pan drop. Might as well do everything inside the pan, if you drop it.
Hope This Helps To Save It.
Salome AZ.

 

Thank you, Pyro, for the comprehensive response. I'll carefully look into the steps you provided.