Trans Fluid Change Issues

So I've lurked here for a bit, not much for posting, but definitely used this place as a resource.

Anyway, I recently changed out the transmission fluid and filter. I was trying to follow a procedure from on here, but I don't have a good bucket for refilling, so I went with plan B and hope.
I drained the pan, dropped the pan and cleaned it out, along with all 4 magnets. Pulled the filter off, and put the new one in. The new filter didn't want to push up much, so I ended up pushing the best I could and use the bolts to try to pull it up the rest. With the clean pan, overflow and drain plugs back in, I put 3 qts straight into the pan, put the new gasket on and bolted it back up. For the 4th qt, I used a manual transfer pump to push it in through the filler hole.
To make my life easier, I jacked the front end up, so after tightening everything up, I dropped it back on the ground, started it up and let it idle in park for a bit, then cycled through all the gears, including using the manual mode to go 1-5. Turn it off, jumper pin 13 to 4 with a piece a scrap wire, toggle N to D and back to get into the test mode, and let it warm up to the right temp. Once D was solid, I cycled through all the gears gears again for good measure, then pulled the overflow plug, let it get to a trickle, then closed it up. On a guess, I'd say I put 3.75 qts of new fluid in.

Next day, since the 4runner is wifey's, she took it out. She called me complaining that the 4runner was revving up, but seemed to have no power at the top of our driveway (about a quarter mile and uphill). She came back and I took it out, and didn't have the same experience. I took it out a day or 2 later, and felt it revving but not grabbing in gear, but it improved once it warmed up.
Today, I dropped the pan again (full and that was a futher mucker). Per protocol, I of course spilled some, but not on myself, I'm guessing about half a quart. I pulled the filter, and messed with that to make sure the gasket was seated in there right, and bolted it back in. Once I got the pan back on, I took my other vehicle, I went and got another quart of fluid, and put that into the 4runner through the filler port, closed and tightened everything, then started it up and took it for a drive up the street to make sure it went through all the gears. When I came back home, I turned it off, jumped pin 4 to 13 again, and went to temp test mode. It gave me the D solid, so I pulled the overflow plug, and nothing came out.

So my first thought was that the filter wasn't seating properly, and the gasket wasn't sealing where fluid was going through, so air was being sucked through there. My next thought, and where I'm leaning toward now is that it was low on fluid, and still is a little low, but when I initially opened the overflow, the transmission hadn't actually pulled fluid into all the gears.

Anybody have any thoughts on the matter, perhaps your own experience and solution?

Thanks and happy driving

 

I have never pulled the pan on these but did the O ring on the original filter come down with the filter? I believe this can be an issue on most if not all automatics.

 

From the research I’ve done, changing the filter isn’t necessary. Drain and fill will suffice.

When my transmission is due for a fluid change, I’m going to let the dealership do it. The stakes are too high imho.

 

I saw the o-ring on the original filter, so yes it came out, although I had to wiggle the old filter quite a bit to get it loose.

I didn't do the research to see if the filter should have been replaced or not. I went on the assumption that filters need replacing, so I got the new one, thinking it would be something like my truck, in that it really should be replaced with the fluid. As for DIY vs paying somebody else to do it, that's a choice we each individually make. Do for your vehicle what you think is best, and I'll do for mine what I think is best. I'm mechanically inclined and in the reading up I've done so far, these transmissions hold up pretty well, almost like they are a Toyota product

 

It sounds like the filter wasn’t sealed. The filter acts as the pick up tube. Running with the filter not seated is like drink out of a straw with a hole in it. The trans was acting up because it was getting staved for fluid.

 

Did you fill it up and drive it againyet? Just curious if you did and if that improved with it at the right level.

Just guessing, I dont think it was insufficient cycling through the gears. It sounds like you took your time with that. I do wonder about that filter situation though, but I dont know how it's mounted or how it could be causing a problem. But I would peg it as a suspect. Do you still have the old filter?

At least you know it’s low. That by itself is reason for the problem. Maybe you “misinterpreted’ the drip?

please report back if you figure this out. Ill probably doing a drain/refill this year at some point.

 

That was my thought. The original filter seemed very well stuck in place when I pulled the bolts out. I had to fight it to get it loose. In putting the new one filter in, I put a little trans fluid on the ring to help it slide in better, same as using oil on the gasket when replacing the engine oil.

I did the initial change, had issues, messed with it more and added more, but it was still low. I've got to get more fluid to do it right still. Wife and I drove it yesterday after all that, and it was doing better, but I still plan to get more.

I still have the old filter, currently in the garbage can. The old filter has an actual o-ring, while the new filter (Wix) seemed more like a flap type thing.

 

The filter is definitely to be replaced when you drop the pan. It tends to look pretty clean but when you look at the phin from the old to new one, there is definitely metallic debris that compromises the flow over time. You did well.

As slopemaster mentioned there is too much at risk for me, so being the punk B*** chicken that I am, I let the dealer handle it.

Here is a video that can help you do a re-cap:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3H9JGg_rF0



Now if you REALLY want to understand whats happening, the Car Care Nut as usual breaks it down marvelously:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRxSu4-4ojo



hope this helps

 

The filter on both my '08 and '20 are just metal screens. Did yours have an actual filter?

 

That metal screen is the actual filter. You can buy the screen.



Part # 35330-60050

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-transmission-filter-3533060050

Thats what u need to replace

 

Yes, I know it's the actual filter. I'm questioning the need to replace it when most people simply clean it and reinstall.

 

I understand, I just dont know how you can clean it effectively when the screen has areas that are totally inaccessable.

My brother is so paranoid he actually engraves his filter with a random letter and ask the tech to give it back to him in a ziplock bag to make sure they properly did the service

Then again, so many people out there screwing you over u know?

 

K-Paul,

Thanks for the Car Care Nut video. I watched it in the past and that’s why when the time comes, I will pay to get it done by a Toyota mechanic.

I’ve been a mechanic most of my life and I’ve learned to accept my limitations. I’d rather spend a couple hundred bucks than risk jacking up my transmission.

 

Same. Ive spent way too much money on my ride to mess it up on a fluid change. And of all things, the transmission is NOT the part you want to mess up.

Plus, im sure that much like many of us, you DIY A ton of other stuff. I've saved so much money doing stuff on my own that it doesn't bother my conscience to shell out and let somebody else do it.

 

I changed mine at 192k after buying with 169k. It had a factory 120k history but you can't trust everyone nowadays. I heard the tales. I was already having torque converter shutter and shift confusion. I bought a 5 liter breaker, drained and measured. Worst transmission fluid I have ever seen in my life. Brown, dirty burnt with viscosity of water. I couldn't put that back in there problems or not. Added same amount of Toyota WS and works better than ever. I am going to put a big trans cooler on to eliminate that ever happening again and I do everything every 90k and keep on driving. Only limited by the number of gas stations I can buy. But not parts. Toyota pans are held on by FIPG concrete gasket and are no supposed to be serviced actually. Just drain and fill as scheduled. Anything on a Toyota to be serviced with have a reusable metal gasket or RTV. I worked for Toyota and we never removed pan on regular service vehicle. Never saw a transmission replaced while working there for years. Most 4runners were still running and never changed T4. We were actual honest dealership service I can say. Just change everything every 90-100k and your golden. That's what their reputation is built on. It will last if you don't do much of anything anyway. Personally it's a lifetime purchase for me. There's where the value is. Paid for and still not needing anything. Starts everyday. 193k now and not an oil leak of any kind any where except Xreas which is apparently common but still work. Bilsteins on standby.

 

I saved my transmission grit if it starts slipping. I smell a little fluid smell but it will be the 4th and 5th overdrive that will probably go out since their small bands are meant to pull like 1,2,3 clutches. I use manual auto 4th around town without it affecting mileage plus better shift a response from suspension. I wish they had put 4:33s and a 6 or 8 speed and high 20s would be possible. All about the size of your CO2 pump instead of milage now. I would say 5th gen will hold value a long time. If you want to tow a home buy a TRD pro Sequoia otherwise carry a tent. I bought a sound system with a 4 runner around it and I hate 3rd row killing space.

 

I have seen transmission fluid never changed and it not stop up a filter. There's a reason it's a screen and not a filter. Toyota isn't used to trans problems. 4runner parts from Toyota are Japanese made so if first lasts 300 or 400k don't buy Dorman. Beck-Arnely are pretty good for what you can't get easy but Toyota parts are so over engineered that if you buy a 2nd or 3rd year of a new generation they will have engineered the problem out of it. I never buy first year anything especially with a bunch of technology. Less is less problems with more buttons.

 

I plan on doing drain and refill every 30,000 miles but never dropping the pan. I already used the OBD jumper method and “D” flashing light to properly check the level when new. I reinstalled the overflow plug fairly quickly when the fluid stream went from solid to starting to “gulp”. Now that I verified it’s filled properly from factory (mine was actually about 1 quart low), I will measure what I drain out and replace the exact same volume. I will drain the fluid cold ( having let the 4R sit over night) and replace the fluid with room temperature fluid. That way I don’t introduce any density difference volume discrepancies.

 

If you own from new and know the history a simple drain and refill will suffice. No need to flush completely and remove the pan to change the strainer. It's not a filter. A partial fliud change will restore the friction properties without removing all the suspended clutch debris if done on a constant basis from new. I do all our Toyotas at every 60,000 km changing less than half the fluid and all is good. And yes I am a certified auto mechanic.

 

Watch Faye Hadley from All Girls Garage on YouTube if you are into Toyota or Car Care Nut on there also. I ordered a 5 liter beaker from Amazon and it's biggest and big enough and I measured 3.5 quarts or a little more coming out after driving, cooling to touch. I could only get about 2.5 back, started, run through gears, went back and put another half quart in and probably could have more but overfill is worse. If you use a dealer, establish a relationship if you can see the work being done. I don't think everyone is as honest as we were working there and we were the cheapest. We didn't sell unnecessary stuff because we had timing belts. A lot of egos because the way Toyota is engineered for best sales plus it's commission based so they depend on selling you something to keep their standard of living up. Mostly a few high paid ASE techs and low rent hustlers trying to turn as much as fast as possible regardless of skipping something. If everyone skips it you have paid for nothing. I don't really like Ford or Chevy mechanics working on mine without supervision because they like to over tighten. There's a reason metric fine threads don't fall out and Toyota with headers will never need header bolts retightened because no vibration. I'm 60 and I can't hardly do anything I used to without a rack but I like being responsible for screwing it instead of the bad taste of paying someone to screw it because of lack of care, detail and attention. Everything meant to be serviced is pretty easy to get to that has to be.

 

They recommend 60k at the least for WS and 30k for T4. Watch Car Care Nut on YouTube or Faye Hadley. Changed my used one at 192k and I was warned against it but it was so bad and no viscosity. I saved some grit in case it slips but I couldn't see how anything that bad was good for it lasting. You can over maintain a 4 runner and it won't make any difference. Do everything at 90-100k and you will do that the rest your life. They will do 300k not doing anything, although my plugs had about a . 75 gap and ran fine. Mine had maintenance history to buy it's a lie. Fluid and filters and Toyota wiper. Still the best. A New York TV station even said so. I did like inserts better but they have to make something expensive and to throw away. I might could find an older set if they even sell them now but more money for Toyota parts instead of aftermarket parts from somewhere else. Easy for educated people to install. I had two different high dollar sets of aftermarket skipping across mine until I bought Toyota and no problems now.

 

Please why it's $15-20 a quart. Aisin is Toyota parts to. Watch for counterfeit parts on Amazon and eBay. They look real until your valve cover gaskets melt when oil hits them. Don't replace axles over boots, rebuild kit from Toyota. That Chinese or Mexican replacement isn't as good. If they are just leaking, use a grease gun with correct synthetic lithium grease, add some to boot and replace clamp. If boot isn't torn that's what is leaking. A little bit of fluid goes a long way. If something is really bad on a Toyota you will hear it before it falls off. Dealers lost timing belts and replaced with transmission service and they want to sell you things because that's how they get paid. I called 3 different dealerships in an hour drive or so away and for drain and fill one was $300 by Lexus dealership in Knoxville, Cookeville was $160-200 and my old dealer was $106 bucks. Still cheaper and not selling a flush that's unnecessary except to make you feel better. Just drain and fill every 60k-100k if you are really worried but I do mine myself if I can still because we that have worked there and driven them know. I would probably be driving my 97 but I seen to total them around 300k but I used to drive 40k a year just to work so l learned a lot about tires and what I like. The Borla touring exhaust is nice if you don't want to be racing people that don't understand. I had the money to buy a new one but I bought a 2013 which was rated least trouble free of 5th generation. This one should last me the rest of my life until they quit making factory parts after 20 years. There's a lot of these. I think parts will be available for a while after the 20 year mark if any of us are here anyway. Should hold value. I wanted an off road but I bought a limited built around a sound system. Really nice but I wish I had bought a nice SR5 if I am going to change things eventually. 3rd row seats don't lay flat and kills hauling, sleeping, petting dog between your seats because he can't get there. I thought about taking out and getting a roll out platform since I don't haul anyone buy non scary old hitch hikers I think I can whip or out gun as last resort. Don't replace starters, rebuild. It's usually what used to be a $20 set of contacts. You can get it rebuilt cheaper even if it is same price, it can be done in a hour, so don't overpay. Look for an honest dealership more than anything. These young people don't understand pride in doing a quality job but that's everyone anymore. Never seen a universal joint replaced before working there at any mileage. I don't think the water pump is serviceable with the timing chains now. Timing chains aren't meant to be replaced really. Even with wear the computer will constantly adjust it. Drain and fill everything at 90k and spark plugs and filters are more often and wear items depending on driving style. I put powerstop Z36 drilled and slotted rotors on mine and it is way better. No rotor warp after 4 or 5 oh shite stops. With all wheel drive it has saved my butt and it will lock up and rubber is your only limiting factor. No nose dive from EBD assist but tears seem to be wearing faster than front. More weight in rear would probably help that after computer picks the pitch and yaw up from the system. I like the way you can control the transmission with gas pedal application and pedal commander takes the slug away, but don't run in sport or sport plus. I use City setting. I don't know if you are familiar with 4runners but I know from dealership and experience what not to waste money on. If you service regular intervals you shouldn't need any unnecessary stuff. I use K&N filter and cabin air filter so I don't have to buy just clean. If skunks and farts bother you get a quality charcoal cabin. I appreciate skunks to keep my senses alive and only my farts but I have warning so. I don't think my transmission fluid was ever changed until I did at 192k. I never seen anything look that bad, this one was a Arizona Texas 4runner so I wasn't afraid of highway miles and I just don't want to pay $50k for something I will eventually wreck. Peeled the front bumper cover off being mesmerized by backup camera because I never had that. I saw a 2009 4runner go everywhere a new $50k TRD pro go. I guess the computer could be nice to crawl through mud but I was doing that with Dodge Ram chargers in the 80s and 90s until I bought my first Toyota before going to work there. Most that maintenance stuff is hipe because it's fluids and filters now. Spark plugs only real maintenance and they use reusable metal gaskets on that, the intake. I had a brake piston pop out accidentally hit pedal with it off putting on Powerstop rotors and we used a full pick so you don't tear the seal to get it restarted and no problems, however if you replace rotors the retainer for parking brake shoes can come off and it took two of us and 5 hands and 30 minutes of cussing to get it back on. I think it's a retainer issue. There's probably some special tool or we just panicked and weren't holding out mouths right. I think 2014 was beginning of ULEV and more technology because I see more problems with some newer ones. I still have to get the manual out to know how to work something that doesn't have auto on it. You can drive at very low speed on pavement with the system because from and rear have same gear ratio unlike a lot of domestic that have one extra tooth in front to pull rear with less traction. I know I can go anywhere I want to and a few I don't need with a slight lift and good tires and not have to be working on it through the week. I have always been a Mopar man but Toyota is what to drive the wheels off of. I had a hemi RAM and I could get 25mpg on hwy and it had usual Dodge transmission until they finally decided to build an 8 speed that lasts. Toyota never had transmission problems. I have not got hatch closed all the way and it will do funky things that make you want to go to dealer. If everyone sit down and read the owner's manual once, it is probably simple otherwise it won't be running. I think my limited is a Lexus GX with fewer buttons but I drive mostly on highway now and not as much as all retired. I think I will collect factory rebuild CV boot kits and a few things I see replaced more regularly to have because in 10 years it will be between a car payment or buying gas. I can build a place for me to live for today's prices and they aren't going down. The new 4 runner will be based on the mini Land cruiser and GX platform to cut costs and streamline production. Go to Automotivepress on YouTube and the guy is a Toyota engineer who retired from the Lexus plant they are built and everyone has at the least 25+ years experience. I don't want adaptive cruise or pedestrian braking. It's my job to pay attention and if you have to replace that stuff it can be pricey. You can find honest Toyota parts from online dealerships that really want to compete with aftermarket replacements. Everything for 4runner is made in Japan and they have best quality control. Just a 1 or 2 % difference in parts quality makes a big difference in a high production item. Fewer failures overall for better quality. I think Ford does a pretty good job and a few Fiat Chrysler things I would consider with V8 but not their 6s and 4s so much. Lots of problems. Domestic has lots of problems they won't admit to or even adress in public but when Toyota does they start reengineering. Everything should last life of vehicle to. Change your brake fluid every 100-200k. I'm going to Dot 5-6 for traction control and better heat control. Once you get new fluid in whole system and not let air in you should only have to suck reservoir dry and top off. If you did nothing you would go 300-400k. I know people with 440k and just maintenance. I'm sure new 4runner will be neat and hybrid will be better for towing especially low end and mileage. V-6 is the next V8 and that will be going away to. I wouldn't tow anything more than 3600lbs. The brake upgrade helps with everything. I like feeling the amount of pressure I have on the pad though the pedal so I can manipulate better than a hold on and scream cause you know you ain't stopping. Hated that and I had the rotors on my 97,98,01,06 Ram and they have saved me in the Ram to when you thought you could take a Xanax and make it home before it kicks in and you really can't no matter how well you think you are doing. That's another life lesson. With a 4runner you are not limited to being trapped in drive through, stopped interstate as long as you can climb, crawl or otherwise extra the area of operations. Been there done that. AWD is nice and I get decent mileage for a 3 ton refrigerator but hey. I have read the newer ones get worse than older but new highlander with 4 cylinder gets worse than older V6 Highlander. I know it's about the size of your CO2 pump now and not mileage, but I think this generation with a 6 or 8 speed and 4:33 to 4:56 gears would get higher 20s from my experience. I got 24 mpg in my 97 with headers and mods. If you are going to tow and I had a newer 4 runner I would supercharge if you got 50k another 7k with make it a really faster 4runner. I would consider even putting one on mine with even 200k on it but you can create more problems with more power but you can do at home with instructions or probably pay an extra $8 hours labor or more depending on honesty. I get good performance from mine with K&N filter in factory box, Jet performance MAF sensor, because one of few mods you can buy and do easily. I have a Borla touring exhaust from Amazon because it was $700 versus TRD $1100 and it's pretty and shiny stainless steel. Until hot, cold hot, cold and water hot it and they all look about the same. Stainless steel doesn't rust through but 409 and 304 will get a surface tarnish and rust. I guess it has to stay bendable although the TRD exhaust doesn't tarnish as much I still have a million miles warranty. Anyway I wasn't sure if you knew much about 4runners and I am old alone and nobody to talk to so I am passing on what I have learned from experience of being ripped by a dealer and if you have an issue close to warranty time get it documented so they can't delete the records and claim ignorance because an honest dealership that you get serviced regularly should be doing the job first and numbers later. I never sold anything dishonest just changing oil and tires. Try to get a tech that has been working on Toyota and drives them and get your old parts back in the box if it needs to be replaced and compare to the real thing in the parts department. They won't mind. They need to know you know what you are doing otherwise they will sell you something so they can work on it. Toyota just needs a few computer experts now and everyone else is a parts changer and that can be iffy depending on the mechanic. I'm a mechanic and not really a tech but Toyota is so simple. Only people who are really trusting and don't have the bad taste of being screwed still with them yet or someone who just doesn't know. You can change your fluid at 60k and it is fine but earlier than 30k is not recommended. I have biggest transmission fluid coolers in the world for mine then it will stay pretty and red for a really long time. I use Mobil 1 75w90 synthetic gear oil in my diffs and transfer. It's good for 500k and I change Mobil 1 0W20 every 10k with a Toyota filter or more or less. This 4.0 holds 7 quarts which flows through a water cooled oil cooler above the filter housing. I just got some that says 20k which really doesn't scare me but I would change filter. Use Toyota parts or a Wix EXP filter is as good I think. I have never had any oil usage, not even a valve cover leak on the engine yet. Don't replace factory plastic filter housing with metal one. It's plastic because it doesn't hold heat and plastic and aluminum threads don't need to be tightened except as far as it will go until the O ring is seated. Shouldn't need a breaker bar or log rachet I don't know why people replace those. If you manage to tear it off you were already screwed because you started and will be towed home anyway.Leather seat used to tear about 175k from dragging your ass in and out. I didn't care for 4 generation 4 runner. Interior looked cheap like first generation tundra rat fur I had in my 2000 Tundra granted the Japanese cloth used to hold up best if you took care of it a little bit. Anyway gey married young and have kids so unlike me when you get old you will have a friend, partner and hopefully grandkids. That's what the Bible intended for us so hopefully are family will care for us in old age. Sadly my bloodline stops with me because I have been 60 now acting 29 still and didn't heed what I had learned as a child in church and for the Word of God. Sorry you are the recipient of this mess. I can't sleep as a lot of vets and I am passing on what I know and not guessing. I didn't proof read this and probably repeat same thing twice but any questions you really want to know Google it because someone from Canada or somewhere has had the problem and posted on YouTube. Ask anything anytime if I don't know I will ask. The factory skid plate on mine has two bolts left in it for 5 minutes oil change places. A person doesn't need to tighten the bolts with more than a 3/8ths battery impact really. If you can't disassemble a 4 runner completely with 6,8,10,12,14,17,19,21,24 socket and a 450lb impact you need to work on heavy equipment. I know I always wanted the biggest impact too but you will use smaller stuff more. No vibration and doesn't need to be that tight in a tank.

 

I think if you drive it and let it sit you won't get as much out as letting it take time to drain through the pan. A lot of times with aftermarket replacements parts you can create more than you fixed over doing it. Only way I would do that is don't trust anyone but yourself regardless of what you pay for. I think a flush on mine would probably make it worse. I got about 3.6 out of mine and put 2.5 to 3 in before it ran out the fill plug so I started and filled cooler and lines and put about another half quart in and I had read 2.5 quarts to drain and fill and my old dealership was cheapest at $106 but it wasn't in a rich area either. Another price factor. I could order parts cheaper shipped from a Michigan dealership than a local one. I guess more domestic and location plus amount of work dictates a lot. That tells me that he's getting paid an hour something that he can do with a rack in 30 minutes and that's with fluid and they have an area you can watch and talk to a tech. I went to a Dodge dealership and they didn't want me talking to the techs. It was warranty airbag or something but I want to know who is doing my work and if you find a honest tech then request him by appointment so you know. Still get your old parts back. Shouldn't be a problem just know what you are looking for and at. The only thing I never understood was employees and some customers that needed help the most , they would take all their money and more in sales, but mayor or doctor got the best deal and service. The philosophy was if you can't make money off your friends you surely can't from your enemies but they knew they would be back time and time again to trade up and they would be constantly making money off them.

 

Shouldn't need a screen ever. Never ever with regular maintenance and it it's stopped up you are probably screwed already unless you can live with 3 or 4 gears because it will be the overdrive bands and not 1,2,3 clutches. That's why I use 4th manual around town. It wants to run away at 35-40mph coasting and it saves breaks. If you have oversized tires I would definitely use 4th manual, just pull towards you for manual electrical shift if you want. It will probably feel like 5th in 4th manual with oversized tires and you will be going about same rpm and speedometer will be off.

 

I'm limited too at my age even though I am limited by funds. The mechanics I trust wanted to argue about dropping my pan , but we never did with at Toyota and especially on regular service. My fluid was absolutely like brown dirty burnt, though not as bad as some burnt fluid. Which mine was used but the history year and options were what I wanted in a used 4 runner. I see everyone driving off road models because that's the biggest profit margin for people who think they are going a little further than my limited but except for rock faces or boulders I can't drive over and around, I'm not going there because I don't want to be replacing unnecessary things from a moment of panic. Carry a chainsaw, battery or gas, a Milwaukee 18V inflator, supposed to do 8 - 33x 12.50s on one battery but having any inflator and plug kit can save you in a pinch. I carry a Milwaukee 18V compact impact. It's rated 650lbs but it's more than you need for lug nuts on med. High is okay but I always snugged them down so they seat on wheel register first or you will have something coming off right on high before myself and then 2 seconds on each should hold everything on. You can charge your batteries in the back while you are running. With the new hybrid 4 runner it might be kind of like a Ford but I don't think it will run a house. I could have bought a 2009 Lexus Rx 450h hybrid but a replacement battery when you can find a decent brand if rebuilt was $2k for a Dorman on Rock auto when they had one. I think all hybrid and electric should use the same battery and size to make integration and exchange cheaper faster easier like they are doing in India in tuck tucks. No charging just battery change stations. I guess we will have to wait and buy it from China unfortunately. All I been driving for 30 years are 4 runners and a brief 2006 Corolla stint. Paid a $1000 had to fix a bad brake line and 42mpg, brake pads and cheap rotors and I sold it 3 years and about 400-500 k with original clutch and everything and sold it for a $1000k again. Tried to buy it back today and they won't sell it back to me. Didn't care for stick at my age but it was 2 finger shifting and at 40-45 would pull in 5th. Heater always hot, AC always cold but it did leak when you didn't understand why or how but a little charge and it was fine for about once a year. Supposed to run AC in hot weather, however I think the defroster might count, to keep seals in AC lubricated. Use 4wheel system once a year to keep seals lubed on two and four wheel drive. I know the 2001 I bought a few years ago I changed the fluid and I am assuming the guy I bought it from and it went out a couple months later. With the fluid in mine I don't see how it wasn't. If I see any slippage I think I will put a hand full of grit in it so it will feel normal. Mine shows a 120k maintenance which besides filters is about all you should need but they didn't do that or it was a lie. Probably a salesman limited edition from Arizona and Texas with highway miles. For 169k I paid almost $24k out the door but super clean and loaded. My really good 4runner insurance is cheaper than basic liability on my Corolla. Only thing is I guess how well the box frame holds up in a crash or welded steel and beer can uniboxes. I want an off road model but I didn't see 15k extra for something that I will be changing or replacing a few things that mine pretty much do in auto. Then there's the A Trac. Pretty sweet. Always want something that might make it on ice. Two inches of snow make the hillbillies like me in these hills and hollows hard to go it you don't know how to drive. Getting a license doesn't always mean. You can buy them now. Everytime I was stuck or almost stuck it was because someone thinks a 4wd can go and drive 55mph on snow and ice and you can for a while until you meet someone in middle of the road and they realize anti lock brakes don't really work and they don't know how to anticipate their stops on a road they drive everyday and use manual shift to stop on snow and ice. As much as you can. People don't pay attention driving. To much entertainment when you need to be paying for to driving. Another lesson learned the hard way and to read side effects of what the VA prescribed. According to them everything is in your head and they push anti depressants, multiple kinds for everything. Gave me some for sleep because of the side effects being drowsiness but didn't mention side effects even at low dose until my pencil lost it's lead at 58 and I knew that wasn't right. So don't trust anyone especially someone with a college education BS. All they know is what someone else told them and unless you see it with your eyes, a grain of doubt doesn't hurt.

 

All I can say is wow.