Tires cupping on front inside tread

Specifics:
22 ORP
Added at less than 500 miles:
Method 703 Wheels
Nitto Ridge Grapplers (stock size)
Upgraded suspension (Blistein)
New UCAs (JBA)
Alignment after work yielded good results
Tracks and drive straight
Tires well balanced
Run at 35psi cold
Current mileage:11150

First rotation at 5k and rotated the other day when the tech noticed slight cupping.
Wanted to know if anyone had any idea why I would be seeing cupping this early.
I have read that it could be a number of reasons (tire pressure, alignment, worn suspension parts, rotation needed. etc) but I obviously dont think I have any of these.

I have heard that new suspensions "settle". Could it be out of alignment because of this already?
I recently started going into office more often, so I am highway driving more, and have noticed more off road tire "noise". Almost like I can hear the tread blocks. Tires used to be very quiet. I know off road tires are noisier.....

I have also read that off road tires, when driven on pavement regularly, are subject to this kind of wear and should be rotated religiously every 5k miles.

Could it be the wider Method wheels? 17X8.5 0 offset?

I find this odd so early and also odd that its on the inside tread only.

Appreciate all thoughts and ideas. Thanks in advance.

 

A few things that I would check. The bad thing is that once the tires are cupped, there is no way to fix them.

1 - Double check the alignment specs. If you post them here, members will be able to help.
2 - Check the tire balance again. Shops will say they are in spec but they just get them as close as they can.
3 - Check and make sure that all of the suspension/control arm bolts have been torqued properly. Shops will not torque them correctly or while they are under load. Using an impact gun is not the proper way to torque.
4 - Check and make sure that all of the suspension bushings are ok and were not damaged during installation.
5 - Make sure that your wheels are running a hub-centric ring if needed, and that you are using the correct lug nuts.

 

My 2020 gets some cupping on the inside fronts. It has since new and currently has 80k miles. All stock and alignment never checked.

 

Agreed with all of this.

Except..

Back when I had my Tacoma, a friend of mine pointed out that my new-ish tires were cupping. This is when I started rotating my tires. Another 30,000 miles or so after that I traded in that Tacoma, and the used car guy actually commented on how good of shape the tires were in. In. I think the fact that I rotate in a way that changes the direction of rotation every time helps with this.

 

Thanks Steelevo (and to all for your replies). Please see responses below.

1 - Double check the alignment specs. If you post them here, members will be able to help.
Taking in to get specs re-checked. When I had alignment performed after suspension work, I literally witnessed and worked with the alignment tech for nearly 3 hours to get great readings. He was extremely detailed. HOWEVER, the only thing I didnt witness was watching that all bolts were torqued to spec.
Post alignment specs were very good based on what I have researched. I will dig up the final report and share here soon. During my discussions with JBA post alignment, I shared the results with one of their techs and he said it was a very good alignment.

2 - Check the tire balance again. Shops will say they are in spec but they just get them as close as they can.
Road force balanced. Highly confident this was done well. Very reputable shop. Zero shake during all speed ranges.

3 - Check and make sure that all of the suspension/control arm bolts have been torqued properly. Shops will not torque them correctly or while they are under load. Using an impact gun is not the proper way to torque.
This I cannot verify as I did not witness. Can you specify which suspension bolts should be checked? I install the UCAs myself and was completely sure I torqued all to spec 100%. I cant speak to strut assembly, nor LCA as I had someone do that work. Both from reputable shops.
I plan on re-checking all bolts myself again. Question though; if something isnt tightened to spec, should I have vehicle realigned as something may have shifted out of spec?

4 - Check and make sure that all of the suspension bushings are ok and were not damaged during installation.
Apologies - which bushing would I check? What would I be looking for? Top hat bushing is in perfect condition and not over-torqued or bulging.

5 - Make sure that your wheels are running a hub-centric ring if needed, and that you are using the correct lug nuts.
Wheels did come with plastic hub centric rings, but Method and the shop that installed the shocks and mounted/balanced the tires and wheels indicated they were not needed. I am using the lug nuts provided by Method that were specific to wheel and vehicle.

I should say I rotated only front to back at 5k myself. I know sometimes shops cross rotate (they did this time).

Anyone have any other feedback?

Again, thanks in advance to all.

 

Update: totally thrown for a loop.

Took my truck to the same shop and met with my contact there (He is a master mechanic and the shop foreman).
First image is my alignment done about a year ago right after I installed UCAs. Second image shows my readings for today pre and post alignment.
I have no idea how the alignment got so out of whack. I have very limited miles (less than 10k) since that alignment and most of those have been in the last 6 months as I have started driving more highway miles.
Never hit anything hard. And as stated, nothing out of whack or worn (that neither he nor I can see).

After the alignment last year, I did check all torque for the UCA work I did, but havent since then. Are there any other items to check to make sure all is tight?

He did mention that the JBL UCA, although providing more caster, was a limiting factor and that I may want to consider getting an SPC UCA that allows more/more adjustability.

Anyone have any ideas to chase down? Thanks in advance.