Suspension-related hardware

Hello all, apologies in advance if this has already been asked - but my search yielded no results...

I'm currently waiting on my suspension parts to arrive/ship - Bilstein 5100s front and rear with OME 881s and 890s. As always, PB Blaster is the first step in any prep work for any job on my old rusty boi and I'll start coating everything pertinent basically on a daily basis as soon as I get my shipping notification in preparation for the install.

I'll have some help from a friend installing the new components, I'm just concerned about breaking a bolt somewhere along the way and then having to source some new hardware to finish the job.

Would I be best off trying to salvage any hardware I can, or should I replace it all along with the suspension components? Has anyone with an older 3rd Gen already encountered this, and if so would anyone happen to be able to provide a full hardware list for replacement?

Thanks in advance!

 

I can't tell you what you'll need, but I'd go ahead and order new hardware, except for anything outlandishly expensive. YMMV, but I always seem to end up breaking/cutting something that I can't get at the local hardware store. And don't forget the anti-seize!

Are there good parts books available for the 4Runner? I have one for my old, British rust bucket that lists part numbers for every single nut, bolt, and screw on the car. I haven't had my 4Runner long enough to go looking for one.

 

Do you live in the rust belt? May need a torch if u do. Also some stripped bolt extractors might be needed. Its Not really nessasry but if u need to replace, go OEM

Get these and just pre assemble your front shocks already.
Did you do LBJ already? If not, u want to.. trust me. Get OEM. Don't get anything but OEM.
Right: https://www.oempartsource.com/oem-p...ydW5uZXImeT0xOTk3JnQ9YmFzZSZlPTItN2wtbDQtZ2Fz

Left: https://www.oempartsource.com/oem-p...ydW5uZXImeT0xOTk3JnQ9YmFzZSZlPTItN2wtbDQtZ2Fz

if doing Lowe ball joint, replace the 8 bolts (4 each side) sometimes the old ones sheer off, round out, ect. Best to replace them: https://www.oempartsource.com/oem-parts/toyota-bolt-flange-9008010066?c=cT05MDEwNS0xMDQwNg==


AlsO buy this and pre assemble the FRONT shock. Screw using the stock one since it's probably dead by now
front shock mount x2 (1 each side)

$29 Monroe Shocks & Struts Strut-Mate 904900 Suspension Strut Mount

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000JWQJK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_PXX0K8YNY1MKWK056KH8

are you taking off the LCA for any reason. If so you prob need new alingment cams and bolts cus the old ones are seized and you need to cut them out. Ebay has good used sock sets (both sides) for 40 or 50 bucks. Or u can use SPC or MOOG for market ones. Up to u. I like stock ones cus they seem stronger. If using stock ones, make sure to antiseize the shit out of the bolt (NOT THE TREADS BUT THE SMOOTH BOLT PART) and the inner cam sleeve. Helps prevent them form seizing again. The moog are greasablr and the SPC have a inner Teflon sleeve to prevent seizing. Still anti seize the SPC bolt if I were u

These are Optional. Cheap enough to maybe just replace cus he is a RuStY bOi:

Front lower shock bolt with washerx2 (1 each side) : https://www.oempartsource.com/oem-parts/toyota-mount-bolt-9008011283?c=Zz1mcm9udC1zdXNwZW5zaW9uJnM9c3VzcGVuc2lvbi1jb21wb25lbnRzJmw9NyZuPVNlYXJjaCBSZXN1bHRzJmE9dG95b3RhJm89NHJ1bm5lciZ5PTE5OTcmdD1iYXNlJmU9Mi03bC1sNC1nYXM=
Nut should be reusable

Rear shock bolt with washer x2 (1 each side): https://www.oempartsource.com/oem-parts/toyota-bolt-w-washer-91619g1222
Nut is welded to frame

I would antiseize the lower shock mounting bolts for front and rear (NOT THE TREADS BUT THE SMOOTH BOLT PART). Helps them from seizing in future.
Remember, torque shit correctly. If u need torque specs DM me. Also blue or red lock tite is your friend with suspension. Always...
All bolt threads need lock tite lol.

Any other questing lmk

 

Wow thank you so much, this is super helpful.

I'm in the South, BUT yeah it came from St. Louis and came salty.

I have OEM LBJs just waiting to go on... should I take care of that beforehand?

Luckily my front shocks are coming preassembled, and I went with Freedom Offroad UCAs.

I don't think we'll be removing the LCAs either, but good to know.

 

The LBJ, If you got your friend helping you, just to them together. Takes an extra 15 to 30 mind a side since you got everything else taken apart. ALSO mark the alingmnrt cams with a paint pen. Draw a straight line on the cam to the frame.. just a reference mark so if you end up having to loosen them to get the shock mounted,u can get your alingment pretty close until you get it done professionally. Also, mark all the bolts and nuts with the same paint pen after Torque. Just a reference mark again from bolt/Nut to frame. Let's you see if they came loose over time just by looking and That way you know u did them so don't second guess lol. U got torque specs?

Freedom offroad UCA? lmk what u think. Was always hesitant to go with them cus they were cheap. Not saying bad, just very hesitant. If they work well for you, maybe I'll try them on next rig I built. I have SPC on all 5 of the tacoma/4 runners I run. Got them for super deals.

 

Man, I can't thank you enough!

I don't have the torque specs. If you could point me in the right direction that would be awesome.

I really took my time with this purchase overall and researched a lot of FO's UCA reviews, and I feel pretty confident about them. I'm not too hard on my rig so I think they'll be perfect for me and my wheeling. I'll definitely let you know my thoughts initially, and after some usage.

 

Front:

 

Rear:

 

DM me your email address. I send you something you will love tomorrow

 

Oh also, I would pick up an extra set of those freedom ball joints when time and money allows. Just in case they aren't around later when u need them. Just because they are a more unknown/unproven company, u don't wanna be left with something u can't use cus they aren't around anymore

 

That thought crossed my mind when I went with them, so I'll definitely plan on that