Starter Removal on Toyota 4Runner - The Easy Way

My car is getting close to celebrating 200k anniversary and since I like to do long trips, I decided to rebuild the starter. There are plenty of videos online on how to rebuild Denso starters, and what parts are necessary for this. What was missing from all the information that I could gather is how to remove the starter in a hustle-free manner.

Here are a few videos that I used to guide me in the right direction.

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrnNgd-rXts
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2A3mjWpsQR0

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After an hour of trying these methods, I gave up.



This little guy saved the day.



Both of the bolts that hold the starter in place are 14mm. I used 14mm 3/8" short socket attached to a small 3/8" ratchet. For extension I used 14 mm deep impact socket.



The tool reaches both of the bolts and gives you plenty of space for movement.



Once the tool is in place, all you have to do is push on it with force to undo the bolts. 14mm deep impact socket gives you plenty of leverage to do that.

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Toyota 28235-55050 Plunger

• Denso Plunger use on 0.8KW 1.0kW, 1.2kW, 1.4kW, 1.6kW, 2.0kW OSGR Starters
• 8mm Hole
• 34.8 mm solenoid moveable plunger disc.
• The movable plunger is 96.7 mm Long.

Aftermarket Solenoid Repair Kits

• Victory Lap ND-34SOL Solenoid Repair Kit
• ATP Toyota-Denso Starter Solenoid Repair Kit 0.8 KW - 2.0KW

Greasing Points



Manual Page: 2693

• idle gear - 4
• retainer - 5
• clutch roller - 6
• steel ball
• return spring - 3

I used Moly EP grease from AutoZone. Manual calls for high temperature grease. I found it to be incompatible with plastics. Retainer is made out of plastic.

 

Great job! does Toyota starter usually fails around 200k? 300k? from my life experience with starters of internal combustion engines, usually first solenoid contacts burn out and you are right to replace solenoid repair kit, then bearings, in some cases starter winding. but why? what burns them is long cranking and having weak battery. with weak battery solenoid get engaged contacts, but battery has no power to spin engine, and those time you holding key hoping engine to start, even at battery 10v, amperage flowing thru contacts is huge and that's what burns it (and winding). new vehicles with engine start/stop features very "picky" to battery condition. engine has to start immediately, or contacts of starter's solenoid starts to burn. you have not post pictures of old solenoid contact, it would be very educational to see it's condition to judge necessity of repair, at list in your case. I personally would not do it pre-emptive and wait until starter fail, then replace with OEM starter, may be 200k, 300k, 400k ?

 

I was still debating if I even should pull out the starter. I have a second starter that I got on eBay for $50 just to mess around with. I rebuilt it completely and was planning to install it, BUT the car has rust issues. To remove anything on this car is a chore.

I like to take long distance trips, and dome suggested to take starter rebuild kit with me. That made perfect sense, but to repair starter on the road requires skills and ability to remove it. Now I have both.

I will probably keep rebuilt starter in my garage, and take starter rebuild kit with me for emergency. I know that I can undo the bolts and gain access to it if needed. I also know that I can rebuild it at a campsite.

Alternator is a different story. I know that I will not be able to rebuild it at a campsite, and these things are known to fail around 200k miles. There are a bunch of threads that point to that mileage. I just carry a spare alternator with me. I already tried to undo all the required bolts, and know that I can swap it on the trail in about an hour.

I guess this was more of an exercise in preparation, rather than preventative maintenance. Remember the 7 Ps?