Starter Clicks, No Crank

Alright, so today I changed my battery terminals and the wire from the alternator fuse to the positive terminal on my '99 cause they were all corroded. It also is now a 6g wire instead of what looks like an 8g wire. I also got a new ground wire on there. Now the truck has power everywhere, nothing doesn't work but when I turn to crank it I just get a click and nothing. Tried jumping it and same results. Everything is put back the exact way that it was before so I'm completely stumped now. Hoping that someone on here can help. Thanks in advance.

 

Do a voltage drop test and come back with a response

 

sounds like your bendix spring it's not disengaging or engaging pull the starter out take it to autozone and have it checked its free. my guess is the bendix spring.might just be your solenoid they are cheap and easy to replace. LARRY B.

 

Gently knock on the starter while someone cranks the truck. If it catches and turns over then your starter contacts are worn out.

Very easy fix after pulling the starter.

I've never heard of the spring or plunger in the starter failing, it's always worn contacts. Don't buy a new starter, just replace contacts.

 

Sounds like you/ve got a faulty connection on one of the battery cables.
A starter that just clicks is a indication that the starter is not receiving enough electrical current to do the job.
Check your new battery connections again, plus the one on the starter.
Also, put a multimeter on the positive and negative battery posts and watch it when you're trying to start the truck.
Does the voltage drop significantly?
If so, is the battery well charged?

 

If you didn't do any changes to your battery terminals or the wire from the alternator fuse, I would have directed you to the contacts on your starter. I've replaced them 3 times on my Tacoma and 4Runner. When you turn the key, this sends voltage to the starter. Inside the starter is a solenoid that drives 2 thick pieces of copper together to create continuity and your starter turns the motor. Over time, the thick copper contacts wear out. You'll notice that it'll click once or twice, and then start. As the time goes by, the contacts wear out more and you'll get more clicks before it starts. Eventually, after clicking 20 times, you're driven to fix it.

 

Have you tried to get a jump start?

 

I have a 1996 4Runner and have the same problem (I think). All electrical comes on but the starter just clicks.

My battery is about 6 months old. I don't think that is the problem. I put a new starter on it 4 days ago. It started fine for 3 days and now it is doing the same thing again.

I tracked my negative battery cable to where it bolts onto the frame, underneath the engine block. It was caked in thick oil/grease. I cleaned it off but it is a very tight connection. I can't imagine that could be the problem (?). It did crank up after I cleaned it, but the problem has been intermittent. I have a sneaking suspicion that the problem will occur again the next time I try to start it.

So..a (fairly) new battery and a brand new starter, yet it just clicks when I try to start it (intermittently).

Any suggestions?

 

JustBadLuck, do you get white/green corrosion at your terminals?

I would check your terminals at the battery. Pull it off and flex it and see if you hear it crackle inside or see lots of corrosion. Cables rot from the inside out and often you can't see it.

A click from the new starter is an indication that the circuit is not able to supply the current.

 

Thanks negusm, I do appreciate the information. The last thing I want to do is have to replace that starter again. I've done a ton of work to my 4Runner over the years, but that was by far the most aggravating job yet. Everything that the switch-out involved required two hands, but only one hand could fit...in any direction.

Anyway...I will check the cables. The terminals haven't really had time to corrode, as the battery is fairly new.

I'll keep the thread informed.

 

My key wore out after twenty years. But it was more of a lock/unlock ignition problem with getting the key out. Got a new key cut at the dealer and good to go....

 

I have this very same problem and I'm at a point I can't figure it out. I installed a brand new starter and new starter relay, I checked the battery and it's 12.14 volts, no corrosion and brand new terminals. I even charged it and jumped it with another 4 runner and it still just clicked no crank and no start, I don't know what else to check. JustBadLuck, we're you able to figure it out? Or anyone can assist? I'll take any suggestions right now. Thank you for the advice

 

??

 

I just paid $400 for a new starter install. Non OEM, I got 15 years out of my last non OEM. It’s tricky to install.

 

I sprayed a bunch of WD-40 in the key hole? Didn’t seem to affect it.

 

I am literally going through the same nightmare right now. I’ve got nothing past accessory. Just pulled the battery cables. I’ve gone down the list and now it’s onto wiring.

 

Having a similar issue with my 94 3.0

I just finished a complete rebuild of the engine, new crank, one new rod, all new gaskets and seals, and reloomed the wiring harness (it looks great). But I have gotten to the point where I can try to crank her over for the first time in months and I get nothing past accessory power. I have removed and verified start relay is good, I have cleaned off terminals on for battery, cleaned off terminal on starter, so lost. Need to get this thing on the road and feel like I am going to be stuck for a while on this. Any advise is welcomed!
Thx

 

Well...did you test the starter?

Put car in NUETRAL or PARK. Put ebrake FULL on. CHOCK the wheels. Take a jumper and go straight from the positive battery post to the positive starter terminal and see if the starter tries to turn over the engine. If it does, your starter relay probably isn't getting activated.

 

Yep, all to familiar. Test the battery and then the starter relay. Any power at the starter solenoid? Lightly tap on that starter while you are down there. Play the park to neutral to park key jam game, then go buy a neutral safety switch and just replace it cuz that’s probably what’s wrong with it.

 

I have a receipt where the previous owner purchased a second key, but there is no second key to be found! And he's passed so I can't ask him. Is a worn out key something that just happens?

 

Yes, but it’s more “you can’t get the key out off ignition”. Starts hanging up.

 

I know pop a lock has tried to sell me a key twice when I got locked out of my f150. 300 bucks for that key.